Welder Dave
Senior Member
That's scary. Considering deck trucks are usually operated by towing companies, you would think the driver would know better. I guess not.
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Overload of the Day
- Thread starter Birken Vogt
- Start date
What's wrong it's at least a 2500? Nothing wrong with pulling 15k trailer provided it isn't overloaded and everything is within it's capacity behind a pickup. I pull 18k behind my 3500 SRW without a second thought on a triple 7k trailer bumper pull.
skyking1
Senior Member
that looks like a 2014 so Sierra 2500, the towing capacity is 13000.
https://www.google.com/search?q=201...me..69i57.13941j0j15&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
That combo is 16000.
https://www.google.com/search?q=201...me..69i57.13941j0j15&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
That combo is 16000.
The difference between a 2500 and 3500 srw on most pickups is overload spring in the rear, nothing else. While they can print whatever ratings they want, they mean very little. Many trucks the towing capacity is changed by thousands with simply a different rear axle ratio, which has absolutely nothing to do with safety the only difference is it makes it easier on the drivetrain.
skyking1
Senior Member
you do you. I'd never tow a bumper pull approaching the tow rating without a weight equalizing hitch either.
Welder Dave
Senior Member
It depends a little on how often you tow, how far and the terrain you tow in. The biggest concern when approaching the capacity of the tow vehicle is braking. You're on the highway with lots of hills and intersections with a lot of stop and go situations, you want a bigger truck with more adequate braking. A heavy trailer can push a lighter truck around pretty easily in the right circumstances. You're just in the city, streets are pretty flat and you're not going over 40 MPH or long distances, then you could maybe be approaching the tow limit of the vehicle but make darn sure the brakes on the vehicle and the trailer are in good working order.
cfherrman
Senior Member
Birken Vogt
Charter Member
I had that experience recently, no fan. It was a surprise to me as I did not know the clutch was broken until a long pull. The funny thing was, it would randomly work once in a while and cool things right off. Some parts of the trip were slow with the windows open and heater on. Good thing it was cool and rainy outside.
cfherrman
Senior Member
I pulled my clutch fan off around 2 years before, it was stuck on. I ran no fan until a couple months before. Ac would go out and stoplights was only side effect.
There are no 12v electric fans that can even come close to a clutch fan, you would need a 150+ amp fan. When I see people put a electric fan only on a diesel I laugh, as you will never use that thing like a diesel with electric fans.
It was a cool day around 70° luckily. On the way down I ran 70 and used 1 fan. On the way back I used both, windows down, heat on, and half throttle, I literally watched live engine data the whole time and kept the hpop under 2000 psi otherwise it would runaway with heat. I kept the engine temp under 220, otherwise it would runaway with heat. Oil temp and trans temp were normal, trans was always under coolant temp.
There are no 12v electric fans that can even come close to a clutch fan, you would need a 150+ amp fan. When I see people put a electric fan only on a diesel I laugh, as you will never use that thing like a diesel with electric fans.
It was a cool day around 70° luckily. On the way down I ran 70 and used 1 fan. On the way back I used both, windows down, heat on, and half throttle, I literally watched live engine data the whole time and kept the hpop under 2000 psi otherwise it would runaway with heat. I kept the engine temp under 220, otherwise it would runaway with heat. Oil temp and trans temp were normal, trans was always under coolant temp.
I have friends that dont run any fans on some of there pickups believe it or not. My fans are on switches i have to remember to turn it on. I agree it would be hard getting a electric fan to compere to a engine fan. My pickup over heated once with the electric fan . I was towing a full size chevy bus that had a rear brake stuck almost to the point of locking up. I have pulled 25000 pounds and never need the fan unless i was stopped .
Willie B
Senior Member
I tow only a 6500 LB camper behind a 3500 Chevy van. It can be unpleasant without equalizer hitch, dangerous without sway control.
Yet a 23,000 trailer & load behind the dump truck is fine without either.
skyking1
Senior Member
yea apples and watermelons LOL. I run about 5000 tongue weight on the 20 ton tilt. It pitches a bit on bad bridge joints, so I slow down for those.
skyking1
Senior Member
growing up in Eastern Washington, the guys with the long bed 4wd trucks did great. The jeeps seem to be just as happy sideways on the ice as going straight. They spent more time in the ditch.
92U 3406
Senior Member
I never really followed the logic on needing bigger brakes on a truck for stopping power when towing. The truck doesn't do the sole braking for the entire combination. The towing vehicle has brakes designed for its GVW. The trailer has its own brakes that are designed to handle its GVW.
I tow a few times a year, not very often I'm above 4,000 lbs but I've never felt I needed to get on the brake pedal any harder to stop. These integrated trailer brake controllers are pretty dang impressive IMO.
I tow a few times a year, not very often I'm above 4,000 lbs but I've never felt I needed to get on the brake pedal any harder to stop. These integrated trailer brake controllers are pretty dang impressive IMO.
cfherrman
Senior Member
They are great! Having big brakes on the truck especially in a 4wd is very important as the brakes don't always work on the trailer. You have to know some tricks to keep the wiring working when you drive on county roads or fields. Water corrosion can also make the brakes not work.
Welder Dave
Senior Member
Depending on how bad you need the brakes, bigger brakes would/should hold better and not fade as easily. Not always perfect conditions when on the road and there can be emergency situations.
92U 3406
Senior Member
I pretty much re-wired my trailer when it was new (like seriously, 6 year old me could have done a far superior wiring job than what comes factory on most trailers). I always test the brakes before I leave and recalibrate the gain whenever load weight changes.
A few years ago I was headed down the highway with an equipment trailer behind me. Had a car blow a stop sign and pull out onto the highway right in front of me. No where to go besides the ditch. Buried the brake pedal and it slowed like there wasn't 2,500 lbs of steel behind me. Stayed straight as an arrow the entire time. Didn't even lock the trailer tires. That was the moment I became a believer in the integrated controllers.
The half tons they build today are not the half tons of yesteryear. These things handle towing far better than the 3/4 and 1 tons from 20+ years ago. I don't max out my truck, stick to about 75% of the rating or less. That said, if I needed to tow more weight or a 5th wheel I would not hesitate in getting a 3/4 or 1 ton.
A few years ago I was headed down the highway with an equipment trailer behind me. Had a car blow a stop sign and pull out onto the highway right in front of me. No where to go besides the ditch. Buried the brake pedal and it slowed like there wasn't 2,500 lbs of steel behind me. Stayed straight as an arrow the entire time. Didn't even lock the trailer tires. That was the moment I became a believer in the integrated controllers.
The half tons they build today are not the half tons of yesteryear. These things handle towing far better than the 3/4 and 1 tons from 20+ years ago. I don't max out my truck, stick to about 75% of the rating or less. That said, if I needed to tow more weight or a 5th wheel I would not hesitate in getting a 3/4 or 1 ton.
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