Georgia Iron
Senior Member
- Joined
- May 6, 2012
- Messages
- 879
- Location
- USA - Georgia
- Occupation
- Concrete building slab and grading contractor
Happy 2023 all. May your year bring good luck and prosperity...
Once you figure out your machine you can hook trees with the back of the bucket and pull them backwards on an angle and have them drop back towards the side of the machine. You must use the loader arms to apply pressure to the side of the tree as it comes backwards. It is dangerous but it is very useful when you must work close to houses and in areas where you cant push forward. Break the ground all the way around the tree before you start. Sometimes 3 or 4 deep depending on if it is a pesky sweet gum thats want to snap off instead of pull the root ball out. Do a test push and see if it will roll out, if not break the ground all the way around the stump -- if you need to get the whole stump out. I typically try not drive over trees that i have dropped unless i want to break up the tops.
On more than one occasion I have damaged both my track loaders having an odd smaller tree try to spear you off the machine once you start pushing threw smaller stuff and driving over it. They come up and try to get the radiator or snake threw the rops and spear you. Making a road and trying to save certain trees as you go, is when you get in to stuff that has a greater chance of getting you hurt because you bring the standing ones closer to you as you work. I have had the bucket up and had a chuck of tree fall on the bucket and bounce and hit me right in the face... Dead trees are very hard and in some parts of the forrest there are large vines that pull things out of tops of trees behind you and onto the back of your machine. Use a good tree to smack the dead one before you get near it..
For me the worst trees are a group of large trees that have grown up around each other closer together than your bucket width. The pulling technique will help if you can get the root balls to separate sometimes the root balls are connected and they will not separate and then you might as well be dropping 2 or 3 trees at the same time.
There was an older guy around here that used a loader a lot. He would push down trees threw standing trees to break them up. He had one do a wierd whip, it came back and part of it caught his arm and it was cut off. Make sure you learn about tree tension and spring back, limbs can cause the trunk to jump straight back out of the pile at you. When you use a machine to drop a tree they will build up tension when you bend the tree trunk or branch. Make sure that you relieve the tension before you or some else saws it up, the small stuff under pressure can get you. Pushing it over with the machine lets your brain forget that a 2" tree can hurt real bad if it love taps you under pressure.
Clearing and putting it in piles is different than needing to haul it off. I will clear a 100' - 150' wide area and pull out 10 or 12 whole trees and lay them out in a row not touching each other so that it is safe to saw them up with nothing over your head and no pressure on the trees... and I also try to move the trees CLEANLY and out of the dirt to help keep my saws sharp longer.
I have cleared lots of areas like you have in the photos and needed to haul it off. I roll the tops in to the road and try not to break them as they come down. I had a log yard willing to take the little ones and we carefully laid them over limbed them cut them to 18 feet or so and took load after load.
Once you figure out your machine you can hook trees with the back of the bucket and pull them backwards on an angle and have them drop back towards the side of the machine. You must use the loader arms to apply pressure to the side of the tree as it comes backwards. It is dangerous but it is very useful when you must work close to houses and in areas where you cant push forward. Break the ground all the way around the tree before you start. Sometimes 3 or 4 deep depending on if it is a pesky sweet gum thats want to snap off instead of pull the root ball out. Do a test push and see if it will roll out, if not break the ground all the way around the stump -- if you need to get the whole stump out. I typically try not drive over trees that i have dropped unless i want to break up the tops.
On more than one occasion I have damaged both my track loaders having an odd smaller tree try to spear you off the machine once you start pushing threw smaller stuff and driving over it. They come up and try to get the radiator or snake threw the rops and spear you. Making a road and trying to save certain trees as you go, is when you get in to stuff that has a greater chance of getting you hurt because you bring the standing ones closer to you as you work. I have had the bucket up and had a chuck of tree fall on the bucket and bounce and hit me right in the face... Dead trees are very hard and in some parts of the forrest there are large vines that pull things out of tops of trees behind you and onto the back of your machine. Use a good tree to smack the dead one before you get near it..
For me the worst trees are a group of large trees that have grown up around each other closer together than your bucket width. The pulling technique will help if you can get the root balls to separate sometimes the root balls are connected and they will not separate and then you might as well be dropping 2 or 3 trees at the same time.
There was an older guy around here that used a loader a lot. He would push down trees threw standing trees to break them up. He had one do a wierd whip, it came back and part of it caught his arm and it was cut off. Make sure you learn about tree tension and spring back, limbs can cause the trunk to jump straight back out of the pile at you. When you use a machine to drop a tree they will build up tension when you bend the tree trunk or branch. Make sure that you relieve the tension before you or some else saws it up, the small stuff under pressure can get you. Pushing it over with the machine lets your brain forget that a 2" tree can hurt real bad if it love taps you under pressure.
Clearing and putting it in piles is different than needing to haul it off. I will clear a 100' - 150' wide area and pull out 10 or 12 whole trees and lay them out in a row not touching each other so that it is safe to saw them up with nothing over your head and no pressure on the trees... and I also try to move the trees CLEANLY and out of the dirt to help keep my saws sharp longer.
I have cleared lots of areas like you have in the photos and needed to haul it off. I roll the tops in to the road and try not to break them as they come down. I had a log yard willing to take the little ones and we carefully laid them over limbed them cut them to 18 feet or so and took load after load.
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