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Cracked Boom Pictures! Suggestions?

alaskaforby4

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Whist cleaning my machine today getting it ready for another year, I was wiping away a "grease stringer" and it just wouldn't go away!
There is another crack on the other side a little smaller than this one....So I am looking for some suggestions on how to fix!?

IMG_1285.JPGIMG_1286.JPG
 

Scrub Puller

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Yair ...alaska. If that was my machine I think I would disconnect the rams and withdraw the rods safe from accidental arcs and splatter and maybe undo some brackets and get those hydraulic pipes out of the way.

I'd then gouge or grind the cracks right out and get a full penetration "vertical up" stick weld in there... I am not familiar with that machine and that boss could well be a steel casting so a call to your dealer about recommended rods would be an idea.

The weld needs to be done by a competent operator to get a smooth finish with a bit of reinforce. When finished the bead should be dressed and blended into the surrounding metal with no flaws or undercuts...I generally polish and blend smooth with a sanding disk.

Idealy of course the area should be plated but it becomes a MUCH bigger job. You have to ask yourself how long did it take to get to this stage. The cracks are not that big really and had you not spotted them the machine would probably have worked another season with out any catastrophic failure.

That's what I reckon anyway. . .I'm sure others here will have other valid opinions. All the best with whatever you do.

Cheers.
 

grandpa

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Alaska,,, Scrubs fix is correct,,, but maybe the source of the cracking could be excessive wear between the pin and bearing? I've seen such slop cause exactly what you have there. Maybe check her out, she might be time for a hole build up, line bore and new pin and bearings.... Good luck,
 

RayF

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I don't have a lot of experiance on smaller diggers like that but more on the larger mining excavators.
A crack like that would first be investigated by cutting a window in the boom and the extent of the crack would established.If it goes into the casting (which looks likely) that would be repaired and ground and flushed out.The outside plate would be prepped and a backing plate put on the inside to weld into. Weld out the crack and grind and polish. Then depending on what was found inside regarding the strength of the structure,a ring could be cut to go around the casting and welded in place then the welds blended out. No good going half way with a crack like that. You need to get it fixed right the first time.
 

Nige

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I'm with Ray on htis one. FFS don't try to "butter this over" by just working from the outside, it will only crack again but 100 times worse the 2nd time. Even though cutting a hole in "good" steel might seem a bit drastic you have to cut a window in the boom so that the inside can be inspected and accessed for welding, repairing cracks in the casting if necessary. You may find that it was a crack in the casting that caused the outside of the boom to crack but you have no idea until you cut a hole in the boom and go looking.

I'd go a bit different to Ray and suggest that if the external boom crack is easily accessible from the inside, then put the backup strip on the outside of the structure and then make the repair weld from the inside. After welding then grind the interior weld smooth and make sure where it transitions to the casting it's well ground to smooth off the radius. Finally the backup strip can then be cut off and the weld can be back-gouged and the final passes made on the outside. Again grind smooth after finishing. Get some preheat in the structure from the get-go to make sure you drive all the moisture out and beat the crap out of every weld pass with a needle gun to stress-relieve it. Possibly add a stiffening plate over the top if it's recommended by the manufacturer. Maybe your Deere dealer can help you, they may have a repair procedure already.

To fix this one correctly is not going to be quick or cheap. If it was me I'd have the boom off the machine so that the repair work didn't have to be done off a ladder. You don't need to make a difficult repair job any harder than it already is.
 

JDOFMEMI

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Well said. The only trouble I see is that being only a 490, the boom is not that big, and inside access may be tough. Just because it is tough, do not skimp on proper proceedure.

It is good to find it now, instead of when it is out on a remote job in poor conditions.
 

alaskaforby4

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Im waiting to hear back from JD on steel type, then we are going to make a decision forward
 

CRAFT

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That's really strange ..... and quite a coincidence ..... that is now the third time i've seen those exact same looking cracks ...... years ago ~'86 I used to rent a JD60D .... Same sort of crack just showed up ..... then I bought an '89 290D, after a couple of years, that identical cracking showed up on it as well "EXACTLY THE SAME PLACE TOO" ........... both of those machines we had the same welder guy just gouge the crap out of it and relay the beads .... they both hung in there for a lot longer than we had the machines.

I wonder if it didn't have something to do with early stages of robotic welding that possibly there was a penetration problem ? ..... just a theory ...... who knows ???? .......cheers

Ps ..... just thinking about this those were Hitachi machines with JD engines in them I just remembered that a buddy of mine has about the same vintage EX200 and he had the same thing happen as well .....Hmmmmmm ????
 

Scrub Puller

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Yair...my theory (for what its worth) is that some tension is built into the structure during initial fabrication and when the cracks occur it provides "stress relief" and in some cases the cracking does not progress much further.

This was the point of my post up-thread. That is to say, rather than going all out for a very expensive full plate and reinforce I would try the gouge and reweld first. I have seen this approach work many times on several applications...notably Allis Chalmers track frames and Kato sticks.

The type of repair done obviously will be influenced by the owners plans for the machine...is it a keeper or will it be traded off down the track a bit.

Cheers.
 

tctractors

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That looks like a little crack on a small excavator, my thoughts would be to just grind out the crack after drilling a small hole at both ends to ease stress, then weld using standard practice Mig or stick weld, this crack could be caused by boom cylinder check valves not setting off equaliy or a bit more greasing to the rod ends? its no big deal, cracks like this are fairly common to find on plenty of booms, if the casting is damaged the cross pin would be cracked, I would not make a big thing out of something so easily corrected
 

John C.

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It was about the time frame of that excavator that Hitachi has similar problems. They repaired the weld as state here but also put a big fish plate on the outside of both sides of the boom. It looked like a big stylized letter H with a hole in the center for the boom pin boss. Hitachi wasn't in bed with Deere in those days so I'm thinking the problem isn't necessarily the same but that big fish plate setup worked just great.

Just a thought.
 

icestationzebra

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I have worked for several OEMs as a test engineer and have seen this type of crack on other types of machines. My quick diagnosis from your one picture is that the crack started in the middle of the weld closest to the pin. This would indicate that the weld was either not large enough or there is a sub-surface flaw. (It is tough to tell for sure, but I think there is a start/stop point in the middle of the crack) A well designed joint with a good weld should fail at the toe of the weld - where the weld meets the plate.

tctractors "...my thoughts would be to just grind out the crack after drilling a small hole at both ends to ease stress..."
Yes. Just like people used to do with glass, try to drill a hole at the ends of the cracks.

Nige "If it was me I'd have the boom off the machine so that the repair work didn't have to be done off a ladder. You don't need to make a difficult repair job any harder than it already is."
Agree - plus you can flip the part around so you only do horizontal welds which will greatly increase your chances of getting a good weld.

General weld procedure: Scrub Puller has it right. Make sure you have enough heat, clean out ALL slag between passes, and start/stop as far away from the pin as possible. Don't run the welds into the weld between the side plate and top/bottom plate - that would just create a new stress riser in a new location. You may have to preheat the pin boss depending on what material it is.

general comments about patch plates - If you do it wrong you will create a new stress riser and make things worse. If you decide to try this look at what other machines do, or cut out some cardboard of what you are thinking of and post a picture. The same weld procedures apply.

Scrub Puller " ...my theory (for what its worth) is that some tension is built into the structure during initial fabrication and when the cracks occur it provides "stress relief" and in some cases the cracking does not progress much further."
All welding creates built in stress, that is why we see parts warp when they cool. While some cracks may stop or slow down, in most cases though once a crack has started it won't stop until something falls off. FYI - on the very large CAT machines they put the boom into an oven after welding to help relieve the built in stresses.

CRAFT "That's really strange ..... and quite a coincidence ..... that is now the third time i've seen those exact same looking cracks ......"
I'm not surprised. That is one of the most stressed areas on the machine. In "less refined" machines they weld a bunch of different pieces of steel to create the boss, but this leads to a lot of welding and there is bound to be a flaw, which will lead to a crack. A better design is a cast steel boss - you only need one weld joint to attach it to the machine so you minimize flaws, plus the casting is designed to minimize stress concentrations. An even better and more expensive option would be to use a robot to weld this part as it would eliminate 95% of the weld flaws. This machine has one of the first two - not quite sure from the picture.

ISZ
 
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Scrub Puller

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Yair...good one ISZ. This discussion here is what this site is all about.

I am pretty much out of the game now but I find it intertesting to come here and and see how other folks (professional folks like yourself, grandpa, Nige and others) deal with problems that us old bushies have been doing our best with for years.

Cheers.
 

RayF

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Back in the days when Komatsu PC650's and PC1000's were a big mining digger we did heaps of cracks in that position. Sometimes the casting inside was so badly cracked inside we either replaced it or fabricated a new one. Casting were hard to get. As said here good weld precedures including correct preheat and we always stress relieved to 580C in an oven after a repair like that. Probably overkill for this job.
 

tctractors

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It is good to see all the differing thoughts and repair methods put forward on the repair of this pin location, it realy makes some interesting reading, the weld area around the boss does look a bit lacking of weld thickness, this is as already stated a common crack zone, I have found the check valves on the hoist cylinders to be a cause of some boom damage through signal pressure imbalance on a few excavators in the past, 1 cylinder would work before the other causing a twisting effort in the boom, I had to replace a few check valves on Volvo excavators with this issue, lets hope the J.D. gets sorted.
 

RayF

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Your right about the check valves. I remember Liebherr having trouble with the early 994's. The cylinders were set up to keep pulling even though the arm was out of travel.A young bloke just out of his apprenticeship used a limit switch wired into the electronics and fixed it.
 

Nige

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What worries me is that there is a casting, 90% or more of which is not visible inside that structure, and if that casting is cracked in a location you can't see I don't care how good the welder is who's doing the repair. It's going to crack again, guaranteed. Repairing the visible cracks just from the outside is chancing it IMHO.
 
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