I have redone 4 of the cylinders on my case backhoe. It's not that bad, I never take the cylinder completely off, just take the one end loose and pull it apart with the hand winch on my little pickup. The hardest part is getting that large nut loose that holds the piston to the rod. I could not get the nut loose on the boom cylinder, so I took the rod and the piston down to a local truck shop and they put their 1 inch impact on it and it broke loose. I get the cylinder packing kits off ebay for around $30 for the whole kit.
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looking to purchase TLB for 30 acre hillside homestead in NY
- Thread starter ofenback
- Start date
ofenback
Member
hey fellas, thanks for bearing with me on all this.
I've got a lead on a 580 K, which I think is from about 88 or 89. It appears to be a phase 1 machine as it's got yellow fenders and the gearshift is on the floor.
It seems to have had a fairly cushy life, used at a garden center for loading mulch.
one owner.
It's got plenty of rust around the cab and the glass, but everything is intact and it's in fairly good shape as far as I can tell.
A few spots rusted through under the wheel wells, but the chassis and rims seem good.
The one issue is that the passenger side stabilizer ram is leaking considerably. as a result, the machine is was very low on fluid when I went to look at it. the engine oil looked good, and what little hyd fluid was there looked clear, but it was very low on the dipstick. almost non-existant. this machine has been their spare for years so i can see how this would happen, just sitting, leaking.
So I have a few questions..
1. could anyone to help me identify the exact spec of this machine with the serial number?
The serial number is JJG0007288.
2. how difficult is it to replace the cylinder and repack everything on a stabilizer? And should I do the other one at the same time, with hoses and a seal kit, or should I just do them one at a time as needed?
3. then, should I be concerned about possible damage to the hydraulic pump if the machine has been low on fluid for any length of time?
4. based on my previous post, looking for a machine for a rocky hillside does anyone have any specific thoughts on the 580 K for this?
thanks so much fellas!
Really appreciate all the help.
I've got a lead on a 580 K, which I think is from about 88 or 89. It appears to be a phase 1 machine as it's got yellow fenders and the gearshift is on the floor.
It seems to have had a fairly cushy life, used at a garden center for loading mulch.
one owner.
It's got plenty of rust around the cab and the glass, but everything is intact and it's in fairly good shape as far as I can tell.
A few spots rusted through under the wheel wells, but the chassis and rims seem good.
The one issue is that the passenger side stabilizer ram is leaking considerably. as a result, the machine is was very low on fluid when I went to look at it. the engine oil looked good, and what little hyd fluid was there looked clear, but it was very low on the dipstick. almost non-existant. this machine has been their spare for years so i can see how this would happen, just sitting, leaking.
So I have a few questions..
1. could anyone to help me identify the exact spec of this machine with the serial number?
The serial number is JJG0007288.
2. how difficult is it to replace the cylinder and repack everything on a stabilizer? And should I do the other one at the same time, with hoses and a seal kit, or should I just do them one at a time as needed?
3. then, should I be concerned about possible damage to the hydraulic pump if the machine has been low on fluid for any length of time?
4. based on my previous post, looking for a machine for a rocky hillside does anyone have any specific thoughts on the 580 K for this?
thanks so much fellas!
Really appreciate all the help.
What do you need the exact spec for? I wouldn't even know what that meant...
Franklin described the process well enough. There can be problems, like needing a new rod if the stablilizer got gouged, maybe gland too, but being a case you should be able to order them reasonably enough. You'll want a 1" import or 3/4 domestic socket set which will set you back min $200 at HF.
I wouldn't be overly concerned about the hydraulic pump. Definitely bring a bucket and fill it up to test. Take an oil sample after working it and send it in (cat SOS, about $10 including the bottle, postage and testing the last time I bought them) if you're worried.
Sounds like a creampuff, seriously. The rust isn't going to affect the stuff that matters on a backhoe much at all. A lot of these saw lots of salt which is worse, but makes for a cheap way to get an otherwise good shape machine. Actually, you might want to investigate a little more to see if it was salt vs mulch and dirt that rusted it out. I wouldn't think mulch would be that bad, 30 years of not getting washed will rust a lot though.
Franklin described the process well enough. There can be problems, like needing a new rod if the stablilizer got gouged, maybe gland too, but being a case you should be able to order them reasonably enough. You'll want a 1" import or 3/4 domestic socket set which will set you back min $200 at HF.
I wouldn't be overly concerned about the hydraulic pump. Definitely bring a bucket and fill it up to test. Take an oil sample after working it and send it in (cat SOS, about $10 including the bottle, postage and testing the last time I bought them) if you're worried.
Sounds like a creampuff, seriously. The rust isn't going to affect the stuff that matters on a backhoe much at all. A lot of these saw lots of salt which is worse, but makes for a cheap way to get an otherwise good shape machine. Actually, you might want to investigate a little more to see if it was salt vs mulch and dirt that rusted it out. I wouldn't think mulch would be that bad, 30 years of not getting washed will rust a lot though.
ofenback
Member
right, ok delmer thanks. good info on pump and ram replacement, i'l ask about the salt, never even thought about that.
i guess i was just interested in using the serial # to determine year and phase #. i
know the k series had a changeover year where they went to a different (italian?) transmission, wet brakes and perhaps a few other things....and i know there are some folks who consider the older styler transmission a bit more bullet proof and definetely easier to service then the one from series III.
i guess i was just interested in using the serial # to determine year and phase #. i
know the k series had a changeover year where they went to a different (italian?) transmission, wet brakes and perhaps a few other things....and i know there are some folks who consider the older styler transmission a bit more bullet proof and definetely easier to service then the one from series III.
Billrog
Senior Member
- Joined
- Mar 26, 2016
- Messages
- 731
- Location
- Armstrong, British Columbia
- Occupation
- band mill , backhoe and dump truck
I had a 580K I sold with 15,000 hrs. on it and never had a mins. trouble with the wet breaks or transmission ran good and never burned a drop of oil but I did put a rear seal in the engine.
I have a 580K series 1 but mine is 4wd. They all rust around the cab glass and wheel wells in New England. You can hope for the best with 2wd and chains but on a hill I like 4wd with chains front and back in the winter. What dipstick did you check for the hydraulic fluid? That may have been the shuttle. I don't think my K has a dipstick for the hydraulic fluid - just a sight glass. The hydraulic tank is inside the frame which has a history of cracking. The fuel tank is inside the frame on the opposite side and is also prone to cracking if abused. Yours may be OK if it's a creampuff. Sounds like a fair price esp. if it's in good shape.
I replaced my cylinders one at a time as they leaked. Once you get to the point of repairing that cylinder, we can walk you through it. Like I said, the hardest part is getting that piston nut loose. I ended up re-bolting my vise down, then my bench to the wall, then putting metal on it to re-enforce the bench, just so I could hold the rod assembly good enough to take the nut loose with a 3/4 breaker bar and a 5 ft cheater pipe. If there is a large truck shop near you, you might want to just plan on going there each time to get them loose. In my manual, I believe it said the factory torque on these is 750ftlbs, and I have also found locktite on some of the threads.
ofenback
Member
I hope so, I think I'm going to try to make a move on this if it looks good to my mechanic when we go check her again. the dipstick I checked was on the pass side of engine compartment, long tube heading back towards cab. I have a lame picture of it,..it's just sticking out of the left frame of this phono
is that the shuttle or hyd? the sight glass is completely empty. no visible fluid. so that's pretty lame right off the bat.
ofenback
Member
holy crap! locktite and 750 ftlbs of torque?! that is a recipe for a truck shop visit. hopefully, if this works out, we'l take it directly to my mechanics shop and he and I can deal with getting this thing apart with his equipment and changing out whatever other hoses and other bits that need attention.
ofenback
Member
as an aside, I posted a totally different question regarding multiple owners / operators for the 580 in a different post. just curious if anyone has experience with something like that.
https://www.heavyequipmentforums.co...-tlb-around-homestead-good-bad-or-ugly.71916/
thanks
https://www.heavyequipmentforums.co...-tlb-around-homestead-good-bad-or-ugly.71916/
thanks
Oil filter hasn't been changed since 2013? hmmm. 750 ft/lb is nothing, it will take much more to break it loose. That's 150# on a 5' pipe, dead weight, not jumping on it.
I wouldn't touch the sharing deal, way too many things to go wrong, there's much better ways to save a couple grand. They're going to imply it's your fault if anything breaks, and it will. And they're going to expect you to do the work cause they helped YOU out.
I wouldn't touch the sharing deal, way too many things to go wrong, there's much better ways to save a couple grand. They're going to imply it's your fault if anything breaks, and it will. And they're going to expect you to do the work cause they helped YOU out.
That's the shuttle dipstick. Don't worry if the hydraulic is a little low - it's a big tank. If it needs a pail or two - that's another story. The oil change interval is concerning. Delmer is right on with sharing equipment - bad idea. I wouldn't even loan a piece of equipment to any but a chosen few. If someone doesn't have one, chances are they don't know how to properly care for it, either. If it's a friend, I'll do it for free because I know it won't get damaged in the process. If someone wants to play with a machine they should rent one.
ofenback
Member
yeah I wasn't thrilled to see the date on that oil filter either. However, the engine oil was clean and full. This is the guy's back up machine. It's his second machine, since he bought a newer 580 about 10 years ago. So, I don't think this thing has many hours on it since 2013. I still would've liked to have seen the filter changed more recently but if the condition of the oil is any indication then maybe it's not so bad…?
I guess that's good news about the shuttle fluid, and that I checked the wrong dipstick. hopefully the hyd fluid is not low. What are the consequences of running a machine with low shuttle fluid? bad for clutches?
I'll do a little bit more research today so I can be clear on checking the right spots.
thanks for the help fellas!
and yea, nobody likes this idea of sharing ownership! I guess I kind of expected that… But glad to have my suspicions confirmed.
stay tuned....
I have found out you can torture these machines pretty bad and they still run ok. My 480c has a shuttle just like that, when it was cold outside (below about 40F) it didn't want to move very well till it warmed up. So I drained the shuttle, pulled the cast pan off and cleaned it out and the pickup. Did a lot of research on the type of oil, and ended up putting tractor supply universal fluid in it. It took 8 quarts so I just bought two 1 gallon jugs and filled it up. It works very good now.
I ran it for a big project for about a year, and after that I decided to change the oil in the engine. The oil would not drain out. I poked up through the hole and the oil would run out and then stop again. I finally got the oil out and then went ahead and pulled the oil pan, since I could feel something loose in there. Come to find out the loose thing was the oil pump pickup, and it is made to hinge like that. I also found about a inch of crud in the bottom of the pan, old oil and junk that had turned to a rubber like stuff. Cleaned it all out, put it back together with new oil and filter, and it still runs like it always did. I think these things are hard to kill.
I ran it for a big project for about a year, and after that I decided to change the oil in the engine. The oil would not drain out. I poked up through the hole and the oil would run out and then stop again. I finally got the oil out and then went ahead and pulled the oil pan, since I could feel something loose in there. Come to find out the loose thing was the oil pump pickup, and it is made to hinge like that. I also found about a inch of crud in the bottom of the pan, old oil and junk that had turned to a rubber like stuff. Cleaned it all out, put it back together with new oil and filter, and it still runs like it always did. I think these things are hard to kill.
milkie62
Well-Known Member
If you have a lot of hillside work a 2wd machine will be scary at times.My one logging road starts at the edge of one of my fields but is downhill. When it is frosty,frozen or wet,I need to put it in 4wd to help go down so I do not slide especially if I have stuff in the bucket and my ag tires are almost at 100%.
milkie62
Well-Known Member
Not to hijack this thread but it is interesting reading. I am in the same boat of had rented machines in the past but with all the little jobs I have it will be better to buy one. I am hoping to find an open station machine with just the rops since mine would be used in the woods also.