Fuel Shut off Solenoid - Delphi pump

[Knivens894]

My tractor after about 2,000 hours suddenly stopped running and would not restart. Checking the fuel system, I had fuel going to the injector pump, but no pump output at the injectors. I called to order a new shut off solenoid from the dealer and was quoted the unit at over $200 including shipping. I had seen many others quoted at less than $20, so I opted for the less expensive. The first generic unit worked for a few weeks then quit. Thinking the first unit was defective, I ordered a second one of the same type and replaced it again. That one lasted a week, so I ordered a third solenoid made by a different manufacturer. That one lasted about one week, and again after shut down, it would not restart. That made me think, three new units cannot be internally defective, so it must be something else. I dropped the tank, cleaned it, and found three pieces of a fuel filler can nozzle in the tank and a loose filter screen was in the tank. I went through the entire fuel system, replaced all hoses, filters and clamps. It would crank and run when cold, but after it heated up, any shutdown would end the day. I had 12.8V at the solenoid and each read at about 11 ohms resistance. Bench testing the solenoids, they would heat up but not retract the plunger until they were nudged by finger. I called the dealer again and ask if there was anything special about the solenoid. He said yes, and two different fuel shut off solenoids were used in my tractor. He sent pictures of the two and asked which one was original to the tractor.

The moral of the story is generic parts do not function the same as OEM parts. In some cases you may save some money, but in my case it cost me far more in time, frustration and parts to solve the problem.

 

[Island_catguy]

Literally went thru the same thing with a truck last month. Would not start. Seen it 100 times. Even told the guy before I checked that it was the cam sensor. Got the sensors from the store (aftermarket not OEM from Nissan as they are triple the price). Did not start. Never had an issue before with after market sensors for this model. Check all the fuses, harness, got a test ipdm, test pcm, programmed it, checked timing. Ended up grabbing OEM cams and crank from Nissan. Out of pocket. For sanity. Fired right up.

 

[HoeHoeHoe]

Yep anything with a magnet, spends the money for OEM.

 

[Knivens894]

Talked to a diesel repair specialist shop who said he had a truck on which the owner replaced the hood latch with an aftermarket latch. The original latch had an electrical connection but the replacement did not. Turns out the latch told the computer when the hood was open or closed and the unit would not crank because the computer thought the hood was open. He replaced the latch with OEM and the problem was solved.

 

[HarleyHappy]

20 years ago, you had to buy an OEM map sensor for GM vehicles. They would sell you an aftermarket but don’t believe any of them ever worked.
My brother works for GM as a tech and I usually ask him what’s okay to go aftermarket on.
I just screwed the Pooch on front driveshaft u-joints on my Case 580. OEM were around a hundo each, so stupid me, not wanting to drop 400 bucks for OEM, I bought some New Holland, or so EBay said. They are greasable!
There is no way in Hell, you can fit grease fittings in a Carden setup. The u-joints are inside the swivel housing, not possible to grease. So I had to use straight zerks and grind some of the Carden cradle, so they would swivel. Of course, I couldn’t plug them, as they were a metric thread.
I so should have sent them back.