My CAT 426 Project

[56wrench]

Those bucket pumps are cheap but i always put a better hose on them. They usually come with a crappy stiff vinyl/plastic clear hose so i upgrade to an oil-resistant rubberized one

 

[orangeman]

Edgephoto - Nice work as always, maybe try an electric transfer pump to fill the axle and differential. HTH's Respectfully ~ Orangeman

 

[Swetz]

I just ordered this pump.
I ordered a cheapie one by Lumax on Amazon. I sent it back, it looked like junk Hopefully the Zeeline pump is good. One of the things I like about it is that it will attach to the spout on the 5 gallon buckets without removing the top.

Zeeline Hand Pump with Pail Spout Adapters, Hose and Nozzle ZE353 | Zoro

Order Zeeline Hand Pump with Pail Spout Adapters, Hose and Nozzle, ZE353 at Zoro.com. Great prices & free shipping on orders over $50 when you sign in or sign up for an account.

www.zoro.com

 

[edgephoto]

I bought a bucket pump. I spent the little extra to get OTC brand. Worked like a charm and did not spill one drop. Thanks guys for the suggestion.

This weekend I got to work on her again. Installed the wheels, took it for a short test drive and the brakes work!!! Now that is stopped 6 or 8 times I need to adjust the brakes a little, the pedal is low after the initial stops.

I changed the oil in the front axle, both final drives and the transmission. The last fluid to change is the coolant. In two weeks I should get to that. I will install a new thermostat at that time.

The tach is the only gauge that does not work and I finally got time to diagnose that. No a/c pulse coming out the W terminal. $94 and I have a new alternator on the way.

A couple minor electrical gremlins with lights to iron out but that is easy peasy stuff.

Last thing I need/want, is to replace the tires and then she is ready to move to my land and start working her.

 

[edgephoto]

 

[DMiller]

Excellent work!!

 

[T-town]

she is ready to move to my land and start working her.

... then the 'fun' starts !!

 

[TCat]

Great work you’ve done, I’m sure she will serve you well. We bought our 94- 426B to clear trees and stumps, and build our house with as you said you’re going to do. We use it all the time for one project or another around our property, can’t imagine not having it around.

Just curious how long did it take you to pull the rear axle out from under her? I‘m pretty sure ours needs new brake discs since the brakes groan loudly when you use them. When I finally get my shop built I’d like to give ours some love but until then I’ve just been fixing the things necessary to keep her going.

 

[edgephoto]

The time to get the axle out was about 2 hours. I did each side in about 5 hours per side. 2 hours or so to put it back in and another couple hours freeing up and adjusting the brake linkage. Everything was frozen and adjustments all jacked up.

 

[TCat]

The time to get the axle out was about 2 hours. I did each side in about 5 hours per side. 2 hours or so to put it back in and another couple hours freeing up and adjusting the brake linkage. Everything was frozen and adjustments all jacked up.

Thanks for the info. That seems like a great way to work on it instead of doing it with the axle under the machine.

 

[edgephoto]

Trying to do it in the machine would be awful. 8 bolts hold it to the frame. There are 3 or 4 hoses mounted to a bracket on the differential section, 4 linkages and a driveshaft.

I used my brother's forklift with fork extensions and a pallet to remove the axle. I had been thinking about how to remove it from the machine for a while. If the forklift would not work I was going to use a couple of 1000lb dollies to roll it out.

My plan B was to lift it up put the jack stands under it in case hydraulics failed. Then I would get it ready to come out. That included loosening all 8 mounting bolts. Then I would lower it until it just touched the dolly. Then remove the 8 bolts, lift the machine back up put jack stands under and roll the axle out.

Standing it in the tire made it easy to work on. I worked on the section bolted to the wheel and lifted off the other side with differential and set that aside. You could use and engine hoist or chain fall to lift it.

Once disassembled I cleaned everything, pulled the housing of the axle and use a die grinder to cut the old bearing off and a press to press on the new bearing. If you have never done a bearing like that you cut the cage and get rid of the rollers, then cut the inner race as deep as possible without cutting the axle. Cut at like a 45 degree angle to get clearance with the cutoff wheel. Then take a chisel and hit it hard with a big hammer to crack it. Then it will slide right off. I use an air chisel and it breaks in 2 seconds. I use the cracked inner race to press the new bearing on. Make sure to put your seal on first and put it the right way.

 

[edgephoto]

There were some grooves in the metal parts of the brakes. I replaced the "disc assy" pieces, the frictions and the steel plates. I did not replace the housings on either side because of cost. Ideally they should have been replaced. I am only concerned if the brakes work not if they make noise.

If you have access to a Bridgeport you could clean them up a little.

 

[TCat]

Trying to do it in the machine would be awful. 8 bolts hold it to the frame. There are 3 or 4 hoses mounted to a bracket on the differential section, 4 linkages and a driveshaft.

I used my brother's forklift with fork extensions and a pallet to remove the axle. I had been thinking about how to remove it from the machine for a while. If the forklift would not work I was going to use a couple of 1000lb dollies to roll it out.

My plan B was to lift it up put the jack stands under it in case hydraulics failed. Then I would get it ready to come out. That included loosening all 8 mounting bolts. Then I would lower it until it just touched the dolly. Then remove the 8 bolts, lift the machine back up put jack stands under and roll the axle out.

Standing it in the tire made it easy to work on. I worked on the section bolted to the wheel and lifted off the other side with differential and set that aside. You could use and engine hoist or chain fall to lift it.

Once disassembled I cleaned everything, pulled the housing of the axle and use a die grinder to cut the old bearing off and a press to press on the new bearing. If you have never done a bearing like that you cut the cage and get rid of the rollers, then cut the inner race as deep as possible without cutting the axle. Cut at like a 45 degree angle to get clearance with the cutoff wheel. Then take a chisel and hit it hard with a big hammer to crack it. Then it will slide right off. I use an air chisel and it breaks in 2 seconds. I use the cracked inner race to press the new bearing on. Make sure to put your seal on first and put it the right way.

My repair manual may or may not tell me this, but I’ll ask you this since you just got done doing the job. Is there any way to tell from the outside whether the friction discs are worn out and need replaced? I often wonder if the chatter/ groaning noise/grabbing I get isn’t due to a lack of friction modifier being added to the axle oil. I think I read somewhere that it is required and since I have not changed the rear axle oil since I’ve owned it (bought it just never did the job yet) I wonder if that could be the cause.

Thanks again for the info.

 

[Tinkerer]

You could add the friction modifier and see if it eliminates the chatter.
It should be in it anyway.

 

[TCat]

You could add the friction modifier and see if it eliminates the chatter.
It should be in it anyway.

I guess if there is friction modifier in there already and I add more, it wouldn't hurt anything anyway. If it doesn't work the discs have to be the issue.

 

[Nige]

If yours is a Cat backhoe then 197-0017 or 622-3149 is the Part Number to look for.

 

[TCat]

If yours is a Cat backhoe then 197-0017 or 622-3149 is the Part Number to look for.

Yes it's a Cat thanks Nige