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JD 310D fuel supply question

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Eric Forstrom

Active Member
Joined
Dec 1, 2022
Messages
41
Location
Jemez Springs, NM
Hey all, on to the next problem on my basket case John Deere 310d. Since installing the recirc heater, it will start right up, but only runs for 4-5 seconds before dying. Then I have to crank it for a couple of cycles before it will start and run normally. I would say it is running out of fuel after the injection pumps out the pressure it has?? Then the lift pump has to pull fuel from the tank and pump it to the IP. Does this sound like the lift pump check valves are not working?
 
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Delmer

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2013
Messages
8,909
Location
WI
Check the rubber hoses between the tank and the lift pump. they crack and leak air, you can re use the fittings by cutting the ferrule off and using regular rubber fuel line with hose clamps, or get a new hose made at any place that makes hydraulic hoses. Might check to see if there's a screen in the tank also.

If it runs good once it finally starts and stays, then I'd guess the lift pump is fine.
 
boone

boone

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 25, 2009
Messages
1,047
Location
AL
I just went through this on my 310SE. I set the parts bomb off under mine and now I have a whole new fuel system :)

Do what Delmer said, will save you lots of money. At least start there.

Even though my line wasn't leaking fuel, it was porous enough to let air in.

 
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Eric Forstrom

Active Member
Joined
Dec 1, 2022
Messages
41
Location
Jemez Springs, NM
Delmer said:
Check the rubber hoses between the tank and the lift pump. they crack and leak air, you can re use the fittings by cutting the ferrule off and using regular rubber fuel line with hose clamps, or get a new hose made at any place that makes hydraulic hoses. Might check to see if there's a screen in the tank also.

If it runs good once it finally starts and stays, then I'd guess the lift pump is fine.
Click to expand...
I installed new rubber hoses between the tank and lift pump and between the lift pump and fuel filter recently, so I don't think that is the problem. I have not checked for a screen in the tank, I will do that tomorrow. There is an old cobbled together, hose and tubing line that runs from the fuel filter to the injection pump, I was going to change that to a hose also. I will let you know how it turns out.
 
boone

boone

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 25, 2009
Messages
1,047
Location
AL
The symptoms I had were once running it was fine. I was getting very small bubbles in the fuel system. Couldn't see them without a flash light behind clear tube. Once it shut off, I guess the air accumulated in the IP. The next start would have enough pressure to run for a few seconds until the air got into the high pressure lines. Then it lost prime. I would have to crank on it for awhile to get prime back and it would run fine again until it shut off. Mine started off intermittent, but got progressively worse.

When you installed new rubber hoses, did you happen to remove the union (#2) in Tinkerer's post? The reason I ask is when I removed mine and replaced with new orings (#3 and #4) and the new fuel line, I didn't get the union tight enough and even with the new line on it was still pulling air until I torqued it to what felt like 125 ft-lbs. I couldn't find a torque spec for it.

Mine is all steel lines on the other side of the transfer pump. I suppose you could get air in their, but I would think you'd see fuel since that's a pressure side. The transfer pump is not terribly expensive. That was the first thing I replaced.
 
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Eric Forstrom

Active Member
Joined
Dec 1, 2022
Messages
41
Location
Jemez Springs, NM
boone said:
The symptoms I had were once running it was fine. I was getting very small bubbles in the fuel system. Couldn't see them without a flash light behind clear tube. Once it shut off, I guess the air accumulated in the IP. The next start would have enough pressure to run for a few seconds until the air got into the high pressure lines. Then it lost prime. I would have to crank on it for awhile to get prime back and it would run fine again until it shut off. Mine started off intermittent, but got progressively worse.

When you installed new rubber hoses, did you happen to remove the union (#2) in Tinkerer's post? The reason I ask is when I removed mine and replaced with new orings (#3 and #4) and the new fuel line, I didn't get the union tight enough and even with the new line on it was still pulling air until I torqued it to what felt like 125 ft-lbs. I couldn't find a torque spec for it.

Mine is all steel lines on the other side of the transfer pump. I suppose you could get air in their, but I would think you'd see fuel since that's a pressure side. The transfer pump is not terribly expensive. That was the first thing I replaced.
Click to expand...
Hey Boone, that is exactly what my backhoe is doing. I have not pulled the union out of the tank, going outside to do that now, so I will check that out. Like I said there is a hose/steel tube assembly going from the fuel filter to the IP, I will check that out also.
 
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Eric Forstrom

Active Member
Joined
Dec 1, 2022
Messages
41
Location
Jemez Springs, NM
So I cleaned out the strainer in the tank and the union was on super tight. I had to lower the fuel tank and put my impact on it, but I got it off and installed new o-rings. I changed out all the suspect fuel lines with new hose and found a loose fitting on the back of the fuel filter. I also found that the fuel filter bleeder was a little loose. The backhoe starts up pretty well now. Thank you all for the help, now on to the next issue....
 
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