Clark C20 forklift starting issues

[Hackshaq]

I have a Clark C20 forklift serial number C2038E1238 from Oct 1958. The forklift is not currently starting and I am hoping that someone can help me figure out why. Thanks in advance.

A little history. I recently purchased it and when I got it, it was Running but not running very well. The engine had a strong smell of leaking propane, and needed the starter replaced. I have since had the starter rebuilt and it runs strong now. I have also replaced the fuel lock off, fuel filter, and cleaned the vaporizer. When I had the vaporizer open I checked for issues with the diaphragm and anything else I could see but everything looked good. I have not touched the carb since the tuck last ran.

The issue I’m currently having is that the forklift starter is running and in gauging the fly wheel but the engine is not even attempting to start. I am assuming that the engine is not getting any fuel but I do not know why. I have checked and the fuel lock off solenoid is engaging when I turn the key. I know that fuel in making all the way to the vaporizer as soap bubbles were showing up there until I tightened things down better. I have checked and the distributor cap is getting power, so I should have spark. Any direction that I should look would help a lot.

Here is a short video of me attempting to start the forklift:

Another question I have is, how do I get the engine cover up and off the engine without it hitting the steering wheel?

Regards. David

 

[lantraxco]

Bit of a wiring mess over the years. The lock solenoid needs one lead to a good ground, not sure what you have going with the jumper cable. Check for voltage key on at the coil on the hot side, if there's a ballast resistor inline with the coil supply lead, you will need to put the lock solenoid on a separate power lead from the key switch, it won't get the full 12V if there is a ballast resistor in line. There looks to be a bypass lead from the starter solenoid relay to the coil, make sure when you engage the starter you get the full 12V at the hot side of the coil. Check the distributor side terminal of the coil, when you engage the starter you should see wild fluctuations in voltage as the points open and close. You can also do all this with just a test light. Pull the coil wire out of the distributor and place the end close to a good ground, head bolt or some such, turn her over with the key, look for fat spark. You can also remove the propane hose from the outlet of the converter temporarily and turn the key on, you will get good gas flow if the lock solenoid valve is opening, and the diaphragm is working correctly. Check it with the engine spinning also, as the solenoid may be closing up when you engage the starter. Just some suggestions.

Those old Clarks were always a bugger that way, worn hinges, sometimes a larger than original steering wheel...