profrooky
Well-Known Member
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- Thread starter roddyo
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profrooky
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the quick reply lantraxco......
I would like to find a straight fitting to eliminate the flow control valve and see what happens. I also need a shut off solenoid. Where is a good place to get that?
I would like to find a straight fitting to eliminate the flow control valve and see what happens. I also need a shut off solenoid. Where is a good place to get that?
Any forklift parts outfit will carry them, or some propane dealers do car conversions, etc. Of course online.
This place has several choices: https://www.propanecarbs.com/impco/fl-219solenoidvalve.html
Problem you may have is finding one that will flow enough gas to do the job, most of the solenoid valves are only 1/4" pipe or 3/8" at best. Might be a special order kinda thing.
This place has several choices: https://www.propanecarbs.com/impco/fl-219solenoidvalve.html
Problem you may have is finding one that will flow enough gas to do the job, most of the solenoid valves are only 1/4" pipe or 3/8" at best. Might be a special order kinda thing.
profrooky
Well-Known Member
It's 3/4 pipe going into the regulator.
It must be set up for flowing enough vapour with a solenoid valve on it.
It must be set up for flowing enough vapour with a solenoid valve on it.
willie59
Administrator
I'm not real familiar with that type of vapor system. Is that an adjustable orifice in between the regulator and the carb?
I've seen those before and always assumed it was exactly that, to set maximum fuel flow? Never took one off or messed with it though.
Okay, looks like a Maxitrol regulator, probably a 52 here's a couple links:
http://www.partsfortechs.com/asapcart/impco-imp53-maxitrol-gas-regulator-1npt-imp53-p-1179.html
http://www.partsfortechs.com/asapca...eplaces-generac-051109-imp52-es401-p-555.html
willie59
Administrator
Well, that's why I gave my comment a preface that I know little about these vapor systems, but on many propane carbs you have a power mixture valve, an adjustable orifice for lack of better words, that's adjusted with engine at high RPM at full load. I was just wondering if that's what the fitting is in between regulator and carb in post #19.
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willie59
Administrator
Yep, that's what I find on the typical liquid systems with a vapor convertor, you adjust the power valve at the carb at high RPM/full load. Just wondering if that's the problem profrooky is having. :beatsme
profrooky
Well-Known Member
Hey All:
I set both the power valve and the regulator to spec and still acted the same.
Until I get the tank flow control to not stop flow when it increases I can't really know what those adjustments will do.
Stay tuned.
willie59
Administrator
Well, good to hear the update, and I'm certainly not the expert on that type of system, which makes me curious about that valve at the tank, almost sounds like some kind of velocity fuse that prevents rapid release of propane if a hose were to rupture, curious of what the actual function of that valve is.
profrooky
Well-Known Member
Hey Willie:
Ya basically that's it's purpose. If you've turned on a propane bbq tank too fast you'll know how they work. Until you shut the tank off and the pressure bleeds off to release the valve the flow is choked off.
Seems like a pretty simple valve actually, we tried to drill it out today and seems like a check ball that seats if the flow is too high.
I would like to get a hose end without this valve and see what happens.
Ya basically that's it's purpose. If you've turned on a propane bbq tank too fast you'll know how they work. Until you shut the tank off and the pressure bleeds off to release the valve the flow is choked off.
Seems like a pretty simple valve actually, we tried to drill it out today and seems like a check ball that seats if the flow is too high.
I would like to get a hose end without this valve and see what happens.
Does your tank have the new style OPD valve?
Here's a quote about those and their functions:
1. overflow float that stops the filling process before the cylinder is filled past the 80% Max. This float is also designed to stop flow in the event the cylinder is tipped. A tipped cylinder w/o the OPD would dispense liquid and is a very dangerous situation.
2. Is a over FLOW check, this is in reality a velocity fuse, and is incorporated in the valve(opd) to stop the gas flow from cylinder in the event of a major leak. an example of this would be a blown hose, or a hose burned off by a fire. This is the feature that gives us problems when we open the tank valve to fast, and is recommended by some to only open the valve 360 deg, or 1 full turn then adjust your ned for more heat by opening the tank valve more. I myself have elected to make it a practice of opening the tank valve very slowly the 1st turn, then open it fully from there.
3. Is the discharge check, This feature prevents gas from being dispensed from the cylinder without having a device hooked to it. This feature can cause low flow problems if the connection isn't fully seated(tightened properly), or it might have the wrong seal ring on it preventing full opening of the discharge check.
My 100# tank for my shop heater still has the old POL (Prest-O-Lite) valve, no safeties there!
Here's a quote about those and their functions:
1. overflow float that stops the filling process before the cylinder is filled past the 80% Max. This float is also designed to stop flow in the event the cylinder is tipped. A tipped cylinder w/o the OPD would dispense liquid and is a very dangerous situation.
2. Is a over FLOW check, this is in reality a velocity fuse, and is incorporated in the valve(opd) to stop the gas flow from cylinder in the event of a major leak. an example of this would be a blown hose, or a hose burned off by a fire. This is the feature that gives us problems when we open the tank valve to fast, and is recommended by some to only open the valve 360 deg, or 1 full turn then adjust your ned for more heat by opening the tank valve more. I myself have elected to make it a practice of opening the tank valve very slowly the 1st turn, then open it fully from there.
3. Is the discharge check, This feature prevents gas from being dispensed from the cylinder without having a device hooked to it. This feature can cause low flow problems if the connection isn't fully seated(tightened properly), or it might have the wrong seal ring on it preventing full opening of the discharge check.
My 100# tank for my shop heater still has the old POL (Prest-O-Lite) valve, no safeties there!
Birken Vogt
Charter Member
OK, there are some wrong assumptions going on here.
1. The protection ball in the POL adapter will only drop momentarily when opened extremely rapidly. If you open the tank valve wide, as you should, with no draw, then it will quickly drop closed and then drop back open again when pressure equalizes which takes a few seconds at most. Then it will stay open unless the draw is extremely excessive, we are talking a 100kw machine loaded down, or more. So the regulating with the hand wheel is actually telling you that you are getting too much fuel, not too little, I believe from my view of this over the internet. Post a video I suppose for better confirmation. You could also try turning in the load block adjustment you have there between the reg and carb but mark it first so you can put it back if this theory is bunk.
2. The vaporization rate of a propane cylinder is something that happens over a long period of time, not right away. I frequently test large machines off a 5 gallon BBQ bottle and they run fine until it begins to ice up which takes many minutes. Run a cold water hose on the tank and it will run until empty with no problem.
Are you running high pressure propane right into the regulator that is attached to the carb? If so then you need to run 12" WC propane there, need another regulator at the tank to regulate to "house" pressure. Also, I can't see inside that Maxitrol regulator but usually the spring is removed and those are mounted with the nose pointed downward just before the carb to act as a demand regulator.
Let me see some more pictures of the total fuel system including the tank, and drilling out the flow ball is the right thing to do if you haven't done it already.
1. The protection ball in the POL adapter will only drop momentarily when opened extremely rapidly. If you open the tank valve wide, as you should, with no draw, then it will quickly drop closed and then drop back open again when pressure equalizes which takes a few seconds at most. Then it will stay open unless the draw is extremely excessive, we are talking a 100kw machine loaded down, or more. So the regulating with the hand wheel is actually telling you that you are getting too much fuel, not too little, I believe from my view of this over the internet. Post a video I suppose for better confirmation. You could also try turning in the load block adjustment you have there between the reg and carb but mark it first so you can put it back if this theory is bunk.
2. The vaporization rate of a propane cylinder is something that happens over a long period of time, not right away. I frequently test large machines off a 5 gallon BBQ bottle and they run fine until it begins to ice up which takes many minutes. Run a cold water hose on the tank and it will run until empty with no problem.
Are you running high pressure propane right into the regulator that is attached to the carb? If so then you need to run 12" WC propane there, need another regulator at the tank to regulate to "house" pressure. Also, I can't see inside that Maxitrol regulator but usually the spring is removed and those are mounted with the nose pointed downward just before the carb to act as a demand regulator.
Let me see some more pictures of the total fuel system including the tank, and drilling out the flow ball is the right thing to do if you haven't done it already.
profrooky
Well-Known Member
I will send more pics Monday and am also leaning toward eliminating the flow ball. With nothing connected to the tank you can open the tank valve and lots of propane flows freely. Put the hose back on (with POL adapter) and slowly open the tank propane will flow. Open it more than 1/2 turn and it stops. I assume this is the flow ball restrictor doing its job.
Thanks for the help.
I know I didn't reply right but my comments are in bold......
profrooky
Well-Known Member
Hi Lan: The tank is brand new so I assume its got the OPD valve. The problem appears to be in the fitting on the end of the hose where it threads into the tank. I need one of those old school valves.
Thanks for the info.
Thanks for the info.
Birken Vogt
Charter Member
What is the model number on the carb? And what is the model number of the whole genset?
But for sure before any more testing you need to get a 11" regulator on the tank. Drilling out the ball won't hurt, but I don't think it is any issue here. But that demand regulator can't handle tank pressure. You might need a bigger hose between the tank regulator and the demand regulator, though. That looked like about a 1/4" hose and 1/2 to 3/4 would be more appropriate. Any old hose will do for testing purposes if you are safe about your connections of course....
But for sure before any more testing you need to get a 11" regulator on the tank. Drilling out the ball won't hurt, but I don't think it is any issue here. But that demand regulator can't handle tank pressure. You might need a bigger hose between the tank regulator and the demand regulator, though. That looked like about a 1/4" hose and 1/2 to 3/4 would be more appropriate. Any old hose will do for testing purposes if you are safe about your connections of course....
profrooky
Well-Known Member
I'll add a couple more pics.
So that regulator shouldn't see any more than 11" WC?
profrooky
Well-Known Member
11"?
So it says right there........duh!
So it says right there........duh!