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D5B Order of disassembly for steering clutch pack work

tctractors

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 9, 2007
Messages
2,417
Location
Worc U.K.
The cylinders come with spring return or double acting at near double the cost, you will never need ever double acting on this type of cylinder, the talk was possibly pulling down the f/ drives so jacking back and forward is not going to help you with this, I have said the manual tells you lots of things but you cannot beat the knowledge of 100's of back case rebuilds, have a look in Shop Talk on my efforts of just some of the Tractors I have pulled down.
 

.RC.

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 27, 2012
Messages
785
Location
Central Qld, Australia
I suspect that "adapter" is nothing but a guide to hold the pulling bolts in position while you assemble the cylinder. The photo shows the threaded pulling holes in the flange.
 

tctractors

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 9, 2007
Messages
2,417
Location
Worc U.K.
The adapter could be made easily as all you need is a bit of plate that has a hole for the pinion adapter and the 2 bolt holes in to bolt it to the flange then 4 threaded bolt holes to match the end press plate, in the picture I see it shows only 2 bolts but I tend to always use 4 bolts, these bolts are at a wider spacing than the 2 mounting bolts, on the earlier D5's that we have on the U.K. the pulling bolts for the flange are Metric thread.
 

Ferdinand

Active Member
Joined
Oct 11, 2011
Messages
38
Location
In a house.
I believe that the two threaded pulling holes on the flange are as close to the center as possible, and this places them too close together to be able to fit the hydraulic cylinder between them. So the adapter has recessed holes that hold shorter bolts which hold the adapter to flange. The outer edge of the adapter then has two wider spaced threaded holes that are far enough apart that the hydraulic cylinder fits between them, and these use much longer bolts.

I surmised this by looking at the list of required special tools, which has one set of 2-1/4" long 5/8-11 bolts and another set of 5-1/5" long 5/8 bolts. If you look at the Adapter picture from the manual, it looks like there are 4 large unthreaded holes on it and then 2 threaded holes at the outer edge which hold that flat plate against the hydraulic cylinder.

I suspect those large 4 holes are countersunk holes for the 5/8 bolts that attach it to the flange. If I can ever get a decent picture of the thing I'll know for sure.
 

Ferdinand

Active Member
Joined
Oct 11, 2011
Messages
38
Location
In a house.
Ferdinand if you struggle with this adapter I have 1 and would be happy to post the details,

So, I struck out on finding an adapter from the guy in Australia. The one that was posted at Machinery Trader. Long gone. If you could post the dimensions of the one you have that would make my life a lot easier as I can have it built before getting to it. I've not the center adapter and a 50 ton hydraulic cylinder in hand and the 5/8 bolts on order. All I need is the thickness, overall length and distance between the inner bolt holes where the adapter bolts to the flange. Thanks again for the help.
 

tctractors

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 9, 2007
Messages
2,417
Location
Worc U.K.
What is the part number you have on the centre adapter that screws on the pinion shaft it is stamped on it, I did have a look at my plates today as they were just handy, the plate that bolts to the flange is not countersunk, the 4 holes on the plate I was looking at were elongated an amount but I cannot be sure if it was me doing a slight mod? but I do have 2 of the plates so will look about for the other 1, the pinion adapter on the D5B has the thick bolt, the D4 -D5 early adapter has the thinner bolt.
 

Ferdinand

Active Member
Joined
Oct 11, 2011
Messages
38
Location
In a house.
The center adapter is PN 7M7237. Exterior OD is 2.2475" Large end is 1" 1/2-12 and smaller end is 1"-14 threads.

The bolts that go through the flange adapter are listed as 5/8-11, as are the long bolts that go around the hydraulic cylinder. It would work without the bolts being countersunk, I just assumed they were, based on the hard to see picture in the service manual not showing a gap under the cylinder when it's installed.
 
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