Looking for J.D. 310C Guru

[electric481]

I've been troubleshooting these issues for a while now, and hopefully with the help of the world wide web, my troubles will soon be over.
I have a '86 JD 310C Backhoe. I'm having trouble with what I believe to be the torque converter/reverser or a component thereof. The hoe will currently not move forward or reverse. If I raise the wheels, I get can minimum spin from the left wheel in reverse. With the weight of the hoe, its barely an attempt at a lunge. I have changed the fluid in the reverser. There were no metal shavings to speak of gathered at the housing magnet. The internal screen filter was 90% clogged with what to me looked like cardboard pieces. After a thorough cleaning, and refilling with fluid.....still nothing. I have disconnected the neutral switch on the front loader controls with no affect. All other hydraulics work fine. I have also checked the tranny fluid. I have done my best to spot anything obvious underneath. This brings me to tonight. I have discovered the the item labeled "A" in the pictures appears to be a "T" fitting with a solenoid in one end, a barbed fitting opposite, and a 1/2" threaded nipple at the "T". (separate picture attached). The solenoid is stuck in the open position and does not actuate when 12 volts is applied. The barbed fitting obviously has a hydraulic line attached, and the 1/2" threaded nipple threads into the side of the reverser in the location shown. Any ideas if this could be my problem, and if not, I would love to hear anybody's opinions. I am also curious what item "B" is. It is attached to the shuttle shift and has a 2 wire plug set attached.

On a separate issue. The hoe has always started on the first crank until this year. Now I could run the battery out trying and it wont even attempt a sputter. If I give it a shot of ether, it starts up and runs great. I can turn it off, and 2 seconds later with the engine hot try it again, and nothing. I have drained the diesel and refueled with fresh diesel with sea foam and another diesel additive, and still nothing. Any ideas.
Sorry so long, but many advanced thanks.

 

[willie59]

That gizmo in the tee fitting looks like a temperature sensor to me. As for what B is in pic, can't see it well enough to tell. But that is in the area of the control for fwd and rev, as well as soleniod that dumps clutch pressure to give you a neutral. That solenoid is controlled by possible three switches; one on the floorboard, one on the loader control lever, and one on the 4 speed gearbox lever. You might have one of these switches stuck causing the clutch pressure dump to remain activated.

 

[Phil]

Looks something like the sump on the Case 580C &D shuttle.

Are your fuel filters okay? No water in them when drained? Phil

 

[altheatoldme]

Hello all. I am a new member awaiting my time to post a question, but I DO need to talk to a 310D guru as well.

Please let me know if I can plug the question in here as well?

Thanks!!

 

[alrman]

Looks something like the sump on the Case 580C &D shuttle.

It is the same Phil, you may already know this - the shuttle is made by Borg Warner - it is found in a few makes of backhoe & even some mobile cranes.

481 - check those wires going to "B" there should be no voltage there - if there is voltage check switches that ATCO suggested - theoretically if your problem is electrical, the hoe should drive with those 2 wires disconnected. If still no drive - could be stuck plunger in the control valve located a "B"

 

[electric481]

Thanks to all for the responses. A temperature sensor makes more sense, never even considered that, but if that's the case, I'm back to square one. Item "B" connects directly to the shuttle lever and actuates in 2 positions, one for forward and one for reverse. I will investigate more into the clutch pressure dump. I know there is a switch directly beneath the brake pedal, there is one on the loader control (already tried it disconnected), but my four speed lever contains no button. At least I have somewhere else to look, thanks
As far as the fuel filter...I', not sure. I drained the fuel originally by siphon and without a manual, I wasn't really sure what to look for. I looked for a typical looking filter in-line with the fuel line and don't recall seeing what I thought was a filter...I will look harder
And to my comrade with the 310D.....plug away, I need to learn all I can
Thanks to all.

 

[electric481]

Thanks alrman, I will do so more investigating. I appreciate the help.

 

[Phil]

I'm thinking along the lines that something is restricting fuel flow causing low internal pump pressure, or air is getting in the system. I'm not sure how your fuel supply is laid out or what kind of injection pump you have. My thoughts are make sure you have a flow of fuel right at the injection pump supply, make sure there is no water damage(check for water in the filters), make sure that the return line is clear and fuel is returning to the tank when engine running(bubble free), check your air breather for restriction, check your transfer pump for proper output(thanks to oldseabee), and if your tank is lower than the injection pump, check for air in the supply line and proper operation of any check-valves. Phil

 

[electric481]

Thanks phil, will do my best to check these things out. I'll post what I find. Until then.

 

[Swanny]

Newbie here-hoping to find an answer to a immobile 310c problem. Machine won't budge, unless you activate the diff-lock. Then one wheel will move the machine. When raised, wheels don't move at all in forward or reverse, unless the diff-lock is pressed, then only the left wheel spins. Broken axle shaft? How difficult a repair? Many thanks in advance for the assistance.

(I would have started a new thread for this, but newbies cannot until 3 'replies'.)

Steve

 

[alrman]

Swanny - Does sound like a broken axle. If you raise the machine up off the ground & turn the wheels by hand - one should turn alot more freely.

 

[Swanny]

Greatly appreciate the reply. So if it IS the axle, how easy of a fix is it? Can it be done on-site by just jacking the one wheel off the ground & breaking down the hub? Or(hopefully not) does it mean tearing down the whole transaxle?

 

[alrman]

Not real sure there Swanny, typically the rear axle assembly would need to be removed & stripped. But JD's are not my forte....... more advise should come soon from other members.

 

[willie59]

Not likely a broken outer axle shaft. On Deere rear axles, the outer axle shaft fits into axle housing and the splined end fits into a planetary gear carrier. The axle is retained (held into) the planetary carrier with a bolt and washer. Therefore, if outer axle snaps, it will come sliding out of housing while you're driving. Problem is likely with either planetary carrier components, inner axle shaft, or differential.

If problem is in planetary carrier or inner axle shaft, one simply needs to remove faulty axle housing from differential housing. It's not a terribly difficult job but does require tools and equipment to handle the components because that axle housing assembly is rather heavy to handle by hand. If the problem is farther into differential, not sure how easy it is to access those components because I haven't been that deep into one.