Cmark's random photo thread

[Vetech63]

Hello Vetech, if you get the chance, what make & model is it, and how do you rate it? I need to get one for exactly this scenario (reduced tail machine radiator cleaning access). Cheers.

I'll get a pic of mine today and post it. It's been a while since I've used it, but I believe it's a 4:1 ratio. Back when I was with a Fiat-Allis dealer in the late 80's, Fiat's multiplier was a 28:1

 

[Truck Shop]

I use a pneumatic for U bolts and suspension-to old to be facking around with that manual stuff.

 

[Nige]

Back when I was with a Fiat-Allis dealer in the late 80's, Fiat's multiplier was a 28:1

Before we went Hytorc on them we had a 35:1 multipler specifically for tightening the bolts between the frame and the front axle on 994 loaders. Damn dangerous thing it was too. The spec on those 36mm bolts was 1100 ft lbs plus an additional 180 ± 10 degrees. We reckoned it came in somewhere close to 3500 ft lbs.

 

[92U 3406]

The battery operated torquing tool is nice but if you're doing something large that is torque and turn it wipes out the battery quick. I'm still partial to pneumatic tools for that reason.

 

[DMiller]

Wish I had known of HyTorq units LONG Ago, the Nuke had and used them everywhere. The other torque method was heat in a hollow stud or bolt, then rotate to a lower torque figure and allow to cool back, UNGODLY Tight once cooled or as the machine and fastener temps matched.

 

[Truck Shop]

The other torque method was heat in a hollow stud or bolt,

did it that way on KW Big Six suspension.

 

[Truck Shop]

damn near lost a finger almost two when a snap-on barrel ratchet popped
just before break over at 305 on cummins mains. collided with belly support
mount. 35years ago, winter time is hell on that digit.

 

[Nige]

Wish I had known of HyTorq units LONG Ago, the Nuke had and used them everywhere. The other torque method was heat in a hollow stud or bolt, then rotate to a lower torque figure and allow to cool back, UNGODLY Tight once cooled or as the machine and fastener temps matched.

In the power station we used a hydraulic stretcher on engine/generator mounting bolts. Basically put the pressure on, turn the nut back down to the flange, then release the pressure.

 

[DMiller]

Very similar to the heated stud system and the reactor head stud nut tensioner system just larger scale.
Head stud tensioner, would have four of these working 90 degrees apart to speed up process, 96 stud/nut sets.

 

[hosspuller]

50 years ago, on a visit to GE's Schenectady turbine plant ... The turbine case bolts were hollow for a calrod heater. Young pup me, was impressed then ...

 

[92U 3406]

Wish I had known of HyTorq units LONG Ago, the Nuke had and used them everywhere. The other torque method was heat in a hollow stud or bolt, then rotate to a lower torque figure and allow to cool back, UNGODLY Tight once cooled or as the machine and fastener temps matched.

A lot of tension rods on big hydraulic breakers are torqued like that. Torque to x amount of ft-lbs, then heat the rod and turn it a specific number of degrees.

 

[Truck Shop]

 

[92U 3406]

Any of you folks ever work with supernuts?

P&H 4100 shovel has twelve large and 4 smaller ones holding each track frame on. I had one of the smaller ones, probably about 2" shank size, break while I was torquing it. It came rocketing out of the hole at about mach 2. Glad I could feel something was off and got clear of it a few seconds before it let go. The big ones on the side have got to be around 4 or 5 inch in diameter. Bet they'd embed themselves in the pit face if they came apart

 

[kshansen]

Any of you folks ever work with supernuts?

Never worked with one but do recall seeing pictures of them years ago. Interesting design.

I guess if you are paying attention while tightening all those pusher bolts and notice them not getting tighter you should figure out there is something not right!

 

[DMiller]

Watched machinists torquing fasteners on the intake pumps section segments hit a rough spot, bolts began failing almost as fast as started setting final value, 1 1/8" supposed to be Grade above Gr8 and stretching/snapping like playdoh. Turned out were inferior and MAYBE grade 3 but Stainless, NO Head marks, ordered wrong by stores personnel. Three weeks on getting correct ones and then had to inspect EVERY use of those.

 

[Vetech63]

Finally made it back here.

This is my multiplier that I keep on the truck. It's an oldie but goodie! 3/4" input drive and 1" output drive

 

[DMiller]

Sold my old Williams to a Co Conspirator that worked Macks, played Row Boat setting Camel Backs many hours, did not see a further need for myself.

 

[aongheas.macask]

Any of you folks ever work with supernuts?

P&H 4100 shovel has twelve large and 4 smaller ones holding each track frame on. I had one of the smaller ones, probably about 2" shank size, break while I was torquing it. It came rocketing out of the hole at about mach 2. Glad I could feel something was off and got clear of it a few seconds before it let go. The big ones on the side have got to be around 4 or 5 inch in diameter. Bet they'd embed themselves in the pit face if they came apart

have used them offshore on drawworks drive motors and mudpump crankshaft main bearing caps

 

[92U 3406]

Finally made it back here.
View attachment 270692 View attachment 270693
This is my multiplier that I keep on the truck. It's an oldie but goodie! 3/4" input drive and 1" output drive

Got one of those as well as a smaller 1/2" input and 3/4" output. Probably bust it out every week or 2 for a job.

 

[John C.]

I have the same one.