Help with priming!

[512high]

EVERYONE, have a 2011 jd 244j small wheel loader, bought oem fuel filters today, small inline, and final black canister, followed instructions to my manual, bleed air bubbles, then cleared up, ran for 3 seconds and wont start now....any tips before I call nortrax, I thought this was easy for me, guess not.

philip

 

[DK88]

try bleeding again.. may take a few attempts.

 

[512high]

I was told fill canister with diesel, owners manual says nothing about that, do I depress foot pedal at all? thanks for the reply

 

[Birken Vogt]

It can't hurt to hold the throttle wide open to inject more fuel to help prime. Some pumps are already doing this internally, but it might help.

 

[512high]

Im done for today...before I did the fuel filter change, I started unit, no issues, I first removed clear plastic inline filter, then opened drain on bottom of John deere filter, per manual, removed old filter, installed new one with with some diesel, turned over and ran for about 3-5 seconds, wouldn't start after...I then opened bleeder screw, primed again to remove air bubbles, still no start, held key down for about 15 seconds, I have opened bleeder screw and primed so many times, at wits end! I know all you pros are laughing, but and "tricks would be grateful"...regards

Philip

 

[old-iron-habit]

Not sure if your machine has one but a year 2000 JD power unit I have has a hand primer on the fuel pump. Its kind of hard to see at the bottom back of the mechanical pump. After installing a new filled fuel filter loosely I give it a few pumps until the fuel flows free and so far it has started and ran fine. I have also run it out of fuel and have primed it the same way with just hand pumping. The only exception I loosen the supply line at the injector pump and push fuel to it. It cranks a few seconds and runs rough for a minute and has cleared right up. Good luck.

EDIT: If it has the hand primer and it has no resistance on the pump lever bump the engine a bit as the lever may be setting on the cam lobe in the stroked position.

 

[Birken Vogt]

15 seconds is not very long to prime some of these suckers.

Make sure you have fuel all the way to wherever it needs to be with the hand primer or whatever. Sometimes doing this more than once is necessary.

Then crank, and crank, and crank again. Of course giving the starter lots of time to cool off.

It will start if there are no leaks.

 

[512high]

Birken, and Old Iron, Thanks for taking the time to reply, Im afraid of killing the batteries, do you suggest 20 seconds of cranking, stop wait how long before i try again? If no luck, primer again, etc.?

Old Iron, if i don't have any luck in the am, i have a friend who will send his mechanic over maybe friday he said same think may have to release supply line to injector, i just feel embrarrased that i can't get this thing to go, despite diesel fuel here and there on the shop floor etc, my ego is hurt..

15 seconds is not very long to prime some of these suckers.

Make sure you have fuel all the way to wherever it needs to be with the hand primer or whatever. Sometimes doing this more than once is necessary.

Then crank, and crank, and crank again. Of course giving the starter lots of time to cool off.

It will start if there are no leaks.

 

[Delmer]

Put a charger on the battery and crank it for 15 seconds at a time, wait until the amps goes below 10 before you crank again, that will protect the battery and the starter.

Once you get air in the injection lines, it will not pump out by cranking. You need to loosen an injection line at the injector and crank it until you clean fuel with no bubbles. Just a half turn on ONE injection line nut is usually enough, be careful not to twist the injector itself, use two wrenches. This is assuming you have a traditional injection pump with one injection line going to one injector for each cylinder, don't know what that engine is, much less the fuel system. Pics might help.

Next time, change the filters after it's been run long enough to have all fluids warmed up, after you change filters and bleed the air, start it and run at full speed with no load for a minute, or as long as it takes to smooth out after the sputters.

 

[Birken Vogt]

Once you get air in the injection lines, it will not pump out by cranking. You need to loosen an injection line at the injector and crank it until you clean fuel with no bubbles.

I think I only ever had to do that once on a Cat 3208 where I could only bleed 2 or 3 injector lines easily. Everything else has always voluntarily started itself with no messing with injector lines necessary.

 

[512high]

Delmer thank you for responding, , someone else stated run the machine for about 5 minutes, then do they fuel filter change...why is that? and would this have been much easier for me?

Put a charger on the battery and crank it for 15 seconds at a time, wait until the amps goes below 10 before you crank again, that will protect the battery and the starter.

Once you get air in the injection lines, it will not pump out by cranking. You need to loosen an injection line at the injector and crank it until you clean fuel with no bubbles. Just a half turn on ONE injection line nut is usually enough, be careful not to twist the injector itself, use two wrenches. This is assuming you have a traditional injection pump with one injection line going to one injector for each cylinder, don't know what that engine is, much less the fuel system. Pics might help.

Next time, change the filters after it's been run long enough to have all fluids warmed up, after you change filters and bleed the air, start it and run at full speed with no load for a minute, or as long as it takes to smooth out after the sputters.

 

[512high]

so birken, if i try to start it say two times, go about 15-20 seconds each time and still no luck, do i have to remove bleeder screw , pump to remove air, start all over??

I think I only ever had to do that once on a Cat 3208 where I could only bleed 2 or 3 injector lines easily. Everything else has always voluntarily started itself with no messing with injector lines necessary.

 

[Delmer]

A hot engine will start easy and run on one or two cylinders until the others catch. All of the fluids at operating temp makes less drag on the hydraulics, torque converter, trans. Running at full speed give you that little bit extra time for it to work the air through before it dies.

I don't know if it would have made a difference in your case or not, it sounds like you bled the air with a priming pump after changing the filters, so I don't know why it got air?

 

[512high]

lol ..tommorow is another day, thank god its in the shop, I'm sure it can be fixed/repaired

 

[512high]

***********SOLVED! Good Morning, I want to thank EVERYONE that responded to my request for help, it bothered me all night, went to the shop at 645am, I cranked this time for 30 seconds, nothing, waited a minute or so, at just about 30 seconds it sputtered, waited again, finally after 20 seconds it took, sounded like chitty bang bang! moved out of shop ran idel to 1500 rpm for a minute, and let it idle for 20 minutes, brought in shop, shut down, re started no issues.

I cant thank you all enough for your help and knowledge.

Philip