D37ex-21A blowing smoke

[josephny]

Reporting back:

I got 4 new injectors and installed.

It's still spitting oil from the breather tube (resulting in the oil level dropping pretty rapidly).

Is there anything else that could be going on that wouldn't require an engine rebuild?

Did the oil filler cap loosen test -- no pressure coming out.

No pressure out the dipstick hole.

Engine feels nice and strong.

No weird noises (like missing firing on a cylinder).

Just oil and smoke out the breather tube and a rapidly dropping engine oil.

Oil that comes out is not milky.

Thanks!

 

[Dave Neubert]

From what you are saying you have blow by caused from worn or damaged pistons or liners sounds like you will have to tear it down

 

[epirbalex]

Reporting back:

I got 4 new injectors and installed.

It's still spitting oil from the breather tube (resulting in the oil level dropping pretty rapidly).

Is there anything else that could be going on that wouldn't require an engine rebuild?

Did the oil filler cap loosen test -- no pressure coming out.

No pressure out the dipstick hole.

Engine feels nice and strong.

No weird noises (like missing firing on a cylinder).

Just oil and smoke out the breather tube and a rapidly dropping engine oil.

Oil that comes out is not milky.

Thanks!

Pressure can't build up because the breather is letting the pressure go . Block it and open your filler cap and there will be blow by most likely . After reading on these pages about a dipstick being launched across a yard be wary of it if you block the breather tube .

 

[josephny]

Pressure can't build up because the breather is letting the pressure go . Block it and open your filler cap and there will be blow by most likely . After reading on these pages about a dipstick being launched across a yard be wary of it if you block the breather tube .

Just did that.

I didn't have a plug, so I just kinked the rubber tube coming off the metal breather fitting (that is, it was mostly blocked) and sure enough I felt plenty of pressure (and gas) coming out of the filler tube.

Is there anything it could be that would not require an engine removal and breakdown?

Thanks!

 

[epirbalex]

Just did that.

I didn't have a plug, so I just kinked the rubber tube coming off the metal breather fitting (that is, it was mostly blocked) and sure enough I felt plenty of pressure (and gas) coming out of the filler tube.

Is there anything it could be that would not require an engine removal and breakdown?

Thanks!

Nope , it needs rebuilding . You could sell it . Should be still a tidy dozer at 3000 hrs if they are genuine .

 

[josephny]

Nope , it needs rebuilding . You could sell it . Should be still a tidy dozer at 3000 hrs if they are genuine .

It's otherwise in excellent shape. I bought it several years ago with 2000 hours.

Any idea what the cost of rebuilding might be?

 

[epirbalex]

It's otherwise in excellent shape. I bought it several years ago with 2000 hours.

Any idea what the cost of rebuilding might be?

Prohibitive springs to mind . I've seen the cost of work done on Komatsu's in the US quoted on these forums well out wack compared to here , seen other work done cheaply . Few days sending out emails to different places that cater for Komatsu's be worth the time .

 

[balls2go]

Prohibitive springs to mind . I've seen the cost of work done on Komatsu's in the US quoted on these forums well out wack compared to here , seen other work done cheaply . Few days sending out emails to different places that cater for Komatsu's be worth the time .

Probably looking at around 5 grand to overhaul it. Just my opinion.

 

[josephny]

What should I do?

 

[Vetech63]

What should I do?

You can rebuild that engine cheaper then replacing the dozer. Have you ever been inside an engine before?

 

[John C.]

Pull the head off and see what is inside. It is not a big job and you might find something wrong with the head anyway.

 

[epirbalex]

What should I do?

Something has happened in the life of the engine to make it wear out before its due . Should be still on its original tracks . If you open it up be prepared to do all the work , not so easy to transport in bits . Because of the age it would be better to re-condition to a high standard , bottom end , pistons liners , oil pump , water pump , head work (valves , guides , head plane ) injector pump. So you never have to go near it again for 6 thousand hours or more . Is this the 6 cylinder motor ? I could understand if the motor had overheated at some point that it would be burning oil now .

 

[josephny]

Can anyone recommend where I can this 4BT (SAA4D102e-2) rebuilt?

Thanks!

 

[Vetech63]

Can anyone recommend where I can this 4BT (SAA4D102e-2) rebuilt?

Thanks!

Right here on this forum. Get your tools out!

 

[josephny]

Right here on this forum. Get your tools out!

That's super encouraging and generous of you -- thank you!

Assuming a pretty descent mechanical ability (we've changed dozer and PC160 tracks, replaced seals on the dozer's track tension assembly and plenty of other things) but not any engine work, do you really think we can do this?

 

[John C.]

Probably some of the requirements to be able to successfully rebuild a diesel engine:
Lifting equipment to be able to R&R the engine.
Space to put the machine in for the job.
Inside space for tear down and reassembly of the engine. Includes tables and containers for the component parts.
Tools sufficient to measure parts. Micrometers, depth mikes, snap gauges, feeler gauges
Any special tools for the engine: timing pins for the governors, etc
A good machine shop experienced in diesel engine machine work.
The ability to recognize what is worn and needs replaced as opposed to just replacing everything.
Torque wrenches appropriate to the size of your engine.

A good machine shop should be found before you undertake the project. They can guide you in most of what needs to be accomplished. You also need to finalize your parts source before you start. That motor including the R&R is about 70 to 90 hours of work for an experienced wrench working full time on the project. Probably figure half again more for someone who has to work from the manual, put out fires and rebuild at the same time.

 

[Iworkondiggers]

Common enough for these things to crack rings, there's an updated part number, pull the nose cone and disconnect the trays and sling it through the cab floor with a bar through it to hold it up.
Pull the engine and head and sump and pull the pistons and fit new rings, maybe hone it if it needs it and then send it.

 

[josephny]

This is way above my skill level.

I found a guy who can do this, but his supplier quoted him $3,000 (US) for the rebuilt kit. I see them online for $500-$1,000. Is there a difference?

Does it make sense to take it apart first to see if it's just 1 ring, or a singular other part?

Thanks!

 

[Iworkondiggers]

This is way above my skill level.

I found a guy who can do this, but his supplier quoted him $3,000 (US) for the rebuilt kit. I see them online for $500-$1,000. Is there a difference?

Does it make sense to take it apart first to see if it's just 1 ring, or a singular other part?

Thanks!

I'd just do rings if that's all it needs honestly.
If you wanna be sure it's rings before fully jumping in pull the head , I think you can do it without removing the nose cone but may as well as it's stuff all to remove.
Film the cylinders with diesel and see how quick they leak down, if one or two are going quicker look there for problem and you'll know it's rings. I'd also turn engine over and check bores for damage to see if she needs a hone.
Then pull the engine and do it, might be able to do in frame but not sure if the sump will fit out, can't remember but I do remember you don't need to pull the cab to do it, you can get in through the top and bottom, have fun digging lol.
Price wise no bloody idea sorry

 

[josephny]

I've been trying to get this info from Cummins and from Komatsu, both in the US and Japan, and no one can help.

I have a Komatsu D37ex-21A with a SAA4d102-e engine, ESN 26363507 and need a replacement.

That ESN cannot be identified -- I think because it was made in Japan.

Does anyone have any way to look up the specs?

Thank you!