New Operator

[cuttin edge]

Yes... it will bounce when your articulate, I have tried all the fixes, from different air pressures in your tires, then making sure all the tires are the same brand and a few more I can't remember, with my machine speed is the trigger and slowing down stops it, I use the articulate all the time with cutting a hard road to spreading, articulating will help with building your crown when spreading, as a example, put your blade on the ground straight across, then leaving it in that position articulate your machine, take note now your blade has risen at one end a lowered in the other, use this position to your advantage.

I find bouncing to be an issue when feathering out, or losing material on a final pass. I agree that speed is an issue, along with dry powder. I don't ditch much, if ever. Sometimes on a new built road, after it is paved, I use the saddle lock pin to blend the slope between the different lifts of subgrade, 3 inch, and inch and a quarter. Other than that the only time it gets used is to change the cutting edge, or cut it straight with the torch. Another favorite is trying to spread 2 or 3 inches of material over a hard packed surface, and having it slide ahead of the material in the blade.

 

[20/80]

Yes, last pass this is where you will get some wash boarding, mostly a speed thing, I struggle sometimes too with losing abit of material on the final pass, I think everyone that runs a grader experiences this every now and then, old hand told me you have to figure out the math when spreading.

 

[turkelton919]

This time of year I usually have a windrow of debris, sod. I leave it laying on the shoulder for a month to rot/dry. Then it busts up and goes away without losing any gravel.

I blade 50 miles of roads in a variety of soil conditions. I know my roads very well. I make subtle changes to the blade when changing roads without thought. I just know how each one works best.

So don't be afraid to make adjustments. A lot is learned with experimenting.

Also, none of us can tell you how to blade your roads. You will learn what works for you and what doesn't. I learned that several years ago on this website. Everyone is helpful and suggestions are always an attempt to help you. In the end, it's all on you.

My machine and roads allow me to blade at a faster speed than most on here prefer. I run 6.5-7.0 mph on the first two passes. 14-15mph on the final pass. I catch a lot of flack when I say that. But I know what works best on my roads.

If your machine lopes you are going the wrong speed. Not sure if you are going too fast. Not sure if you are going too slow. Damn sure you are going the wrong speed. Make adjustments until you find the right speed.

I'm 31 years in the seat. Still learning.

Thanks for the advice! I’ve been going relatively slow for cutting and have found going a little quicker with each pass as I’m finishing seems to help feather the material out. I’m still pretty green with the machine and haven’t dared going more than probably 5-7 mph with the blade down. I haven’t had any problems with loping but I did find a culvert and a chunk of ledge with my blade the other day.

 

[20/80]

Thanks for the advice! I’ve been going relatively slow for cutting and have found going a little quicker with each pass as I’m finishing seems to help feather the material out. I’m still pretty green with the machine and haven’t dared going more than probably 5-7 mph with the blade down. I haven’t had any problems with loping but I did find a culvert and a chunk of ledge with my blade the other day.

When i'm doing a road I am not use to I will do a hazard drive by and mark culverts and any other hazards that can get ripped up in the blade with a ribbon, that looks like some nice material your working with.

 

[PWR]

Here's a pic of one of my Roads on my 140h View attachment 243632

Looks like you are off to a real good start.

 

[turkelton919]

When i'm doing a road I am not use to I will do a hazard drive by and mark culverts and any other hazards that can get ripped up in the blade with a ribbon, that looks like some nice material your working with.

Yeah that stuff packs really nicely. Occasionally we’ll have trouble with it getting a little slimy after a rain but overall it’s pretty good. I did do some scouting afterwards and found a couple more culverts and rocks poking through.

 

[ovrszd]

Yes... it will bounce when your articulate, I have tried all the fixes, from different air pressures in your tires, then making sure all the tires are the same brand and a few more I can't remember, with my machine speed is the trigger and slowing down stops it, I use the articulate all the time with cutting a hard road to spreading, articulating will help with building your crown when spreading, as a example, put your blade on the ground straight across, then leaving it in that position articulate your machine, take note now your blade has risen at one end a lowered in the other, use this position to your advantage.

I see no difference in bounce by articulating. As I said earlier, bounce might be because you are going too fast, or it might be because you are going to slow, but for sure you are going the wrong speed.

Road conditions and composition also come into play with bounce. What I can do might not be possible at a different geographic location. I even see differences in my individual roads and sometimes alter my speed .1 mph to correct bounce.

I use articulation almost as much as front steer. My machine is a rack machine. Outside right side lever is right blade lift. Second in right side lever is left blade lift. Third in right side lever is articulation. Lift levers are in my palm, thumb on articulation lever.

When my roads are soft I use articulation to spread my track so I don't rut the shoulder as bad. Run with the rear track toward center of the road a tire width.

 

[20/80]

I prefer the rack over joysticks, I guess i'm old school, the JD's are nice machines we have 4-5 in our Eastern district.

 

[ovrszd]

I prefer the rack over joysticks, I guess i'm old school, the JD's are nice machines we have 4-5 in our Eastern district.

In our situation, it's an additional $25K to get a joystick machine. It's simply not mathematically feasible.

I believe in situations where a lot of control activity is involved the joystick machine is a bit more efficient. For normal road maintenance I don't see much difference. In those conditions I dislike the visibility out of the Cat M machines, front and rear. I also dislike the cramped conditions in the cab of the M joystick model.

I think both brands produce quality machines. Just wish they'd get more serious about quality control and technical repairs.

 

[cuttin edge]

I see no difference in bounce by articulating. As I said earlier, bounce might be because you are going too fast, or it might be because you are going to slow, but for sure you are going the wrong speed.

Road conditions and composition also come into play with bounce. What I can do might not be possible at a different geographic location. I even see differences in my individual roads and sometimes alter my speed .1 mph to correct bounce.

I use articulation almost as much as front steer. My machine is a rack machine. Outside right side lever is right blade lift. Second in right side lever is left blade lift. Third in right side lever is articulation. Lift levers are in my palm, thumb on articulation lever.

When my roads are soft I use articulation to spread my track so I don't rut the shoulder as bad. Run with the rear track toward center of the road a tire width.
View attachment 243913

Oh yes, I believe you mentioned you preferred the Deere controls. I like the blade lift on each hand, although my Mauldin maintainer has both blade lift controls on my left hand. I can always tell if someone has moved my Volvo, as they always lift the front plow piston while trying to figure out how to lift the MB

 

[ovrszd]

Oh yes, I believe you mentioned you preferred the Deere controls. I like the blade lift on each hand, although my Mauldin maintainer has both blade lift controls on my left hand. I can always tell if someone has moved my Volvo, as they always lift the front plow piston while trying to figure out how to lift the MB

The only blade I've ever ran with the lift controls at each end of the rack was a 1973 CAT 12.

"One hand" blade lift controls can be set up on either end. And can be set up on any brand of hydraulic machine using a rack. With JD it's a set up option. When we trade I always request it set up with one hand operation at the right end of the rack. Then I rearrange the levers to get the articulation lever in line with the lift levers.

All of these things are personal preference. Same with blade methods and speed. The only wrong choice is the one that isn't working. Speed up. Slow down. Articulate. Roll the blade more. Roll the blade less. Angle more. Angle less. But do something to correct whatever problem you are experiencing. Don't just keep driving along messing up the road.