New to me 1999 Genie GS-2032 lift questions

[John Canfield]

Just got the lift from an IronPlanet auction and have a question and a problem.

This lift is only two wheel drive and I noticed that if one wheel looses traction, the other wheel just sits there and does not rotate like the typical car differential would act. Is this normal or should both wheels always be driven?

Sometimes it takes quite of fiddling with the stop switches and the key switch to get the lift turned on. I picked up the lift from Terex in San Antonio and they replaced the key switch apparently trying to fix the problem pre-auction. Could this be a computer problem? Stop switch bad? Joystick?

This thing struggles to climb even a small incline - normal or perhaps due to only one wheel being driven?

Thanks - John

 

[John Canfield]

Progress - I think I have the intermittent problem of the lift not powering up solved. I was checking the stop switches and when I was trying to find a convenient place to meter the joystick controller stop switch, I found a joystick controller connector under the platform on the side. I removed the connector assembly, took it apart, found the stop switch was making contact. Put is back together and we're consistently working now. Whoo-hoo. Apparently we had a bad connection there, at any rate, this problem is history (fingers crossed.)

 

[willie59]

Hi John, The Genie GS scissor is what's typically called a "slab lift", meaning it's basically built with the intended use on smooth concrete slabs. If you need a machine to work on rough surfaces or rough terrain, they won't do the job. It's typical on these for one wheel to spin if it loses traction and the other wheel (that has traction) to not pull the machine. Again, that's from being designed as a slab machine, on smooth concrete, you typically don't lose traction. There are slab machines out there that use a transmission valve, whether engaged by operator or automatic sensing, that can allow the wheel still on the ground to pull the machine, it's just the GS doesn't have that feature. They don't pull very steep inclines either, that's typical.

Your electrical problem isn't the joystick, if it was you would get an error code on the LED display of the ECM. The way that machine works, when you power it up, from either the ground controls or deck control box, the ECM sends signals through all control/operation components. It does this in a matter of seconds. If something is faulty, such as if you had the joystick off center when powering up, the ECM would notice this and not allow the machine to operate along with giving a code on the display. First of all, check all your battery connections, they have to have good connections. Second, I've replaced plenty of those contact blocks at the E-stop and power selector switch at the lower control box. It's easy enough to test the operation of those contact blocks with a simple test light or voltmeter. Another place to watch on those machines is the location of the ECM. It's tucked in a little compartment in the same box as the batteries. Never really been fond of that location, but that's where they put it. I've seen acid corrosion of the wires for the ECM. Problem is, you have to remove the ECM from it's mounting to really inspect those wires, and it's a real PITA to remove the ECM. :Banghead

All this being said, the GS is a darn good, reliable, and easy to maintain machine. Wouldn't think twice about owning one. But they have there limitations being a slab machine. But if that's the application your going to be working, it will do the job well enough. Hope this helps you a little.

 

[John Canfield]

Thanks!

Thanks for the help!!

Yup - we're good to go on the power-up problem. After fiddling with that connector, I can power up the lift first time, every time. Previously it would take two or three minutes of pulling and pushing stop buttons and turning the key switch combined with several 'words.'

Gaak - so I get one powered wheel . I realized this wasn't a rough terrain lift, but I didn't know it wanted to be on a slab all the time. The primary use for this will be on a slab, but I will need to take it off-slab for maintenance duties on the exterior of the shop building. I've already needed to manually release the brakes to tow the Genie with the tractor and use plywood for the Genie to roll on. I'll just make it work I suppose.

 

[willie59]

Your welcome John.


Just keep up with that battery box, don't let it look like some alien growth is going on in there. If there's just a little acid/corrosion going on, unbolt the charger from it's mounting and lift if clear, cover the EMC compartment with duct tape, and clean the batteries off. Remove all the cable connections, clean all the battery posts, then wash the acid off the batteries. You can use baking soda to neutralize the acid, or you can get a foaming battery terminal cleaner from NAPA to kill the acid as well, stuff works real good. Then just rinse the batteries off with a water hose. If there's a lot of corrosive action going on in there, I'll remove the ECM, remove the batteries, then remove the battery box. Clean the batteries and the box real well, kill the acid, then prep the inside of the box for paint, usually I coat the inside of the battery box real thick with red oxide primer and a brush. No spray primer...brush...I want it thick. Then finish up with a suitable Genie color blue. That battery box is a big source of headache on battery operated machines if it's not maintained.

Oh, and be careful when on rough terrain, even if set up on plywood. Being designed for solid slab work, they'll tip easily on unstable surfaces. Just be careful.

 

[willie59]

BTW John, you can download the manuals for your machine from the Genie website. http://gogenielift.com/

 

[John Canfield]

The battery box is quite clean and the batteries are about two-three years old, so no need for any heavy-duty TLC there. While looking around the box I noticed inspection stickers from United Rental - the previous owner of my Genie.

What does require attention is the slop in the steering - you can see the steering cylinder move about 1/4" - 3/8" before the wheels move. It is either a worn bellcrank hole where the cylinder yoke attaches, or the yoke/pintle itself. The wheels will be at a slightly different angle to one another - you can't look at one wheel and determine which way the lift will steer :tong

I'm pretty careful while operating my equipment and I noticed if the lift is off angle just a tiny bit, the lift won't raise very far.

Found the excellent on-line Genie manuals and parts diagrams - what a great resource.

Thanks again for the wonderful help - much appreciated :notworthy

 

[willie59]

Your quite welcome.

 

[alanmeg]

I have the same problem with my simon silver eagle 32-21 manlift.I have a blacktop driveway and if I get on an uneven spot,it won't move with just one wheel spinning.I posted a few months ago,but got no responses like you did.I wish there was a way to make it posi-trac somehow.

 

[willie59]

I have the same problem with my simon silver eagle 32-21 manlift.I have a blacktop driveway and if I get on an uneven spot,it won't move with just one wheel spinning.I posted a few months ago,but got no responses like you did.I wish there was a way to make it posi-trac somehow.

alanmeg, I'm near certain your machine uses a differential drive axle not unlike in a truck. With a differential, your going to spin if one wheel loses traction. About the best you could hope for is take your machine to someone who works on/rebuilds axle differentials and see if they have any ideas. You could disable the differential somehow and make it traction on both drive wheels, but then you would scrub your rubber tires when making turns and it may impede the turning of your machine.

 

[alanmeg]

would this work?

Hi John, The Genie GS scissor is what's typically called a "slab lift", meaning it's basically built with the intended use on smooth concrete slabs. If you need a machine to work on rough surfaces or rough terrain, they won't do the job. It's typical on these for one wheel to spin if it loses traction and the other wheel (that has traction) to not pull the machine. Again, that's from being designed as a slab machine, on smooth concrete, you typically don't lose traction. There are slab machines out there that use a transmission valve, whether engaged by operator or automatic sensing, that can allow the wheel still on the ground to pull the machine, it's just the GS doesn't have that feature. They don't pull very steep inclines either, that's typical.

Your electrical problem isn't the joystick, if it was you would get an error code on the LED display of the ECM. The way that machine works, when you power it up, from either the ground controls or deck control box, the ECM sends signals through all control/operation components. It does this in a matter of seconds. If something is faulty, such as if you had the joystick off center when powering up, the ECM would notice this and not allow the machine to operate along with giving a code on the display. First of all, check all your battery connections, they have to have good connections. Second, I've replaced plenty of those contact blocks at the E-stop and power selector switch at the lower control box. It's easy enough to test the operation of those contact blocks with a simple test light or voltmeter. Another place to watch on those machines is the location of the ECM. It's tucked in a little compartment in the same box as the batteries. Never really been fond of that location, but that's where they put it. I've seen acid corrosion of the wires for the ECM. Problem is, you have to remove the ECM from it's mounting to really inspect those wires, and it's a real PITA to remove the ECM. :Banghead

All this being said, the GS is a darn good, reliable, and easy to maintain machine. Wouldn't think twice about owning one. But they have there limitations being a slab machine. But if that's the application your going to be working, it will do the job well enough. Hope this helps you a little.

I've been told that if you weld these gears together,(by the red lines)it will be positrac.Do you agree?

 

[willie59]

Yep, that would disable the differential feature of the drive axle. Never done that myself. But keep in mind, it might affect turning your machine, and it would scrub rubber off of your tires during turns.

 

[Benbuilt4u]

with locked axle it wont turn nearly as well as it does with 1 wheel drive.