I have a Case 680ck boom cylinder that is leaking out the gland It has a 5" cylinder and has a 2 1/4 rod. I have researched the net and it says the machine should have a 4" cylinder. Maybe it has been switched somewhere down the line? Maybe I haven't found the right information? Does anyone know about this? I need to find a place to get the parts. Any recommended places? I been reading here last night about taking it apart and I do have a 3/4 drive 1 7/8 socket, a cheater bar and heat so I'm going to give it a try.
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Hello
- Thread starter ps66x4
- Start date
We ran into a similar situation w/ a case 580ck. I removed gland nut a pulled the rod out. I took the rod and gland nut assembly to the local hyd. shop and they matched up the parts and asembled. the labor charge was not much. I am thinking labor to break nut loose and repack gland and the piston end was around $50 plus parts. was well worth it as opposed to trying to order and return things online.
Thanks Delmer. I called a local hydraulic shop and he probably could match up parts. But ordering it online would save me a couple of hours driving time, just haven't been able to find them online yet.
jimg984
Senior Member
Tinkerer
Senior Member
The 5 inch cylinder is the correct one. Here is a link to it. http://partstore.casece.com/us/parts-search.html#epc::mr62938ar399389
Today I had to go toward a local hydraulic shop so I went the extra distance and got the seals. Asked the guy if he knew the torque on the bolt and he said 210ft/lb, does that sound right? I was thinking more.
Tinkerer
Senior Member
Tinkerer
Senior Member
No just the 1 1/4 inch bolt with cushion device. I will look into the manual further.
Tinkerer
Senior Member
Where is the rod that has a 1 7/8" bolt ? It can't be the in the 2 1/4" rod that is in the boom cylinder.
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Tinkerer
Senior Member
The torque value is in the page of my manual I posted. -------1000 to 1200 ft. lbs. ,with the threads lubricated. Don't torque it with dry threads. If you need to see the bolt look at Part #18 in the online parts book. I posted the link in my #8 post.
Thanks Tinkerer. I think I'm finally understanding. I should I had search the torque for "1 1/4" for the shank? I kept looking for "1 7/8" for the head and I didn't see it on the page.
One more question on the "lube part", I'm getting a little confused. I was going to clean the bolt and hole with break cleaner, dry it up and use loctite. I thought loctite had to be clean and dry to work. If I lube it will the loctite still work? Could you explain?
The dealer called back a few minutes ago and told me to use blue loctite and to torque to 700 to 750 ft/lbs. Now I see that is what it says on the page you posted on line 4, I have backhoe boom with cushion device 1 1/4"-12 threads.
One more question on the "lube part", I'm getting a little confused. I was going to clean the bolt and hole with break cleaner, dry it up and use loctite. I thought loctite had to be clean and dry to work. If I lube it will the loctite still work? Could you explain?
The dealer called back a few minutes ago and told me to use blue loctite and to torque to 700 to 750 ft/lbs. Now I see that is what it says on the page you posted on line 4, I have backhoe boom with cushion device 1 1/4"-12 threads.
Tinkerer
Senior Member
J.I. Case did not use Loc-Tite when your backhoe was built. That is why they advise lubricating the threads. It is to prevent galling them at those high torque values. If you use Loc-Tite ,cleaning the threads with brake cleaner is the thing to do. It is its own lubricant until it cures. 700 to 750 is correct for the bolt with the cushion device.
The cylinder is on the machine but now it won't start. It has been sitting since the cylinder removed. My brother had the starter rebuilt because he said he burned it out trying to get the machine to run. I was over his place last weekend and tried starting it, disconnected the air filter from the manifold, bleed the new fuel filters he put on since the starter was out, using the manual pump. Wanted to bleed the injectors so I took off some covers off and found some adjusting screws and decided not to touch them without asking here first so I put them back on. It seems to me the starter turns over slow. He uses 1 12v battery and I figure that is what he has used all along so I didn't question it. Could the rebuild-er wire the starter for a 24v and that would cause it to turn slower? Just a thought. Should the machine be 24v all along? When we crank a little vapour does come out the exhaust. We tried ether a couple of time and nothing happened. So we gave up.