Shimmy1
Senior Member
Epirbalex
-
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d 8n
- Thread starter burns
- Start date
Epirbalex
reading all that it should be working perfectly , problem is its not .
D8N used for dozing or ripping or pulling a implement? Like plow or disc?
John C.
Senior Member
I've not worked on 8N machines but I've done plenty of converters in H's and K's and the common heat causing failure is leakage through the stator, turbine and impeller. This can be seen by checking the scavenge output from the bottom of the converter housing. I think I saw where the converter was replaced so my question is was it replaced with new, exchanged rebuild or rebuilt in house?
another thing you can have a look at is your air cleaner , low flow through a turbo causes it to heat , heating oil , flow on effect .There would probably be more black smoke as well with this if it was the air cleaner . Having your dozer running at 1500 revs with no load and not cooling points to this .
R.D.G013
Senior Member
- Joined
- Apr 6, 2013
- Messages
- 259
- Location
- sunshine coast qld australia
- Occupation
- Heavy equipment operator/foreman for about 48yrs o
Dust in a radiator core will keep heat in the core, might not be much trash in the core but dust can sit in there and cant be seen and will cause it to retain heat. Have been on a 10 T lately stripping topsoil, eng temp went up to 97c, not much much trash in radiator but washed it out with water and it now runs at 87c, so if u are in dusty conditions might pay to have a look. Cheers
8L--3408E, folded core radiator pulling 26ft wide drag scraper in 2nd gear leveling for AG, will heat trans-powertrain oil to 235f/113C / engine 210f/110C IF the radiator is not blown out daily. Dust accumulates in the areas outside of the fan radius. Ambient temperature 35-40C. TO4-30wt oil.
No extra cooling capacity with standard radiators.
I know a fella who got sick of trying to hunt down overheating problem on a D4H , no single problem other than a lack of radiator capacity , he added another radiator in front of the existing one , problem solved . Accumulated age related problems all adding up.
transmission light came on today at 130 degrees celcius engine 110 took 10mins engine still only went down to 95 it just gradually goes up and only 8 degrees diference in radiator was thinking of degassing condensor and taking out and seeing if it improves, or should i put some sort of flush through the cooling system see if it gets any crud out
If available try Cat's radiator flush. I hook up a water hose to the bottom radiator drain and open the radiator fill to push the crap out of core and top tank with the engine running at idle speed. Then operate the machine again until the temp reaches just below 'red on the gauge' and reverse flush again until the coolant-water is no longer rusty.
Loosen crap settles in the top tank and plugs the core tubes.
OR just pull the radiator out and clean the core tubes. Old Cat oil dip stick and pressure washers works okay to 'rod-out' the core tubes.
Nige
Senior Member
If when you say "8 degrees" I assume you're referring to the difference in temperature between radiator inlet and outlet coolant temperatures (correct me if I'm wrong), and if so your radiator is absolute borderline on cooling performance - 12 degrees is the norm. Start by cleaning the cooling system internally - some good recommendations from Stan above.
What coolant are you using BTW..?
What coolant are you using BTW..?
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Shimmy1
Senior Member
A LOW differential temp across the radiator really only indicates one of two things, correct? Either plugged (internal or external) radiator, or too much flow? I know Burns has said the radiator, water pump, thermostat, and pulleys have been replaced, but is it possible the thermostat is faulty ?
Nige
Senior Member
Next time the transmission oil & filter gets changed put some SAE30 TO-4 in it.......
Just thinking out loud but I wonder what temperature differences an infra-red thermometer might see when looking at the front of the radiator from left to right and top to bottom as the engine warms up from cold..? Thinking about it if there are plugged passages in the core it ought to be possible to see their location using an i-r gun just at about the time the thermostat opens.
I know the OP said the radiator was replaced, but was it replaced with a new core, a re-core, or a complete radiator, and more importantly was whatever was replaced an OEM part or a “will fit”...?
Just thinking out loud but I wonder what temperature differences an infra-red thermometer might see when looking at the front of the radiator from left to right and top to bottom as the engine warms up from cold..? Thinking about it if there are plugged passages in the core it ought to be possible to see their location using an i-r gun just at about the time the thermostat opens.
I know the OP said the radiator was replaced, but was it replaced with a new core, a re-core, or a complete radiator, and more importantly was whatever was replaced an OEM part or a “will fit”...?
radiator cores were replaced with cores from a dozer suplier here in aus, not genuine but new
top and bottom radiator tanks were left in there and fitted new cores, it runs elc cat coolant in machine, another thermostat was fitted only two weeks ago on machine genuine
top and bottom radiator tanks were left in there and fitted new cores, it runs elc cat coolant in machine, another thermostat was fitted only two weeks ago on machine genuine
Short video of 3406B / 623B cooling system that was not using ELC. Green Glycol coolant did not look bad, machine wasn't overheating...I just wanted to clean out cooling system before sending the scraper to the desert with 30-40C ambient temps. AND demo for the machine owner and his mechanics explaining WHY Green Glycol based anti-freeze creates cooling system and internal engine damage (cavitation erosion > water pump failures, pitted liners, block damage etc).
The solid particles (rusty crap) draining out of this coolant system was a eye opener for the machine owner and his mechanics.
SAE50 TO-4 will create a bit more heat caused by increased pressure required to lock-up the frictions (steel-to-friction disc) per Cat engineers.
Agree with Nige,
SAE50 TO-4 will create a bit more heat caused by increased pressure required to lock-up the frictions (steel-to-friction disc) per Cat engineers.
DMiller
Senior Member
I like the current Ethylene Glycol based coolants vs Propylene Glycol as not so aggressive on systems yet still have doubts as to useful life and no system maintenance claims. PG tends to break down too quickly, what additive is used to make ELC different than straight Green EG.
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Nige
Senior Member
I can only speak for my experience but we are using an ELC (not Cat) and it basically runs maintenance-free apart from SOS sampling for the life of the engine to overhaul which is 18,000 hours in the case of our haul trucks.
Good point. I don't think anyone asked about that.
@burns
Did the 8N have some type of ELC coolant when purchased? I am asking because Ethylene Glycol or Propylene Glycol based coolants that are not maintained can cause cylinder block liner ledge-to-liner sealing problems that allow combustion gases into the coolant system. The 'rubber filler band' just below the liner ledge hardens and coolant additive solids cause the filler band to wear away allowing coolant to contact the cyl block liner ledge interface.
Symptoms; 45 minutes to a bit over 1 hour of dozing or ripping and the trans-torque heats up and takes 10-15 minute @ high idle in neutral to cool down. Machines act like the torque is flooding causing overheating issues.
Did the 8N have some type of ELC coolant when purchased? I am asking because Ethylene Glycol or Propylene Glycol based coolants that are not maintained can cause cylinder block liner ledge-to-liner sealing problems that allow combustion gases into the coolant system. The 'rubber filler band' just below the liner ledge hardens and coolant additive solids cause the filler band to wear away allowing coolant to contact the cyl block liner ledge interface.
Symptoms; 45 minutes to a bit over 1 hour of dozing or ripping and the trans-torque heats up and takes 10-15 minute @ high idle in neutral to cool down. Machines act like the torque is flooding causing overheating issues.