Clark fork truck with no brakes.

[widfox65]

I have a Clark fork truck that has no pedal brakes. Until this problem is resolved, it's not safe to operate, of course. Truck has two brake pedals, one on either side of steering column.
Model #060-86-768. Not sure how to troubleshoot this condition. I would appreciate some ideas what to look for?
And where? :beatsme
thanks,

 

[JeffTx]

Did you check the fluid level? No one ever checks the brake fluid except me and since I am usually gone I get back and say the brakes don't work. I Check the level and it's bone dry. I have filled it back up and slowly pressed the inching brake in and out several times till the bubbles stop rising and it starts working every time (about 3 times now). Haven't had to bleed them yet, I am sure it's due for new shoes but I'll get to it when I get to it. the thing only runs about an an hour or 2 a month anyway.

Jeff

 

[widfox65]

Jeff, No I did not check the fluid level. Not sure where the master cylinder is located. Perhaps under the steel floor board. Will check tomorrow. Is all brake fluid the same? Probably go to NAPA to buy some.
thanks

 

[JeffTx]

Mine is located on the dash and has a little black cap that says which fluid to use.

Jeff

 

[widfox65]

I have added brake fluid to the master cylinder today. It was pretty much empty. Started to pump the brake pedal several times while watching the reservoir. Had seen a few bubbles at first, then the bubbles stopped. Still continue to pump pedal, but got no resistance. Pedals still travel all the way with no back pressure. Need some help in the troubleshooting . What to test or look for at this point?
thanks

 

[JeffTx]

Your going to probably need to bleed the system then. Have you been noticing a brake fluid leak?

 

[widfox65]

This truck has been sitting for a number of years. Hard to tell what has leaked. What type of brakes does this truck have?
thanks

 

[widfox65]

How do I go about bleeding the brakes on this Clark truck? If needed, I have no way to elevate the truck for any service from the bottom.
thanks,

 

[willie59]

If the truck has been sitting for a good time and master cylinder is dry, you're likely going to have to replace the master cylinder and service the wheel cylinders and brake shoes. Sometimes you can get lucky and find a rebuild kit for master cylinder from your local auto parts dealer that's been in business for a hundred years (if you have one of those kind of places).

It's easy to lift the front wheels off the ground. I typically remove the forks to keep from having to walk around them (or tripping over them), raise the mast carriage up a few feet, then tilt mast all the way back. Place two hardwood blocks under the mast channels on each side, then tilt mast forward. The front of mast channels will land on the blocks and lift front wheels off the ground.

On most forklifts like yours, after you remove the wheels, the brake drum is part of the axle hub. It typically requires removing bolts (or nuts) that fasten axle to the hub, pull the axle, then remove the hub bearing retainers, then you can pull the brake drum/hub unit from axle. It might require you backing off the brake adjuster a bit to pull the drum.

 

[widfox65]

Willie59
I had disconnected the metal brake line to the rear of the master cylinder. When I pumped the brake pedal, fluid shot out the pipe opening. With that happening, I am assuming the master cylinder is okay, correct? If the master cylinder is okay, how do I go about bleeding the brakes on this Clark truck?
Thanks

 

[JeffTx]

Not necessarily.

Bleeding the brakes required you fill the fluid, and then have someone pump the brakes a couple of times and then hold the brakes all the way to the floor. Then someone opens the bleeder valve located on the brake cylinder and allows the fluid out, (preferable into a container of some sort and a hose to keeping it from getting all over the place). Then you close the bleeder and then signal the person holding the brake pedal down to release it. You repeat this process for both sides (or all sides you have brakes), until all the air is out of the system. (that’s where a tube and container comes in handy. I like to use a Dr Pepper bottle and a suitable piece of vacuum tubing).

That said, if it has been sitting that long outside then you really need to take Willie59’s advice and get the wheels off to inspect. Although if it’s been sitting that long maybe you can’t even start it and hopefully for you the hydraulics still work.

If you can’t start the engine, but you can turn the engine over with the starter then remove all the sparkplugs and use the key to turn the engine over which will power the hydraulics (slowly, but none the less) and allow you to raise the mast as he mentioned above. Just be prepared to take it a little while so you don’t toast the starter and have a battery charger handy. Basically try for several seconds and allow a minute or so before you try it again.

Jeff

 

[JeffTx]

Also I forgot to mention make sure to keep the fluid level topped off because if it runs dry you have to start all over.

Jeff

 

[widfox65]

I got the brakes bled and currently work. Will have to see if any leaks occur. Hand brake does nothing. You can pull the hand brake handle up and down, but it does not get tight. Does not feel like it is doing anything. Is there something I should look for in particular?
thanks

 

[JeffTx]

I would check the cable that attaches to the handle, on my forklift the top part of the handle turns to provide more or less tension on the cable. It's going to be just like an older cars rear drum brakes with a cable that pulls on a lever in the drum that pushes the shoes out into contact with the drum.