• Thank you for visiting HeavyEquipmentForums.com! Our objective is to provide industry professionals a place to gather to exchange questions, answers and ideas. We welcome you to register using the "Register" icon at the top of the page. We'd appreciate any help you can offer in spreading the word of our new site. The more members that join, the bigger resource for all to enjoy. Thank you!

JD 410 engine problems after rebuild

Burns-Tractor

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 29, 2010
Messages
49
Location
Burns Ks
Ok I finally finished the complete engine rebuild on my JD 410 (straight 410).
I'm now trying to start it for the first time and it seems like it is blowing air out of the intake and it is making a popping sound out the intake?
My timing should be correct, I put paint marks on all the gears before I disassembled them and I lined up all the marks when I put it back together.
This engine was torn down to a empty block and everything that went back in was new. I had the head and valves done by a shop so I know everything is good there.
Does anyone have any ideas?
I have far to much money in this to give up now.
Thanks for any help
 

thepumpguysc

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 18, 2010
Messages
7,668
Location
Sunny South Carolina
Occupation
Master Inj.Pump rebuilder
I have a question..
When u marked the gears for the inj. pump, did u pull the gear with or without the pump drive shaft.
I ask this silly question because,
It’s easier BUT.. the drive shaft has to b times to the pump and it’s SUPER EASY to get it 180* out of time which would explain ALL YOUR SYMPTOMS..
If u wanna check it..
Pull the pump..
Look at the end of the drive shaft u see a dot on the end..
Now look inside the pump, there’s another dot... THE DOTS HAVE TO MATCH.. dot to dot..
I sure hope that’s all it is...
Good luck.
 

thepumpguysc

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 18, 2010
Messages
7,668
Location
Sunny South Carolina
Occupation
Master Inj.Pump rebuilder
Some of the drive shafts for certain models STAY IN the pump and won’t come out unless forced..
In which case, never mind...
If u want to post the pump #, I’d b happy to look it up for u..
 

Burns-Tractor

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 29, 2010
Messages
49
Location
Burns Ks
I have a question..
When u marked the gears for the inj. pump, did u pull the gear with or without the pump drive shaft.
I ask this silly question because,
It’s easier BUT.. the drive shaft has to b times to the pump and it’s SUPER EASY to get it 180* out of time which would explain ALL YOUR SYMPTOMS..
If u wanna check it..
Pull the pump..
Look at the end of the drive shaft u see a dot on the end..
Now look inside the pump, there’s another dot... THE DOTS HAVE TO MATCH.. dot to dot..
I sure hope that’s all it is...
Good luck.

Ok that makes perfect sense, after I put all of the timing gears on I worried about getting the injection pump off a half rotation, I thought I had a 50/50 chance of being right and I guess I was wrong . What would be the easiest way to rotate the pump 180°?
Thanks so much for the help
 

Burns-Tractor

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 29, 2010
Messages
49
Location
Burns Ks
Some of the drive shafts for certain models STAY IN the pump and won’t come out unless forced..
In which case, never mind...
If u want to post the pump #, I’d b happy to look it up for u..

Here is a picture of the serial tag.
Thank you for your help
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20211009_144153_336.jpg
    IMG_20211009_144153_336.jpg
    4 MB · Views: 13

Burns-Tractor

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 29, 2010
Messages
49
Location
Burns Ks
Some of the drive shafts for certain models STAY IN the pump and won’t come out unless forced..
In which case, never mind...
If u want to post the pump #, I’d b happy to look it up for u..

The shaft slides right out of the pump, I believe the gear is pressed onto the shaft
 
Last edited:

thepumpguysc

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 18, 2010
Messages
7,668
Location
Sunny South Carolina
Occupation
Master Inj.Pump rebuilder
The absolute best way is to pull the pump off..
Look at the end of the drive shaft and into the pump & match the dots..
If they are indeed off 180*, just reach inside the pump w a screwdriver and turn the inside of the pump.. DO NOT BUMP THE ENGINE.!!
 

Burns-Tractor

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 29, 2010
Messages
49
Location
Burns Ks
The absolute best way is to pull the pump off..
Look at the end of the drive shaft and into the pump & match the dots..
If they are indeed off 180*, just reach inside the pump w a screwdriver and turn the inside of the pump.. DO NOT BUMP THE ENGINE.!!

Thanks, I'll get it pulled apart today and see what it looks like
 

Burns-Tractor

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 29, 2010
Messages
49
Location
Burns Ks
Ok, today I got the pump pulled and the dots were not lined up. I rotated the pump a half turn and reassembled.
The engine is now blowing some black smoke out the exhaust but it is not starting. However it is also blowing back out the intake? I'm wondering about a stuck valve? Although this engine had the head redone with all new valves but the engine sat for 6 months in a 3 walled garden shed with a tarp over it.
I'm thinking maybe with the humidity made a valve stick? I'll pull the valve cover off tomorrow and see what it looks like.
I also gave this engine a shot of WD-40 and it would not fire on it.
Any other ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks for your time and trouble
 

Burns-Tractor

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 29, 2010
Messages
49
Location
Burns Ks
There is always a possibility lol
I did put paint marks on all the gears and I lined them all up when I went back together so it should be correct.
I replaced the camshaft but the gear only goes on one way.
Although the engine is blowing back out the intake it is also puffing smoke out the exhaust. I'll check the valves tomorrow and if that's not it then I'll dig deeper.
Thanks for the help
 

Tinkerer

Senior Member
Joined
May 21, 2009
Messages
9,445
Location
The shore of the illinois river USA
Burns-Tractor;
Do you happen to have a series of videos on YouTube ?
Your identical problem with a 410 is on there.
The poster has paint marks on the gears like you described.
He still doesn't have his running.
 

Willie B

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 2, 2016
Messages
4,089
Location
Mount Tabor VT
Occupation
Electrician
Years back I rebuilt a tractor engine, a BD144 in a B275 utility tractor. Injector pump timing I did step by step as the manual called for. Two very competent mechanics rechecked my work. Still, it didn't work. I went to the best engine rebuilder in the area. My manual was I&T, his was International Harvester. He walked me through timing procedure, word for word what the manual called for. He didn't believe either manual. It was a big job to move the timing gears, I had to split the tractor again, but I did what Jack told me to do & it worked to move the gear 1 tooth.
 

Tinkerer

Senior Member
Joined
May 21, 2009
Messages
9,445
Location
The shore of the illinois river USA
I watched the videos. I think the camshaft timing could be off.
Weren't there any factory-stamped timing marks on the gears ????
Was #1 cylinder turned up to TDC on the compression stroke when you painted those marks ?
If it wasn't when you realigned the IP timing marks that may have created another issue.
IMHO! which is worth what you paid for it.
 

mg2361

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2016
Messages
5,293
Location
Pennsylvania
Occupation
Equipment Mechanic
The only timing marks will be on the cam gear and the injection pump gear. None of the others have marks (exception would be crank and balancer shafts if it has those).

To properly time the engine #1 has to be TDC with the flywheel pinned. Then a tool (JD254, see below) is used to align the marks on the cam and injection pump to the crankshaft (I have successfully timed with a straight edge as well, but it is easier with the tool).

JD 254 Timing Tool.png
 
Top