My D6D

[Pony]

Funny timing, I just mustered the paddock with the dogwood a couple of days ago to brand and got a look at the trees, so here's a bit of feedback for you if you ever need to stem inject the big stuff.
Velpar (1-1) killed about 10%.
Cropyralid (4-1) killed about 50%
Tordon/Cropyralid (3-1 of each) killed them all.

 

[colson04]

Well here you go Pony, something else for you to try, once you get over the shock of the price. Around $1000 for ten litres. You can spray it, cut stump and stem inject it.

Method 240SL. Just recently become available in Australia so I picked up 10 litres to try.

I was impressed by it's use on a golf course green in the USA, were it managed to be like Velpar and kill all the trees as well as what they were really spraying for via root uptake. Of course being the USA they sued and the chemical got temporarily taken off the market. So hopefully a chemical that good might be a game changer for us.

View attachment 300573

About $1000 here for 2.5gallon jug. Locally available. Not one we use, but I had to look it up to see if it would beneficial to us. I think it would be a useful applicant for our fence rows, roadside areas, and ditches that are difficult to mow to keep brush and locust from creeping in. Autumn Olive is highly invasive and quick to spread. Black locust suckers sprout and grow fast, reaching 6ft high easily in a summer. These species quickly spread and get into crop and pasture areas if not kept in check. Mowing works, if you can easily mow the area.

 

[.RC.]

About $1000 here for 2.5gallon jug. Locally available. Not one we use, but I had to look it up to see if it would beneficial to us. I think it would be a useful applicant for our fence rows, roadside areas, and ditches that are difficult to mow to keep brush and locust from creeping in. Autumn Olive is highly invasive and quick to spread. Black locust suckers sprout and grow fast, reaching 6ft high easily in a summer. These species quickly spread and get into crop and pasture areas if not kept in check. Mowing works, if you can easily mow the area.

Looks like it is slightly cheaper here then. I am only trialing it for Lantana mostly. Nothing seems to kill it for long. It needs something with residual root action, which I am hoping this has.

Funny timing, I just mustered the paddock with the dogwood a couple of days ago to brand and got a look at the trees, so here's a bit of feedback for you if you ever need to stem inject the big stuff.
Velpar (1-1) killed about 10%.
Cropyralid (4-1) killed about 50%
Tordon/Cropyralid (3-1 of each) killed them all.

That would go along with what I have seen.

There is quite a bit of Sally Wattle around here. I do not have a lot as it hates fires, but neighbours have been battling it for decades. They have continued to use just Tordon or Grazon and some metsulfuron mixed in as well. One has even tried to remove it mechanically and they have a wonderful crop of it now.

A person I know had a paddock full of it, and the tordon gang added clopyralid to their brushcutter mix and I have never seen such an amazing kill on it. Everything died.

The job I got done some years back, still an amazing kill. I have seen so many tordon jobs that initially look OK, but years later everything grows back I cannot understand why people skimp on chemical when it is the labour that is the most costly part.

I did about 500 acres with pellets a year and a bit ago. Have got good results there as well at 15kg/ha rate. I would do more but I did something silly and bought land at the top of the market, or more to the point, the neighbour thought it a good time to sell.

 

[.RC.]

Well someone has pointed the bone at me.

Two days ago, I had half a day spare so jumped on it to do some more clearing.

I was on top of a hill and turned around, I was apparently turning on some rocks and a rock has come up jammed against the ripper mounting point and the edge of a grouser and popped all the bolts on the grouser and broke it off. The thing is though the machine was only at half revs when I was turning, the track did slightly jam so I went into reverse and then continued forward with no indication of anything wrong, until 100m down I see one missing plate and it has broken the curved bit off the adjacent plate (I found that bit next to the grouser)

I had not much left to do, so decided to carry on (after finding the plate and broken bolts) then I was clearing along a fence line and along a narrow very slight cutting with dense scrub on the side, the stickrake dug in one side causing the machine to slightly go sideways. No worries, go backwards and the soil was soft, so it just wanted to go sideways more and more, and of course this stuff always happens late in the day when there is no time left to do a recovery. So I had to pull the stickrake off do some earthmoving with a RB1 and it slowly backed out. Then recover the rake with a chain.

Then that night I did not win the $200 million lotto. So someone has jinxed me.

 

[Welder Dave]

Weird things happen. I got a rock between the idler and track frame. I heard this awful grinding gouging sound so stopped and that's when I discovered the rock in the idler. No problem I'll just take it out. Nope, I had to break the rock to get it out which wasn't easy. I have no idea how it got in there. It was 1 of very few rocks in the dirt I was working in. Had to take a lot of force to get pushed in there.

 

[.RC.]

Just a pic of what I have been up to the last few days.

 

[Metalman 55]

Clearing scrub brush on hillsides? Looks like a large area! How's the 6D running?

 

[DMiller]

Looking Good

 

[.RC.]

Clearing scrub brush on hillsides? Looks like a large area! How's the 6D running?

Yea, trying to clean the noxious weed lantana which has taken over.

The dozer is running OK for it's age, it has not yet morphed into the D7R I want it to be, maybe it is like the frog and I have to kiss it . Engine temperature is not an issue any more.

Transmission still has it's problem, been trying to get some pressure gauges to put on it. But I have narrowed down the problem.

It only intermittently part goes into gear when two things are met. First the oil has to be at normal operating temperature. Second there has to be a period of inactivity as in a couple of minutes in changing the state of the transmission.

So you could have warm oil, engine at idle, transmission sitting in neutral for a period of time, then sometimes it will not engage properly.

Or you could have had it on a long pull going up a hill engine flat out, then when you idle down to change direction, sometimes it will not correctly engage the gear. Or the same thing but a long run downhill at half revs.

Short runs of back and forward, it never does it.

So long periods of the transmission in the same state is the main factor. A sticking valve I am guessing that stops the transmission getting proper pressures to fully engage one of the clutches. Or maybe a suction side air leak letting air into the system.

Here is a photo looking back the other way from the picture I posted yesterday. I snapped it today. The over grown looking hill in the middle of the picture I plan to get a plane in and spray it with herbicide (agent orange) to get rid of the crap, then burn it. It is just too rocky for my little dozer and stickrake. It would do it, but too rough on the gear.




And one for the rock doctors. Is this limestone? There is limestone in the district and marble. It does not look very much like marble to me.

 

[OzDozer]

It's not limestone, it's basalt - a very old (geologically) and basic igneous rock type. It can vary from very, very hard, through to decomposed - when, in that state, it makes good road base.

https://www.mindat.org/loc-45194.html

 

[.RC.]

Well I ordered new springs for the control valve on top of the transmission. There are only three and they are not expensive, two are ex-Singapore, so might take awhile to arrive. What was expensive was the silicone O-Rings and there are a heap of them.

I found another thread on ACMOC about similar issues to what I have. The resolution was a broken valve spring and a slightly out of adjustment direction/speed control rods.

D6D power shift

I am working on a D6D power shift, some times it will pull some times it won't it seems like a valve is sticking open or something as it will go into all the...

www.acmoc.org

 

[Nige]

Why not go for the (potentially) easy fix first. Take a good look at the linkages for wear then repair/lubricate/adjust as necessary. Isn’t that mechanism the one that has needle bearings in the cross shaft.?

 

[.RC.]

I know do the cheap tests first. But OzDozer says I am apparently a beef baron with lots of money, so I did not want to let him down with me frittering money away.

I have checked the external linkages, they seem fine. I have not pulled the cover off the transmission yet.

As it will do it both forward to reverse and reverse to forward I put it down to another area. I did wonder if the control valve is not correctly torqued down could the valve body be distorted enough that when it heats up it causes a spool to get sticky.

 

[OzDozer]

I would seriously doubt that the valve body is capable of being distorted if not torqued down properly.

The things I would be looking for, are;

1. That the linkage is adjusted correctly and that incorrect linkage adjustment is not holding the spools off their correct detent positions.

2. Blown o-rings. The o-rings under and associated with the control valve can become blown. This can make for strange transmission behaviour.

3. The spools have tiny orifices in them, and they also have small pistons inside the spools. Those tiny orifices can become blocked, and cause erratic operation. The small pistons can jam in their bores with fine trash and fine dirt particle buildup.
Take the spools out, carefully noting how they go together, then dismantle them from the valve body and clean them thoroughly - carefully checking every single component for small orifices drilled into them, and making sure those orifices are perfectly clean. Ensure the pistons can move freely.
Look for fractured springs and check the length of the springs against the specs in the manual.
Re-assemble and reset the linkage adjustment so it is correct and not binding anywhere.

 

[Pony]

I know do the cheap tests first. But OzDozer says I am apparently a beef baron with lots of money, so I did not want to let him down with me frittering money away.

To be fair to OzDozer, RC, we all think that, he's just the only one saying it. ,;-)

 

[.RC.]

Well, so long as you are also all thinking I am really handsome, then I suppose I will go along with it.

 

[Queenslander]

A rich, handsome beef baron, and witty as well.
Why are you wasting your time here on HEF with us, RC?

 

[.RC.]

You can only spend so much time on onlyfans. LOL.

 

[DMiller]

Can attest just a Poor Dirt working Retired wrench bender here, about handsome as a Rock where about as dense some days while opinionated a bit harsh.
Not a woman draw.

 

[.RC.]

Can attest just a Poor Dirt working Retired wrench bender here, about handsome as a Rock where about as dense some days while opinionated a bit harsh.
Not a woman draw.

Come on, all the wealthy people say that.