MF 50H water pump

[Buickspec6231]

So, this is my only piece of yellow equipment... I am not new to working on my own cars, trucks, mowers, whatever it is. My dilemma is this... I have a leaking water pump, (Perkins 4.236). According to the service manual my first step is to split the tractor at the front axle and frame connection. In order to do this I need a special male splined socket tool to remove the front pump shaft. While it is being serviced I want to change the fan belt. I am 90% positive that I can get the water pump out without splitting the machine, but almost certain I can't get the belt on without removing the shaft. The shaft is a left hand thread in to the crank pulley. I've tried to find MF's splined socket for the shaft removal with negative results. Others have stated they made a tool with old shafts they had laying around... well, I have none of that. Is it normal in the heavy equipment world to have to dismantle so much of a tractor for a simple belt change or water pump? (F-ing engineers!) Does anyone have any solutions to this problem that could be used out in a field? I've been thinking a pipe wrench and a cheater bar on the shaft if I can get a good bite on it. I might just deal with the leaking pump for a while and just keep topping it off. I just hate having a leaking machine.

 

[Delmer]

Yes, a pipe wrench will work. Jam the pipe wrench on the shaft and rotate the engine from the torque converter housing through the access hole in the bottom. Or you could loosen the hydraulic pump, two bolts, and take out the four bolts that hold the flange to the front pulley on the crankshaft, those rubber chunks could stand to be replaced along with the belt.

That shaft is a relatively common spline, 7/8" x 13 teeth? you could probably find it online but it won't be cheap, or see if a hydraulic shop has one in their scrap bin you could purchase?

 

[bvfdfire]

A pipe wrench will work as delmer said, but I built the one that I had when working MF's all the time out of cut off pc of input shaft with a nut welded to it. A tip from experience also, the coupling on the end of the shaft is ALWAYS wearing out prior to anything else in that system. We finally started buying billet couplings from a hydraulic vendor and building our own shafts in cooperation with a local machine shop. As I remember, most all the hydraulic system was built by Cessna, later became Parker? When you pull that water pump, be sure that you note which bolts come from which holes. Perkins is notorious for using many different length bolt sizes and some are extremely close. Especially any that are around the camshaft. Once built a 4.236 that I could turn almost a complete revolution and it would lock up, one of those odd length bolts was striking the camshaft lobe. But all in all, the Perkins are pretty good.

 

[joe--h]

My MF50 needs a belt too. Thinking one of those link belts would work. They work on machinery, why not on a tractor?

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_...-keywords=link+belt&sprefix=link+belt,aps,250



Joe H

 

[Delmer]

Yes, that type of belt works fine, IF the belt is all you need. Read above first.

 

[Buickspec6231]

Thank you everyone for the input. Sorry for the delayed response. Truck decided to need tranny work this week too. (SURPRISE!!! 2009 Dodge Ram 1500). I was able to do the service without separating the tractor. I did have to pull the radiator and move both oil coolers to get the water pump off, but still saved me a bunch of work doing it that way. By unbolting the 4 bolts on the crank pulley and pulling the hydraulic pump, I was able to slide the plate forward enough to muscle the old belt out. Putting it back in was tough, but with a narrow blunt object (box end of a wrench) I was able to push the belt down through any pinch points and get it installed without much hassle. She's up and running again. Changed the upper and lower radiator hoses and the hydraulic suction lines while I was at it.

 

[Billrog]

Good for you glad you were able to get it done & changing those hose was a plus.

 

[joe--h]

I had a look at mine and it looks as it there is plenty of room to get the pump out. Something not apparent that makes it necessary to pull the radiator?
Joe H

 

[Buickspec6231]

Joe, Not sure what year or model 50 you have, mine is a 1986 or 1987 model 50H. But on mine there was not enough room for the impeller to clear the block before the fan interfered with the radiator. Also, you can't get the bolts loosened or installed that hold the pump to the block with the pulley installed. In order to remove the pulley you need to pull the fan off and fit a puller to the pulley. The shroud can also only be removed by removing the fan and pulling them out together. Basically it was just a snowball effect of interferences.

 

[joe--h]

Thanks. I was thinking take the fan off and leave it in the shroud.
Joe H