• Thank you for visiting HeavyEquipmentForums.com! Our objective is to provide industry professionals a place to gather to exchange questions, answers and ideas. We welcome you to register using the "Register" icon at the top of the page. We'd appreciate any help you can offer in spreading the word of our new site. The more members that join, the bigger resource for all to enjoy. Thank you!

Newby with CAT 305.5E2 (not CR) -- I think the tracks are toast. Do I need new sprockets?

Baxsie

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2025
Messages
184
Location
Eastern Washington
. . . until something has to be taken apart . . .
The three of those lights that come together in that one photo are all mounted on removable covers or removable doors that's why they have the bullet connectors.

Or, if it's once every 7 years like @jbernielh, a pair of cutting pliers to disconnect and some more solder and heat shrink to reconnect :cool:
 

HarleyHappy

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 30, 2020
Messages
3,365
Location
So NH
Occupation
Welder/Mechanic
As much as I want to solder every joint and claim to be a master at wiring, I am perfectly okay using a melt on butt connection, almost everywhere. On my plow and sander and anything that gets disconnected regularly, I will use a Weatherpack or Deutch connector. I try and buy the solder melt connectors with the heat shrink but have a few more hundred of regular crimp connectors, that I use heat shrink on, before I die.
I keep records on my repairs and if I have a problem, I usually know where to look.
I also use Dialectric grease on most connectors, heck, I just used a Scotchlock last weekend.
Go ahead, get the fire ready.
I was doing lighting on trailers 35 years ago, with just crimp connections and no heat shrink.
That lasted until the trailers went into someone’s back field.
Only took care of 45 trailers.
 

HarleyHappy

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 30, 2020
Messages
3,365
Location
So NH
Occupation
Welder/Mechanic
Well admittingly, it wasn’t a crucial repair. Wife was putting up white Xmas string lights on the deck, as the solar ones we had bought last fall when we did the pavilion, didn’t work well.
Gave her the low voltage staple gun, showed her how to use it and 3/4’s way through, while standing on her head, cut one of the wires.
I grabbed the strippers and a Scotchlock and showed her how to do it, gave her a couple of more and left her to it.
 

Baxsie

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2025
Messages
184
Location
Eastern Washington
It is drying out pretty quick, but still too muddy to get up on the hill without making a mess. And I have a hydraulic leak under the cab I need to deal with.

Meanwhile I installed a gadget:


What are your thoughts? Could this actually be useful in the real world or is this just a dumb gimmick from someone who has too much free time?
 

Baxsie

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2025
Messages
184
Location
Eastern Washington
I finally got around to making a replacement cover for the track tensioner grease fittings. First off was drilling out the broken off bolts and cleaning up the threads:

Cover_Removed.jpg

Some fresh M8-1.25 flange bolts from ACE Hardware and the new 3-d printed cover:

Cover_Installed.jpg

It is printed as "solid" using black PLA. The flange helps spread the force of the bolts. I used a little thread locker to make sure the bolts stay put.

Not as tough as the original CAT 425-2866, but it does not appear that thick steel helped, seeing as how they were both missing ;)

The design is available on Thingiverse:


Peace.
 

Baxsie

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2025
Messages
184
Location
Eastern Washington
. . . I have a hydraulic leak under the cab I need to deal with. . . .

I was able to fix the hydraulic leak (pats self on back smugly). It turns out that whoever installed the thumb was not that excited about actually tightening the Rube Goldberg stack of adapters that they used to go from BSP valve through a flare and NPT to JAE hose (maybe - I'm guessing about the BSP and JAE names but they would not thread together without the adapters).

I sealed the pipe threads with Loctite 545 -- is that OK to use on these machines?

That's all well and good. But how about the pile of metal? Is it gone yet? How about all the other garbage poke poke!!

Another pic of the farm dump, for reference:

Farm_Dump_2026-02-11_1536.jpg

Got up there and sorted tires from concrete from metal:

Sorting_Tires.jpg

I'd not be able to remove that tire by hand !

Sorting_Concrete_and_Metal.jpg

Rita is loaded and tarped with a load of scrap metal. No heater or wipers in Rita so I will take her to the recycling next nice day:

Rita_Scrap_Metal_Load_2_1536.jpg
 
Last edited:

John Shipp

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 5, 2015
Messages
852
Location
England
Occupation
forestry contracting
Your Cat looks good in it's environment there, is it good to run?

On the Loctite question, it's unusual to need a thread sealant on the normal hydraulic fittings one comes across. There's normally a flare, a cone, a dowty washer or an o-ring that does all the work sealing. With the exception of tricky bulkhead fittings or in places where you're trying to get something moving (codged together) with old hard o-rings or suchlike, I can't remember the last time I've needed hydraulic sealant on fittings.

But I learn something new everyday, so post a pic if you like. :)
 

Baxsie

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2025
Messages
184
Location
Eastern Washington
Your Cat looks good in it's environment there, is it good to run? . . .

It seems to be doing great for a 9K plus hour machine. The AC is a little noisy -- I think if I put in the effort to take the seat out and get at the fan I'll find that the blades are all caked up with kak.

I have used it on fittings like the style on the label

Yes, I only used the 545 on the NPT joint that is between the two other connectors. If I have to get in there again I'll take that stack to the local hose shop and see if I can find a single adapter that will translate between the hose (JAE?) and the valve block (BSP?).

Here is a pic of the stack, for reference:

Cobblded_Up_Adapter_Stack.jpg

I'm not sure of the correct names for those fittings. You can see that just to the left there is another connection that is done with as single adapter. Just above and to the right is another cobbled mess (dripping), with slightly different fittings.

Not leaking today, so it is fixed!
 

Baxsie

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2025
Messages
184
Location
Eastern Washington
Here are the first two loads of steel. Load one was on January 23, 2560lbs, $134:

Load_1_in_truck.jpg

Load_1_dumped.jpg

Load two was today (April 14), 1760lbs, $92:

Load_2_in_truck.jpg

Load_2_dumped.jpg

On load one, I picked up a wire in a rear wheel. That started the ball rolling on new, modern tires and wheels for Rita. The barely worn 22-year-old tires and 80-year-old split rims went to someone else somewhere else. Best of luck with those brother!
 

Baxsie

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2025
Messages
184
Location
Eastern Washington
So, even though I put fresh new digging teeth on the bucket, I also want to be able to scrape the ash and garbage off the ground without digging in too much.

So I used some of the old edge from my loader. It is 3/4" mild steel. (I replaced the edge on the loader with a new, hardened edge).

I cut two 30" lengths from the middle, welded some pockets on them:

Pockets_On_Underside.jpg

The pockets are made folded up from from some re-used scrap from the dump. Here is one of my less embarrassing welds:

Pockets for teeth.jpg

So it just slides on to the teeth:

Mounted_Top_Pic.jpg


Mounted_bottom_Pic.jpg

I'm open to suggestions for ways to retain it.

I've though about just using the mag drill to go through the new plate and through the floor of the bucket, but the bucket has been hard faced in that area.

Also thought about running a chain under the bucket to a clevis in the lifting eye.

Maybe I'll just put a strap on it that can be bolted through the floor of the bucket further back.

Or maybe straps on both sides to one of the cheek bolts.

Ideas?
 
Top