Looking for help after engine rebuild

[moosebrooke]

I've just finished Rebuilding a Case 580G engine. The engine is a David Brown 219 4 cyl. Diesel. I had to have the block sleeved, installed new pistions, bearings, injector pump rebuilt, injectors rebuilt, and head checked. Now that all that is done, it will only run for approx. 15 minutes before stalling. Once it stalls it won't turnover till it cools down; I've let it sit overnight. Then it'll start up and do the same thing all over again. I'm wondering if anyone has any thoughts on what might be happening, because I'm all out of ideas. :Banghead

Thanks.

 

[Mikefromcny]

Oil pressure good? correct clearance piston to cylinder wall?

 

[Phil]

I had a Perkins engine bored or resleeved with dry sleeves, not sure which, on an old MF hoe I had. After about 15 minutes of driving it around, the engine started to slow down as I drove up a small hill. I shut it off immediately and let it cool down after checking the engine with my infra-red gun. Same thing happened again, but it took a little longer. Also checked the oil filter media for any signs of metal, and drained a sample of engine oil to see if it had that silver look.

I never worked this engine hard to make sure the piston rings broke in but babied it for several days running it only 10 minutes at a time. I could only put it down to a piston to wall clearance issue and there was never any problem after that. I don't go to that machinist anymore after having numerous other problems with his work. The engine oil never did turn dark, while I had the machine and the new owner never had a problem with that engine.

Not saying that is your problem but that would be the first thing I would check, as Mike noted, along with verifying oil pressure. Phil

 

[moosebrooke]

Well, I took off the oil pan and come to find out, the #2 rod bearing is messed up. Don't know why this is the only bearing not getting oil, but it is now destroyed. Guess I'll be looking into it more in the next couple days.

 

[willie59]

Well, I took off the oil pan and come to find out, the #2 rod bearing is messed up. Don't know why this is the only bearing not getting oil, but it is now destroyed. Guess I'll be looking into it more in the next couple days.

Did you check if the rod cap was fitted backwards?

Whenever I assemble an engine, prior to installing engine head, I always torque the crank bearing caps and rotate the crank by hand while torquing to insure free turning crankshaft. Same thing with rod caps, as each one is fitted and torqued, insure the crank is still free turning. And sudden increase in free turning indicates a potential problem.

 

[moosebrooke]

The engine did turn free with no problems when I assembled it. Rod caps were on correctly as well. Not really sure what happened. The crank now needs to be machined and the rod replaced, not sure if I'm going to be getting to that anytime soon. Thanks for the thoughts and help everyone.

 

[carogator]

I believe I would be looking to get out any metal flowing through the system from the damaged bearing. Just a thought.

 

[OneWelder]

Does the main that feeds that bearing looked starved for oil ?

 

[lewis_smith]

could some one tell me .i am putting a head gaskrt in aford 4500 backhoe it is a 1976 how much do you torque them down thank you

 

[lewis_smith]

also the bolt pattern for tighting down the head

 

[TRSmith]

not sure about this one

 

[carogator]

to lewis smith

most of these guys could possibly help if they knew what engine you have.
yesterday's tractors.com ford forum has a lot more people familiar with this machine also. Good Luck.

 

[lewis_smith]

most of these guys could possibly help if they knew what engine you have.
Yesterday's tractors.com ford forum has a lot more people familiar with this machine also. Good luck.

it is a ford engine 3 cyl. Thank you

 

[Phil]

Lewis,
I have a Ford 550 manual and will get you it's head torque. I believe it's the same engine, but not sure, so I will try to get the head bolt thread size too. As far as a torque sequence goes, I never use it. I just start torquing at the center and work out in all directions, working up very slowly. I start with a speed wrench, then tighten them all gently with a ratchet, then a bar, and finally switch to the torque wrench, maybe taking 5 or 6 times to reach the final torque. Phil

 

[lewis_smith]

Thank you phil.

 

[Phil]

Lewis,
My manual shows the 550 diesel engine cylinder head torque in 3 steps. 1st is 90 ft-lbs, 2nd is 100 ft-lbs, 3rd is 110 ft-lbs(cold). It indicates on another page to check for head bolt bottoming in threads, if the head has been resurfaced, using a 1/2"-13UNC tap. Valve lash is exhaust- .017"-.021"cold and intake is .014"-.018".

If the block has been resurfaced, or pistons replaced, it's best to check each piston protrusion above the cylinder block- .011"-.023" (diesel engine). Phil

 

[lewis_smith]

Thank you phil for your help