D6r series l equaliser bar pin

[Nz D6R toy]

Does anyone know the actual size and tread in the end pins of the equalizer bar ends?
3/4unc? Possibly?

I need to porter power them out.

Thanks

 

[Welder Dave]

Why not just try a couple bolts in it? It's most likely a common size.

 

[Nz D6R toy]

Why not just try a couple bolts in it? It's most likely a common size.

Need to run a tap thru it first, thread is 23 years old and full of crap.
Would rather start with the right tap and not bugger it trying to put a bolt in thats not correct.

 

[Welder Dave]

Clean it as good as possible and maybe a bolt would thread in a little. If that wont work get a thread gauge. I've ground a taper on a bolt and cut a notch in it to make a poor man's tap. Could be enough to confirm the size.

 

[Cmark]

It will be 1"x14tpi. Note that this is not 1" UNF.

 

[Nige]

The R&I procedure calls for a 30-ton cylinder to remove the E-Bar end pins but if that pin has been in there for a long time IMHO no way will that force move it. It will be rusted solid. You might be better getitng hold of a lance and simply blow straight through the centre of the pin using the threaded hole on the back side as a guide. Even if you were to somehow manage to remove it the pin will be goofed and not reusable anyway.

The Cat threaded puller rod to suit the end pins is a 5P4776 (30 ton capacity) with nut 1A1935. Both are 1"-14TPI.

 

[Nz D6R toy]

The R&I procedure calls for a 30-ton cylinder to remove the E-Bar end pins but if that pin has been in there for a long time IMHO no way will that force move it. It will be rusted solid. You might be better getitng hold of a lance and simply blow straight through the centre of the pin using the threaded hole on the back side as a guide. Even if you were to somehow manage to remove it the pin will be goofed and not reusable anyway.

The Cat threaded puller rod to suit the end pins is a 5P4776 (30 ton capacity) with nut 1A1935. Both are 1"-14TPI.

View attachment 338723

Cheers for that info Nigel.
Yip my engineer thats coming Tuesday to do some other jobs to it will have his thermal lance with him so if it wont pull out we will make it run out as a liquid lol.
Ive got all new pins and bushes to go back in it.
Funny enough ive ended up with a second D6R that got a brand new cat beam in it but its the longer LGP one.

 

[Nige]

my engineer thats coming Tuesday to do some other jobs to it will have his thermal lance with him

Always nice to see a man with a backup plan.......!!
I don't think I've ever seen one of those pins come out without turning it liquid first unless it was on an almost brand new/recently rebuilt machine.

 

[Nz D6R toy]

Update, removed the old beam and new one installed.
New issue now, coolant in the oil, leaking liner seal. Machine had sat for a bit with no coolant in it so as they do the seals let go.
Lucky i have a spare parts tractor with a fully rebuit 3306 that the local Cat dealer spent $70,000nzd on…

 

[nicky 68a]

Can I ask if you had to blow the old pins out of the eq bar?
I’m guessing you did

 

[Nz D6R toy]

I managed to use a potapower and pull them out, had to weld extra nuts to the pin to make the thread stronger in the pins tho.
Some heat was applied to the clevis as well.
The center pin was still in good condition and slid out perfectly unassisted

 

[Nige]

The center pin was still in good condition and slid out perfectly unassisted

My advice is to buy a lottery ticket..........

 

[nicky 68a]

I managed to use a potapower and pull them out, had to weld extra nuts to the pin to make the thread stronger in the pins tho.
Some heat was applied to the clevis as well.
The center pin was still in good condition and slid out perfectly unassisted

Wow,I take back what I said!!
Well done sir.
Extra beer for you tonight

 

[tctractors]

Beam pins are easy when you have the correct kit also splitting the Track so you can also give things some hammer sets them free, on the water in the sump pan issue I would visit your water pump as the most probable cause, clean out the weep hole by poking right up it, you cannot hurt anything so fill the engine with a few gallons of water and see if it leaks via the weep hole, a repair kit is just a few dollars, a Re-Man one is crazy coins as they take only about an hour to refurbish.

 

[D6 Merv]

yes i 2nd the bit about checking water pump weep hole. They block up and can send water into engine sump past lip type oil seal on a 3306. And the block on a 3306 always holds some coolant around liner sleeves even if hoses are removed.