No hydraulics on my Takeuchi TL130

[Tracked’n’Loaded]

For most of the past year when I would run my tl130 (usually light bucket work or running my terminator brush cutter on my farm) long enough for it to get warm, when I would lift the arm bar to exit and then lower it again the hydraulics would not turn back on. I'd then have to wait till that evening or the next day for it to cool off and them to turn back on. To fix this short term I jumped the arm bar switch (I know, not safe) so I could exit the machine to do stuff and then get back in and continue working. but once I cut the machine off and turned it back on the hydraulics would again stay nonfunctional until the next day. Now it's gotten so bad that it's a 50/50 shot at whether they will work at all anymore.

I've checked the coil on the sub valve, and it appears ok. it's getting correct voltage and when I ohm it out its 12 ohms (I don't know the correct resistance for sure) and it does magnify my screwdriver slightly when activated. does anyone have any insight on what else it might be?

also, I'd love to be able to replace these awful Japanese hydro fittings with jic or orb fittings. I've heard they use jis but when I look them up it looks just like jic fittings with different threads. my fitting look opposite to jic. the cone side is on the hose and the female cone is on the fitting in the components. any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[heymccall]

Fittings are BSPP. Becoming more commonplace.
Are you sure that you're test testing the correct solenoid?

25k hours takeuchi CTL experience combined between this and my last employer and I've never had a bad arm bar switch or issue.

 

[Tracked’n’Loaded]

Thanks! Yep, only 2 of them on the sub valve and chased the hoses from the other solenoid and it is the 2 speed. Just did some more testing. I took a random parker 12v coil that slightly fit and put it on and hooked it up to the circuit. still no luck. unhooked the parker solenoid from the connector and manually gave it power and ground using my power probe and it came alive! tried manual power with the old solenoid and it wouldn't work. so, in conclusion, it appears as though the old solenoid was bad, and there may be high resistance on the circuit because I'm getting 13v at the solenoid and it still won't work with the new parker solenoid. I see on the wiring diagram that it has a diode and resistor just before the solenoid. I see the yellow diode you can unplug and check but where would this resistor be? hidden in the harness?

 

[ghel fan]

Fittings are BSPP. Becoming more commonplace.
Are you sure that you're test testing the correct solenoid?

25k hours takeuchi CTL experience combined between this and my last employer and I've never had a bad arm bar switch or issue.

Fittings are BSPP. Becoming more commonplace.
Are you sure that you're test testing the correct solenoid?

25k hours takeuchi CTL experience combined between this and my last employer and I've never had a bad arm bar switch or issue.

New to this forum saw your comments on tl130. I have a Ghel ctl 60 which I am having problems with with it moving forward and reverse after replacing the drive lines which were leaking. Every thing was working fine before I replaced the line. Cracked the line to bleed air at the drives oil did not look milky . Is there something else I should be doing to remove the air from the system. Thanks

 

[Simon C]

New to this forum saw your comments on tl130. I have a Ghel ctl 60 which I am having problems with with it moving forward and reverse after replacing the drive lines which were leaking. Every thing was working fine before I replaced the line. Cracked the line to bleed air at the drives oil did not look milky . Is there something else I should be doing to remove the air from the system. Thanks

Have you checked the oil level, have you bled the charge pump, which I am assuming it has. Always easier to bleed if tracks are up in air with no load. How many hours on your unit.
Simon C