michigan 75 GM III A project

[tree_man150]

recently picked up a clark 75GMIIIA- #409-B-306-CAC.
engine detroit diesel 4A173476
RC4057N
can anyone match me up with a year model and if the motor is a 4-71
new member from western washington with about a hundred more questions---but this might just get me started down the right path for info

 

[oldseabee]

Clark models can run for several years. Could be late 60's or early 70's machine. Serial number does matter when ordering parts as these machines do have updates as time goes on. If there is a major change they may have change a major component like the convertor or trans or engine or axle. The 409A machines had an axle change from 19000-2 to 19100 series, at that time they changed the S/N to 409B. That would make a difference in the parts for the axle and there could have been other changes at the same time. FYI 408A and B had cummins engines.

 

[tree_man150]

thanks oldseabee
i took a bunch of pictures yesterdayand will put one one here when i figure out how to. i found the dip stick for the tranny and checked it--it was ful but sure did not look anything like atf fluid--more like hyd oil---my question would be-- what oil should the transmission have in it? it seems to move forward/reverse ok after a warm up and about 1/4 throttle. going to try to blast some of the dirt/grease from around the convertor/trans area and get some numbers.
there is one lever in the cab that i am wondering what it does--its on the floorboard about where your left foot heal would be==lever rod goes down to the transmission near the oil check plugs--wondering if it takes it out of 4 wheel drive??

 

[oldseabee]

The transmission is checked in neutral with warm oil engine at low idle. Different oils can be used depending on ambient temp. machine was built in Canada so the initial fill was ATF. engine oil has been used, 20W or 30W in warmer temps. The lever below the seat is for work range/travel range. Down is work range, up is travel range. machine should be stopped and in neutral to shift ranges as this is a mechanical shifting of gears in the lower part of the trans.

 

[willie59]

Serial number prefix (4A) indicates it's a 4-71, s/n (173476) indicates it was 1971 production.

Use only SAE 40 oil in that engine, not multi grade oil (15W/40). Delo 100 or Mobile Delvac 1240 are preferred oils.

 

[tree_man150]

thanks for that info willie59
after i paid for the machine--i noticed that the bell on the engine dip stick that keeps out rain/dirt was gone-so no telling how much rain water had gotten in the pan-oil was gray on the dip stick--so i dropped the oil out and changed the filter--- dumped about a gallon of diesel fuel in and let drain overnight---looks like there was about a quart of water in the old oil-- guy i bought it from said to use non detergent 30 wt oil--so i put in napa 30---should i be changing it again?
I've only run the machine 3 times now for about 15 /30 minutes each time... i have noticed white smoke comming out of both the crankcase breather tube and the large hole in the valve cover that has a mesh screen in it----seems to me that that hole should be covered up---looks like rain could come in at an angle and go right in the motor---through the big hole for the hood that the muffler pipe goes through--at times here in the pacific northwest the rain comes down sideways

 

[tree_man150]

michigan 75GMIIIA

here is the machine just after i limped it into my yard

 

[willie59]

No, not non-detergent oil, the oil spec is SAE 40 with a sulfated ash content of 1.0% or less. Any brand oil that is more than 1.0% ash does not meet specs. A non-detergent oil is not necessary. Multi grade oil will not and does not meet specs at all and should not be used.

As for the hole in the valve cover, that's the crankcase breather, it should not simply be an open hole, you've got parts missing. I couldn't find a good pic of a 4-71, but here's a pic of a 6V-71 that has the crankcase breather housing and breather piping on top of the valve cover.

 

[95zIV]

http://www.jobbersinc.com/Engines/Detroit_8v92t_fire01.jpg

Is this what you're looking for Willie?

 

[tree_man150]

wow- you guys on here are great---i'll be chainging out the oil and filter,and getting a breather for it.
do you know if there is a conversion kit to go from cartridge to spin-on - i had one heck of a time getting the new filter and the bolt and the canister all lined up--bet it took me an hour---bent way in over the tire-fighting the spring and a heavy -slippery canister-hoping that the old gasket was going to hold(no way was i gonna get the old gasket out---i finely used a tarp strap around the canister and got the bolt started--not to bad after that----spin-on sure sounds like the way to go.
.thanks for the breather pic--least now o know what it looks like

 

[willie59]

I know a spin on adapter was available, but that was years ago, where to locate one now, not sure. It's possible Wix makes one.

 

[tree_man150]

hinge pivot bushings 75IIIA

i noticed a bit of slop in the hinge pivot pin--lower hinge--could not see the top one, while running the controls-good help is hard to fine these days-might try tieing a rope to the boom lever so i can stand on the ground and bounce the boom a bit to see if the top pin is worn--but stands to reason- if the lower is loose--the top is too--so
if its just the bushing and bolt worn--i'm sure i might find new ones--looks like that would be a heck of a job to change them out-maybe one at a time---
but if there is slop-or a gap--between the bushing od and the pivot steel-then that might take some home made repair---don't thing the machine would be worth a total rebuild in the hinge area..shop job like that would cost more than i paid for the machine---i wonder if something could be poured between the steel and the bushing to fill the gap---brass-bronze--babbit---some type of epoxy perhaps---looked to me like there was about a 1/8 inch gap -won't know for sure til i get it cleaned up and work the boom some more---anyone else have to fix theirs????

 

[tree_man150]

can anyone tell me what is inside the bearings that this machine pivots around. it looks like a round bearing case and it has a plate/cover on top of it that has bolts holding the 2 togeather---is it a roller bearing--or a bushing of some sort? it fits in the channel for the rear halve of the machine. or does anyone have a manual that has a blow up view?
i am also looking for a parts manual-