John Deere 310G MFWD ever active

[Southbus]

Hi my friends,
Again I turn to this prestigious forum for the following problem: This JD is a 2006 310G, after a heavy day of work using the MFWD to climb very steep slopes and with load, the gearbox began to lose oil from the dipstick and the double traction has not been able to disconnect until today, I have checked and changed the switch to activate the MFWD, I have put another solenoid in place of the solenoid below that corresponds to the double traction and there is no solution. Is it an electrical problem?
I appreciate some tips to repair.

Cheers from Southamerica!
Cesar

 

[mg2361]

First we need a serial number. Year of manufacturer is useless in the equipment world.

Is it a manual shift with an FNR and a 4 speed shifter on the floor, or is it a Powershift with an FNR with 4 speeds on the FNR shifter?

You said you lost oil? Is the oil level back to where it is supposed to be?

 

[JL Sargent]

Did the parking brake come on by itself while you were working?

 

[Southbus]

@mg2361 Serial number is:

And it is a manual shift with an FNR and a 4 speed shifter on the floor.
We lost only one liter of oil and we replaced it at the same time.

Cesar

 

[mg2361]

Did you check your F1 MFWD fuse? Did you check for voltage at your solenoid? That system has no voltage to the solenoid for the MFWD to be on and voltage is applied to the solenoid to turn the MFWD off.

 

[mg2361]

Did you check your F1 MFWD fuse? Check to see if you have voltage to the MFWD solenoid? That system has 12 V to the solenoid to turn off the MFWD and 0 v to the solenoid to turn the MFWD on.

 

[Southbus]

Did the parking brake come on by itself while you were working?

@JL Sargent ,No, the parking brake never activated by itself.
Cheers
Cesar

 

[Southbus]

Did you check your F1 MFWD fuse? Check to see if you have voltage to the MFWD solenoid? That system has 12 V to the solenoid to turn off the MFWD and 0 v to the solenoid to turn the MFWD on.

Hi @mg2361, we did all these tests and the voltage and fuses were ok, but we finally managed to stop the front wheels, before we had tried exchanging the coils with another machine but the problem continued, then we exchanged this part and it worked!

There is no visible damage and the o-rings seem to be fine, however this part is the cause of the problem, we do not know if it is sold as is or we should buy it complete with the coil. We would like to know your experiences of why this part fails, is it blocked internally? erodes? is it a lubricant problem? Thank you very much for your time and desire to help us.

Cesar

 

[mg2361]

There is a spool inside that moves when a magnetic field is applied from the solenoid coil. That part is available with the solenoid, not by itself. About $450 U.S. (P/N AT177703). They do sometimes fail. Could be a little debris from the transmission got in there and has made it stick. Sometimes machines that sit for long periods through temperature extremes cause condensation which in turn forms a little rust which could have made it stick. You should be fine just replacing it. As a precaution though I would change the transmission filter. Then cut open and inspect the old filter (see video) to see what kind of debris is in there.

 

[JL Sargent]

I have bench tested those solenoids to verify operation with a good 12v power supply. Also can operate that valve part of it manually if I remember right. Strong spring in those though.

 

[Southbus]

@mg2361 and @JL Sargent well, we are going to change the complete Selenoid, I am very grateful for your help, being in this forum has helped me a lot.

Cheers from Chile
Cesar