Mice Issues

[Steve Frazier]

Well I've just had my own experience to join this thread. I hadn't run my skid steer in a couple months and tried to use it late today. Machine smoked black and very low on power. Went directly to the air cleaner, pulled the primary filter and didn't find anything. Restarted machine, no change and it was actually getting worse. Thought maybe I had sucked up some water so I opened the fuel filter petcock to drain but no change. Went back to the air filter and pulled the primary and secondary filter and Bingo!! Mouse nest inside the secondary filter!! Tried machine without filter, it seems the nest has been sucked into the intake piping.

I'm going to have to dismantle tomorrow and clean, I'm hoping the mess didn't get past the turbo and into the heart of the engine. With my quick check I couldn't find any holes they could have entered through but there has to be some way they got into that inner filter, it and the outer filter were intact without any holes. I've got my fingers crossed this doesn't turn into an expensive repair.

 

[Pony]

I'm hoping you're right, but I don't think so.

 

[Steve Frazier]

I got into the 248 today and found how the mice got in. The air filter housing had a chunk out of it on the back side. It was clearly broken out, not chewed and gave the mice a clear path to the secondary filter. The nesting material was lodged in the intake tube before the turbo. I took it all apart and cleaned it out and then looked at the turbo. There was a mouse carcass sucked into the impeller. Took the boost hose off and there was heavy oil presence at the turbo but very light oil coating at the other end where it connected to the intake manifold. With forceps and a pick I got the turbo cleaned out and to spin freely and blew it out from both sides while disconnected from the air tubes. Cleaned all the tubes and put the boost tubes back on.

Started the engine and confirmed the turbo was spinning freely at idle and then raised the rpm in increments. The engine smoked at first but then cleared within a minute. With the air source plugged the engine had loaded up and once the excess oil burned off it was fine. Ordered a new housing, $250, will have it Friday.

I don't have any idea how the housing was damaged. It's located between the operator seat and engine and there are no moving part anywhere near it. That side of the housing was not visible. The only thing I can think of is when I had the engine replaced they must have damaged it and not told me, it's the only time it would have been exposed.

 

[Allan M]

I got into the 248 today and found how the mice got in. The air filter housing had a chunk out of it on the back side. It was clearly broken out, not chewed and gave the mice a clear path to the secondary filter. The nesting material was lodged in the intake tube before the turbo. I took it all apart and cleaned it out and then looked at the turbo. There was a mouse carcass sucked into the impeller. Took the boost hose off and there was heavy oil presence at the turbo but very light oil coating at the other end where it connected to the intake manifold. With forceps and a pick I got the turbo cleaned out and to spin freely and blew it out from both sides while disconnected from the air tubes. Cleaned all the tubes and put the boost tubes back on.

Started the engine and confirmed the turbo was spinning freely at idle and then raised the rpm in increments. The engine smoked at first but then cleared within a minute. With the air source plugged the engine had loaded up and once the excess oil burned off it was fine. Ordered a new housing, $250, will have it Friday.

I don't have any idea how the housing was damaged. It's located between the operator seat and engine and there are no moving part anywhere near it. That side of the housing was not visible. The only thing I can think of is when I had the engine replaced they must have damaged it and not told me, it's the only time it would have been exposed.


View attachment 256595

It's great that you're a skilled mechanic and could trouble shoot that mess. A dealer would have cost you an arm and a leg! I'm beginning to wonder if there isn't a mice proofing system that every heavy equipment manufacturer should sell with each machine...not unlike airbags in cars. Think of the lost time and money that rodents are costing our community. Maybe the system would include: chew proof wiring harnesses, wire screening for all open ports or small access areas, electronic repellent devices and maybe even a misting system that periodically sprays the peppermint or other repellent chemical in vital areas. Or maybe even a switch that runs a mild electrical current through the machine when not in use not unlike an electric fence for animals. I know it sounds weird but just think of the machine down time and lost labor costs. What did it cost you to blow off a couple of afternoons to get your rig running (loss of machine productive time/potential cost of parts)? I'm glad it wasn't more serious. Thanks for sharing.

 

[Pony]

Well done, could have been a lot worse than $250.

 

[Vetech63]

Ordered a new housing, $250, will have it Friday.

I have a customer that would have duct taped that. LOL

 

[AllDodge]

Good its up and going

 

[Old Doug]

A few years ago i started my Fat Cat and went for a ride on the way back it stated running bad and about a 100 feet from the shop it dead and wouldnt start. Mice had chewed up the air cleaner . It took 2 cleanings to get the carb working wright agin.

 

[Steve Frazier]

I have a customer that would have duct taped that. LOL

A buddy suggested that aluminum tape used for A/C ductwork until the housing came in but I'm just leaving it parked, I don't want to do the work twice. I don't have anything pressing for it.

I learned how to fix things watching my Dad growing up, I don't have any training at all. I've rebuilt engines and manual transmissions and I'm not afraid to tackle anything mechanical but newer equipment and vehicles throw me with all the computerization. Without diagnostic equipment it's tough to figure out electronics failures and I'm finding even many of the technicians trained to repair this stuff are guessing half the time. I'm not convinced you can call this progress.

 

[Allan M]

I got into the 248 today and found how the mice got in. The air filter housing had a chunk out of it on the back side. It was clearly broken out, not chewed and gave the mice a clear path to the secondary filter. The nesting material was lodged in the intake tube before the turbo. I took it all apart and cleaned it out and then looked at the turbo. There was a mouse carcass sucked into the impeller. Took the boost hose off and there was heavy oil presence at the turbo but very light oil coating at the other end where it connected to the intake manifold. With forceps and a pick I got the turbo cleaned out and to spin freely and blew it out from both sides while disconnected from the air tubes. Cleaned all the tubes and put the boost tubes back on.

Started the engine and confirmed the turbo was spinning freely at idle and then raised the rpm in increments. The engine smoked at first but then cleared within a minute. With the air source plugged the engine had loaded up and once the excess oil burned off it was fine. Ordered a new housing, $250, will have it Friday.

I don't have any idea how the housing was damaged. It's located between the operator seat and engine and there are no moving part anywhere near it. That side of the housing was not visible. The only thing I can think of is when I had the engine replaced they must have damaged it and not told me, it's the only time it would have been exposed.


View attachment 256595

FYI. You can fix that hole easily with a patch of fiberglass window screen and JB Weld (or other general purpose epoxy). Just clean the area. Cut a square patch of screen that overlaps the hole by 1/2" on all sides. Apply the JB Weld around the opening. Put on the patch and smooth a layer of JB Weld over the screen to cover the hole. Bam. Done.

 

[kolot]

5 gal pail with 2 inches antifreeze in bottom, smear peanut butter around the inside of the pail about 2-3 inches down from the top. put it where they can crawl on something like the console or the seat, don't need the rolling log or any of that, give it a few days and you will start finding them in the antifreeze. seems like it works better once a few are dead in the bottom, go figure. Anti freeze seems to keep them from stinking.

 

[Allan M]

Check out this video. It will blow your mind. I think it explains why kolot's trap works better with a few dead mice at the bottom. Herd mentality. I did buy a pair of these electronic repellents (https://www.amazon.com/MouseBlocker-Pro-Ultimate-Ultrasonic-Deterrent/dp/B01MG94UER) that Extra Fubar had suggested. I installed one in my excavator and one in my truck. I'm out of town now and will return in several weeks. I'll let you know if this device works. There is no shortage of test mice on my property!

 

[Vetech63]

I can't let my wife see any of this. One of my cats cornered a mouse a few weeks ago and she saved the mouse...............to just let it go in the back yard. LOL

 

[Allan M]

Here is the bucket trap video link that didn't seem to load above:

 

[kolot]

Great, today I took my truck out to do some errands, parked in the driveway and put a few things from it into the garage, about 5 maybe 7 minutes. Figured let me check the oil, open hood and theres a mouse sitting on top of the hot engine, down under the plastic plenum where I can't get him. by the time I grabbed a screwdriver, gone. so guess I have to round up a bucket, how could he be comfy on that hot engine?

 

[Allan M]

Hey guys: I've had the best luck using Grandpa Gus' spray peppermint oil. But, I still have seen evidence of rodents in the cab. 6 weeks ago I install the electronic unit (below in bold type recommended by Extra Fubar one of our heavy equipment buddies). I got a two-pack for about $60 on Amazon. No evidence of mice in the cab since. Maybe the combination of the peppermint oil (I spray the floor of the cab about once a week) and this electronic device will do the trick. Meanwhile, our ductless AC/Heater for the house stopped working. A tech came out. Guess what? Five dead mice in the circuit boards of the main heat exchanger/compressor unit which sits outside. One main circuit board is fried with a dead mouse across the transformer. Needless to say I'm not a happy camper. It's hard to believe that a manufacturer wouldn't anticipate that rodents wouldn't be an issue and design to keep these out. So, I'll install an Ultrasound device in this unit too once the faulty circuit board is replaced and see if I can somehow build a wire cage around the entire unit. The repair bill? $1,500. It might be cheaper in the long run to hire someone to sit in a chair by my excavator, tractor and AC unit each night with a rifle with an infrared scope to kill rodents.
Loraffe 2 Pack Under Hood Animal Repeller Car Rat Repeller Rodent Repellent Ultrasonic Mouse Deterrent for 12V 24V Vehicle Automobile Get Rid of Mice in Car Engine with Ultrasound and LED Flashlights.

 

[Old Doug]

Here is the bucket trap video link that didn't seem to load above:

Dang thats unreal .

 

[Spud_Monkey]

Here is the bucket trap video link that didn't seem to load above:

Making things more complicated than should be, seems a bucket with a lid and a hole cut in top with a knife would of sufficed and saved time.

 

[gwhammy]

I've never tried it on mice but fly bait will kill anything that eats it. Seen vermin drop dead at the pan.

 

[Allan M]

Hi guys: There were enough hits on this topic that clearly a lot of damage has been done and a lot of financial pain caused by mice to those looking at this thread. For me, $1200 rewiring on my son's Mustang vehicle and $1,800 for two new circuit boards and wire repair for my split mini AC system on the house. I've felt helpless seeing mice fecal matter everywhere in the cab of my excavator. Here's my final input on the topic after experimenting with different solutions and advice from those on this thread: 1) Killing mice with bucket traps, traditional mouse traps with peanut butter or cheese on them, glue traps, etc... is great for my barn and outbuildings (and I use all of these)...but I don't want to kill mice after they have entered my vehicles. Chances are some damage is already done. Uncle Gus' Rodent Repellent (the peppermint/eucalyptus spray I noted earlier in this thread) seemed to help curtail mice activity somewhat but not completely. I started using "Loratte Under the Hood Animal Repeller Ultrasonic" devices bought on Amazon two for $50. Takes five minutes to install on a 12 volt system; and I used a more powerful ultrasonic unit in my AC system after new circuit boards were put in that cost $80 and ran on 110volts. I just returned from a two month trip and no evidence of mice in any of the above described vehicles or units: nothing in my excavator, truck, son's mustang, AC unit. These little ultrasonic units have minimal battery draw and kick off when the vehicle is running (motion sensor), and also stop working if the battery charge drops below 12 volts (so it doesn't run the battery down). For my situation and California mice (remember these are left-wing socialist mice that believe they are entitled to destroy my equipment) I think I have a working solution. I'll keep my fingers cross and also hope that if any of you have similar issues with mice give the ultrasonic devices a try. I'd like to hear if it works for you. I should note I still spray the floor of the excavator cab with the peppermint spray after each use. I did install the ultrasonic device in the side compartment of my excavator near the battery adjacent to the cable and floor controls that feed into the cab. Best, Allan