JLG 40 H govenor works randomly

[willie59]

One more thing; what's connected to terminal 30 of the governor relay?

 

[mark3885]

One more thing; what's connected to terminal 30 of the governor relay?

Looks like light blue/ white stripe

 

[mark3885]

It sounds like you have a number of issues going on at the same time, it's going to take some time to sort through all this so be patient. First of all, I've got to get this wiring sorted out in my head, given the crappy schematics JLG made for this one. I need some help as to which wire is going where. I'd like to make the madness a little more simple by focusing on one thing at a time, other issues will follow. For now, let's forget about high engine while driving and focus on mid range engine speed.

It looks like the red wire on mid range board is going to terminal 14 on terminal strip, that would be one of the ingition terminals. Black wire is going to terminal 18, that is ground terminal. The one I can't tell for sure where it goes is the white wire, looks like it goes to 87A on high engine relay, is that correct? Also, would there be a yellow wire connected to terminal 87 on high engine relay?

The wiring at the Precision Governor and actuator is really vague. Could you confirm the wiring at these components:

Precision Governor terminal 1, yellow wire, to terminal 4 of engine compartment terminal strip
PG term 2, brown, to term1 of strip
PG 3, orn/blk, 13 strip
PG 4, wht/orn, 5 strip
PG 5, wht, 14 strip

throttle actuator:
yellow wire to 4 of terminal strip
wht/grn to 6 of strip

May have more questions, but I'm starting with these.

White goes to 87A on high engine relay No yellow on high engine relay 87 , no wires connected to 87 on high engine relay All the other wires that you asked about are what you thought they were. Lift worked good for about 20 min. today, light rain and drizzle , your theory about the sprinkler is starting to look like the only good solution.

 

[willie59]

today, light rain and drizzle , your theory about the sprinkler is starting to look like the only good solution.

LoL!

Naw, we'll noodle through this thing somehow. I'm just having difficulty with this crappy schematic. :Banghead

I'm not even seeing a blue/white on schematic, or even a white/blu if it were that. I've not quite figured out that governor relay (idle-run) because the schematic isn't real clear about it. I'm about ready to say to heck with it...figure it out later! Right now, I just want to get the mid engine speed working proper. I'll noodle through what you posted about the wiring connections to the other relays and see if something pops in my head.

Ultimately, the white wire from the mid board has got to get to, I think, terminal #5 on the E-201 precision governor, the "Aux" terminal. I'm pretty sure that's how it works. And the voltage has to be less than 12V on that terminal, a reduced voltage output from the E-244 mid board. That's what causes the E-201 to work the throttle actuator at a lower setting than would be when hi engine from drive causes hi throttle of engine. That's done by the hi engine select putting 12V on terminal #3 on E-201. I'll study this a little more and get back with you.

 

[mark3885]

The aux terminal on the e 201 is a white wire which does connect to the mid range board. The voltage at terminal 5 is 6.94 volts when the governor is offline and when its set to ground and working properly. I never have noticed a difference in the voltage readings when the governor is working or not and i check them all the time looking for some variation . What really bugs me is the fact that it works great when it rained or very damp , 10- 20 min after it warms up is when it stops working and doesn't start working again until its damp or rainy. Thanks for your help . I'll recheck the blue wire again. Mark

 

[willie59]

In a nutshell, the E-201 controller typically work something like this;

With 12V volts on term 1, and ground on term 2, it will put out a voltage signal on term 4 to the actuator. It will be a voltage signal that holds the carb linkage actuator at a low (idle) rpm.

When you apply a 12V signal to term 3, it changes the output on term 4 to actuator to rev engine to high rpm.

When you remove the 12V signal on term 3, and apply a lower voltage signal from the mid range board to term 5, then the signal output from 3 to actuator revs the engine to a lower rpm than would be for high engine speed. This lower rpm is determined by the adjustment of the trim pot on the mid range board.

What changes/switches the inputs at term 3 and 5 is the relays and the way the relays are controlled by machine functions.

That's typically how they are wired up. I can't say for sure on your machine because the schematic is a POS! That's why I'm trying to determine which wire is going where.

If your system works like I described, you should be able to narrow down your problem. I think you said when it quits working the high and mid speed doesn't work. If so, when you notice hi speed isn't working, put a 12V jumper wire on term 3 and see if it revs. Same with mid speed, check the voltage at term 5 when it's working proper, let's say it's a 6V input that gives mid speed. When it quits working, see if you lost your 6V input to term 5. Does that make sense?

 

[mark3885]

The way you describe it makes perfect sense. I have always checked the voltage at the different terminals looking for a variation when its working and when its not. I have not seen any variation in any of the voltages. Here is what I get, term 1 battery voltage 13.8- 14.4 , term 2 ground ( ran a dedicated wire to a good ground) term 3 battery voltage , (probing term 1 and 3 I get battery voltage, Term 4, 6.94V, Term 5 , battery voltage.
I checked on a few of the other wires that you asked about, White on high engine relay goes to 87A, with a brown/ black on term 86, white on term 30, no wire on 87
term 30 on the gov relay is blue / white that goes to 6 on terminal strip ( signal from gov. relay)
I'll recheck the voltages again and use a jumper wire to see if I can make it rev. I will get back to you on Monday , i'll be away all weekend. Thanks again for the info. Mark

 

[willie59]

wait a minute...you said in post #25 that terminal 5 had 6.94V, not battery voltage.

 

[mark3885]

wait a minute...you said in post #25 that terminal 5 had 6.94V, not battery voltage.

There's the variation i've been looking for. Didn't notice it, this may be my problem. I'll check it out again , I have so many numbers running through my head I can't think straight/

 

[mark3885]

My mistake, #5 has 6.9 v to it when the gov is working and when its not. Term 4 has 6.9v on ground and 2.75v on platform. When the gov was working I would get 9-13v. Here's a thought, would excess heat on the e201 controller cause it to not work? I need to replace the muffler because its blown out on the bottom and it blows exhaust onto the controller. We left the side doors open on the ground unit and it seemed to work a lot longer than usual and it wasn't wet and rainy the night before.

 

[willie59]

You could have a problem with the E-201. Can't say for sure though because I'm still not sure how your unit is wired. You mentioned term 5 had 6.94V on it, term 5 is wire from mid range board output, right? Then you mentioned term 4 had varying voltages on it, isn't term 4 connected to the throttle acutator? Also, you didn't mention term 3, is that the term that's connected to hi engine wiring? Just trying to make sure I got how yours is wired. And yes, you for sure need to replace your muffler, exhaust leaks can do all sorts of things, including melting wiring.

 

[mark3885]

Term 5 is from mid range board. Term 4 is to the actuator . Term 3 is connected to the neg side of the coil (tach lead). With heat possibly causing my problem, I might be able to move the E-201 outside of the engine compartment to keep it cool ,just for a test. The gov usually works soon after starting in the morning after it has been completely cooled overnight. Then it won't work until the next cool down over night.
Thanks mark

 

[willie59]

Term 3 is connected to the neg side of the coil (tach lead).

Oh man, darnit, I forgot that, Term 3 = Sig terminal, Signal, the dang signal from the ignition coil. That's how the E-201 knows what speed the engine is running. Grrrrrrr, I forgot all about that. :Banghead LMAO!

So, if your only using 5 terminals on the E-201, then term 5 is the terminal that determines the speed settings of the E-201. Hi engine would be a nominally high (+/-) 12V on term 5 when hi engine is selected, then a lower voltage, maybe your 6.9, on term 5 when mid board is sending input to it.

 

[mark3885]

I put a 12v jumper on term 3 when it wasn't working and would only get a blip in the throttle not a continuous high speed running of the engine.
I'm beginning to think I'm having a problem in the E-201 , with the speed working so randomly. Where would I be losing the signal voltage and what function causes the engine to rev up when the footswitch is depressed. Earlier you mentioned that the footswitch controls the proportional dump valve. What is the purpose of the dump valve?
My son is getting married this weekend , so I won't be able to play with the lift until Sunday. mark

 

[willie59]

I put a 12v jumper on term 3 when it wasn't working and would only get a blip in the throttle not a continuous high speed running of the engine.
I'm beginning to think I'm having a problem in the E-201 , with the speed working so randomly. Where would I be losing the signal voltage and what function causes the engine to rev up when the footswitch is depressed. Earlier you mentioned that the footswitch controls the proportional dump valve. What is the purpose of the dump valve?
My son is getting married this weekend , so I won't be able to play with the lift until Sunday. mark

Gonna have to slow down bro, I'm just now getting your wiring to E-201 figured out, that crappy schematic ain't no help. We'll get through this somehow.

You don't put 12V on term 3. Term 3 is signal input from ignition coil of engine. That terminal is how the E-201 knows what the engine speed is.

Term 5 is the one you want to check. 12V jumper on term 5 should give you hi engine rpm. Reduced voltage (6.9?) on term 5 would give you a lower rpm than hi engine.

If you really suspect the E-201 is faulty, you could send it to Hindley Electronics and have it tested and replaced if necessary.

http://www.hindleyelectronics.com/

 

[mark3885]

Well I was able to get back to working on the house. I rechecked all the voltages on the E201 and the only difference is term 4 ,I get 2.75v on platform and I think 6.94v on ground. I put a 12v jumper to term 5 and no increase in rpm's on ground or platform. Maybe a problem with the mid range board? or the voltage going to it? Where does that voltage come from? mark

 

[willie59]

Ok, let's go over this once more to verify I have this right;

E-201 terminal connections

#1 - 12V battery input
#2 - ground
#3 - neg terminal of ignition coil
#4 - governor throttle control actuator
#5 - white wire to terminal #14 of engine terminal strip
no other connections to E-201

Is that right?

If so, and with engine running you put a 12V jumper on terminal #5 and got no reaction, I'm strongly leaning to shipping the E-201 to Hindley and have them test it. If it's bad, and you get it repaired/replaced, then we can work on other issues, if that doesn't cure all your problems.

 

[mark3885]

All the wiring you described is correct. I would like to send the e201 to Hindley , but I need it right now. I need to get a roof on this house before it snows which could be as early as mid October. I'll have to send it when I'm done, but in the mean time ,if I notice something different , I'll post on the forum. thanks for all your help , Mark

 

[willie59]

Hey, if nothing else, screw in the idle adjust screw on the carbureator to give you a acceptable engine speed, take the E-201 off and have it repaired. It would only be gone a matter of days.

 

[mark3885]

Hey, if nothing else, screw in the idle adjust screw on the carbureator to give you a acceptable engine speed, take the E-201 off and have it repaired. It would only be gone a matter of days.

That's what I have been doing for the past 2 months. Just tape the wires so nothing touches and I'd be good to go.