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How do I remove this hose????

ottawamerc

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Joined
Aug 11, 2008
Messages
56
Location
Kemptville, Ontario
Hey guys Today I blew one of my hydraulic hoses on my KX91-3, one that goes to the arm piston. I'm at a loss as to how you loosen off the nut at the control stack?? It looks like it is a 22mm nut but theres no way to get a spanner in there. I tried cutting a 7/8 box wrench to be like a brake line fitting wrench but its a bit sloppy and wont work. What tool do I need to get that loose? I would add pics but I cant get them off of my phone right now.

Scott
 

simonsrplant

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 10, 2014
Messages
560
Location
Alberta CANADA
Occupation
Heavy Duty Off Road RSE
Think I get where you are coming from... If so, I've a selection of ring spanners with half cut out. An open end ring spanner if you will. It gives tight access and ability to slide onto a pipe or fitting the along, into the hex. I'll try to get a picture
Good luck
 

simonsrplant

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Feb 10, 2014
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Alberta CANADA
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Heavy Duty Off Road RSE
Mark up the hoses, I like tip ex but anything will do, maybe use your pictures too. keep taking them off till you get access. Ensure you keep the hoses and block clean. If the hoses are fairly aged you should find they naturally want to sit where they belong, but that's a bonus, don't count on it.
Good luck
 

kshansen

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Mar 11, 2012
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11,270
Location
Central New York, USA
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Retired Mechanic in Stone Quarry
One thing that works to mark lines is go to an auto parts store and get an assortment of colored zip ties different color on each hose. If needed use two different colors on some then take another picture. That way you have a map as to where they go.

Just have to take off one at a time till you can get the one you really need to remove then reverse the order on reassembly.

And YES do make sure all implements are on ground and pressure release before disconnecting anything. Take key out and put it in your pocket so no one can try starting it while you have it apart.
 

ottawamerc

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Joined
Aug 11, 2008
Messages
56
Location
Kemptville, Ontario
Ok I some hoses out of the way but I still cant get this one to budge:Banghead I'm thinking about trying to cut the steel line to get a wrench on it, using heat but I'm afraid of damaging any O rings Could it be in with lock tite?

IMG_1125.jpg

The steel tube has some movement (swivel) to it?
 

simonsrplant

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Feb 10, 2014
Messages
560
Location
Alberta CANADA
Occupation
Heavy Duty Off Road RSE
If the the one in the middle of that picture, I would take out the fitting to the left, put an open ended spanner on the hose end and shock it with a hammer. Assuming there is access. I personally don't like heat near valve blocks, but have done on rare occasions. It is unlikely to be loctite, fitting are self seal 90% of the time, just effing tight.
 

kshansen

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Mar 11, 2012
Messages
11,270
Location
Central New York, USA
Occupation
Retired Mechanic in Stone Quarry
If the the one in the middle of that picture, I would take out the fitting to the left, put an open ended spanner on the hose end and shock it with a hammer. Assuming there is access. I personally don't like heat near valve blocks, but have done on rare occasions. It is unlikely to be loctite, fitting are self seal 90% of the time, just effing tight.

I agree, remove the fitting to the left. I'm assuming this hose is going to be scraped? If so as maybe a next to last resort take a chisel and holding it at the right angle hit it in the direction to turn the nut. I don't like the idea of cutting the line due to the possibility of getting chips in to the valve and causing problems later. But if it comes to that I think I would cut it up near the crimp to the hose and then you should be able to slip a box end (ring spanner) over the tubing section and remove it.
 

Scrub Puller

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Joined
Mar 29, 2009
Messages
3,481
Location
Gladstone Queensland Australia
Yair . . . ottawamerc.


As simonsrplant mentions and, if no joy see if you can fabricate/bend a drift to give the b*****d a meaningful clout on the flats with a four pound hammer . . . try and position the drift a little off centre on the flat so that it applies the shock in the left hand loosy direction . . . you may need an off-sider to hold the drift in position.

In desperation, and using that technique I have even gone real butcherous and welded a cold chisel into a piece of heavy wall one inch pipe to get a recalcitrant fitting out of a valve bank on a dredge.

Woops! kshansen beat me to it . . . and I can't edit it out this bloody bold font.

Cheers.
 
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grandpa

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 15, 2009
Messages
1,980
Location
northern minnesota
One thing that works to mark lines is go to an auto parts store and get an assortment of colored zip ties different color on each hose. If needed use two different colors on some then take another picture. That way you have a map as to where they go.

Just have to take off one at a time till you can get the one you really need to remove then reverse the order on reassembly.

And YES do make sure all implements are on ground and pressure release before disconnecting anything. Take key out and put it in your pocket so no one can try starting it while you have it apart.
I use the colored wire out of telephone cables ,,,,,, I seem to find stretches of it easily during the construction season. :eek:
 

ottawamerc

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2008
Messages
56
Location
Kemptville, Ontario
Thanks guys for the replys. I will try the wrench and hammer technique on it atleast it will give me some joy to beat on the damn thing for a bit!!!
 

lantraxco

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Joined
Jan 1, 2009
Messages
7,704
Location
Elsewhen
I use the colored wire out of telephone cables ,,,,,, I seem to find stretches of it easily during the construction season. :eek:

With the teeth on your bucket? LOL, that's my luck. As long as it's not orange or yellow poly pipe!
 

Nige

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Jun 22, 2011
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30,184
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G..G..G..Granville.........!! Fetch your cloth.
If the the one in the middle of that picture, I would take out the fitting to the left, put an open ended spanner on the hose end and shock it with a hammer. Assuming there is access. I personally don't like heat near valve blocks, but have done on rare occasions. It is unlikely to be loctite, fitting are self seal 90% of the time, just effing tight.
Another vote for taking out the adapter on the left to let you get a direct fit with a wrench onto the swivel nut of the hose end fitting on the right. That would be the accepted way of doing it.
 

1466IH

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 4, 2014
Messages
613
Location
prairie du rocher, il
Something i have done may times if the space allows for it is to use a good sharp punch or flat chisel for the air hammer and go straight town into the fitting until you have something to catch the point on then angle the hammer so it is hitting the right direction to spin it free. The vibration of the hammer does wonders. I have always owned ford trucks and have yet to buy the fan clutch wrench. i also use this technique if i dont have enough room for a wrench and can just slip a chisel into a tight area and hammer away until i can get it by hand
 

OCR

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Feb 21, 2008
Messages
1,195
Location
Montana
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Rancher/Farmer, Wildland Fire Fighter, State snowp
Yair . . . ottawamerc.


As simonsrplant mentions and, if no joy see if you can fabricate/bend a drift to give the b*****d a meaningful clout on the flats with a four pound hammer . . . try and position the drift a little off centre on the flat so that it applies the shock in the left hand loosy direction . . . you may need an off-sider to hold the drift in position.

In desperation, and using that technique I have even gone real butcherous and welded a cold chisel into a piece of heavy wall one inch pipe to get a recalcitrant fitting out of a valve bank on a dredge.

Woops! kshansen beat me to it . . . and I can't edit it out this bloody bold font.

Cheers.

Lol, that's happened to me before, too... "and I can't edit it out this bloody bold font".


That better?





OCR
 

kshansen

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 11, 2012
Messages
11,270
Location
Central New York, USA
Occupation
Retired Mechanic in Stone Quarry
Something i have done may times if the space allows for it is to use a good sharp punch or flat chisel for the air hammer and go straight town into the fitting until you have something to catch the point on then angle the hammer so it is hitting the right direction to spin it free.

I was holding back on that suggestion till the last resort! To be honest just this Wednesday and again Thursday I had to resort to that technique on a Cat 350L drive motor! Two hoses were so rusted there was hardly any hex left on the fittings. This was after having to torch what was left of the heads of the bolts for the spit flanges for the main hoses to the motor. Sometimes you just have to get violent to show things who is boss.
 

OCR

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 21, 2008
Messages
1,195
Location
Montana
Occupation
Rancher/Farmer, Wildland Fire Fighter, State snowp
Yair . . . ottawamerc .


As simonsrplant mentions and, if no joy see if you can fabricate/bend a drift to give the b*****d a meaningful clout on the flats with a four pound hammer . . . try and position the drift a little off centre on the flat so that it applies the shock in the left hand loosy direction . . . you may need an off-sider to hold the drift in position.

In desperation, and using that technique I have even gone real butcherous and welded a cold chisel into a piece of heavy wall one inch pipe to get a recalcitrant fitting out of a valve bank on a dredge.

Woops! kshansen beat me to it . . . and I can't edit it out this bloody bold font.

Cheers.

ottawamerc[/ B] .
Put a space here...[SUP][/SUP] ... between the [ /B] and the period.

Works sometimes, at least for me... :)

Preview your post, and you can move the period back one space if every thing looks ok... usually.




OCR




PS: Grandpa taught me all that stuff... :lmao
 
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