Ideas to remove stuck hydro cylinder pin on forklift?

[fastline]

Put in general as this is not really equipment specific, but we have a problem! Need to repack tilt cylinder on a 9K fork. Not usually a big deal but one pin, of course a rear, is super frozen! These pins are just straight pins with a small notch where a keeper is bolted to the side. Super simple design. On the others I was able to drive them inward to break them free, then pull them back out without too much issue.

However, one is very frozen. Even with a 20# sledge and pipe, that pin is not moving! It is a very tight space where running a torch is concerning. At least 3 hydro hoses basically sit against the back of the pin.

Just looking for ideas? Something maybe I have not considered? I was thinking about a custom puller but I think this will take considerable force to move it.

Likely all of this is from a lifetime of zero grease.

 

[MarshallPowerGen]

Lotta heat. Lotta penetrating oil. Sledge. More heat. Big air hammer. More heat. Weld a stud and porta-power.

Was usually the sequence of events until the lance came out.

 

[terex herder]

You don't have to poke clear through with the lance or torch to get the pin loose.

 

[OzDozer]

Try some Loctite Freeze and Release, concentrated on the pin.

 

[Delmer]

Pictures would help. Sometimes drilling a hole through, then heating it with a cutting torch will heat it enough to "upset" the metal so it shrinks when cool and comes out. If not, then get the stuff out of the way or covered, and hit the oxygen just enough to blow the hole bigger, then it will come out.

Sometimes a sawzall blade will fit between the cylinder and ears and cut the pin into three pieces, and only two will be stuck, and easier to loosen separate.

 

[OzDozer]

He's trying to avoid lots of heat and flame - and with good reason. Everything on forklifts is a tight clearance, and there will be any amount of easily damaged components and hoses right near to the pin.

A small hydraulic press ram, blocked up and pushing from the opposite side of the forklift (if there's room) is also a suitable option. Even a 10-ton body repair hydraulic cylinder might be enough.

 

[terex herder]

Could you repack the cylinder without removing the barrel from the machine? If the pin is seized in both the frame and the barrel where the cylinder won't rotate freely the pin must come out. That situation would explain why the cylinder is leaking.

IME, if a 20# sledge won't move the pin, a 20 ton cylinder won't either.

 

[HarleyHappy]

Having done this before, sawzall is best bet and that’s if you can slide the cylinder side to side for the blade to fit.
Forklifts ARE a fire hazard, period.

 

[OzDozer]

A 20# sledgehammer is certainly capable of delivering a lot more tonnage than a 20 ton cylinder - but a sledgehammer hit is only effective when it's an excellent direct hit, delivered via a solid drift, and with the part holding the pin, very solidly blocked against springing.

If you land regular poor hits, delivered via a low quality drift (and pipe doesn't rate as a good drift, IMO), and the ears holding the pin are springing with each hit, you're whistling in the wind.

 

[HarleyHappy]

Hard to swing anything under a forklift with any might.
On those tilt pins, it’s usually a offset wear ring that won’t let it move.
Usually a jack under the mast side will help it slide out.
The pin under the fulcrum is hard to grease but is rarely seized in the ears.
I would try some movement to see if there is a better position to get it out.
I’ve had good luck tilting the mast onto a block or stand to change some weight around.

 

[terex herder]

True on the drifts. I have a couple of good drifts with 1 or 1 1/4 wire rope for handles.

 

[OzDozer]

A couple of years ago, my trucker neighbour was trying to remove the Pitman arm from the steering box of his big cabover Isuzu (truck tractor), because the ball on the arm was worn, and he had a new arm to go on it.
He and a buddy holding the drift, were at it for over half an hour with a 14# sledge, with not even the slightest sign of success.

Feeling sorry for him, I went over and showed him how the box and chassis were springing with each hit, and only solid blocking would get him anywhere.
I blocked the steering box solidly with some heavy steel, and they went at it again, and the arm sprung off the tapered spline on the 2nd hit.

 

[fastline]

We have success! Oddly, I simply returned to the scene with a night's sleep and on the 3rd smack with the sledge, that pin started moving so I drove it all the way through the back and out she came. No visible galling or anything. Because I did not heat the pin, I can reuse it. I did nick a hydro hose driving that pin though. Not real happy about that but I guess that's life.

 

[Mechanicsville804]

True on the drifts. I have a couple of good drifts with 1 or 1 1/4 wire rope for handles.

post a picture Terex

 

[Nige]

post a picture Terex

Something like this I imagine.

Excavator Bucket Pin Removal Tool (Large) for sale < eiengineering

Bucket Pin Removal Tool (Large). Ideal for removing & replacing pins on Excavator Bucket Teeth and Ripper Boots safely. Available in 2 sizes.

www.eiengineering.com.au

 

[OzDozer]

I love hearing a success story! Nothing like getting to a curly job refreshed and fed, and raring to go!

 

[chidog]

That is the best way to solve a problem, if at first you don't succeed give up. Maybe it will work the next day.

 

[Mechanicsville804]

Something like this I imagine.

Excavator Bucket Pin Removal Tool (Large) for sale < eiengineering

Bucket Pin Removal Tool (Large). Ideal for removing & replacing pins on Excavator Bucket Teeth and Ripper Boots safely. Available in 2 sizes.

www.eiengineering.com.au

Awesome, Thanks Nige, I've never seen this tool.

 

[terex herder]

Here are mine. I didn't realize how badly the larger punch needs dressed.

 

[Mechanicsville804]

Here are mine. I didn't realize how badly the larger punch needs dressed.View attachment 296991

Thanks for showing me what you use, I'll have to make some if I get in need.