• Thank you for visiting HeavyEquipmentForums.com! Our objective is to provide industry professionals a place to gather to exchange questions, answers and ideas. We welcome you to register using the "Register" icon at the top of the page. We'd appreciate any help you can offer in spreading the word of our new site. The more members that join, the bigger resource for all to enjoy. Thank you!

Readying for the KW

DMiller

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 21, 2010
Messages
16,724
Location
Hermann, Missouri
Occupation
Cheap "old" Geezer
Then the Other shoe drops
Wife has the Coof, one of her co-workers was nice enough to infect others there so all can enjoy yet again.

I have not tested have no symptoms but likely have it anyway as had only the loss of taste and smell last time. Just waiting.

Ao the two events are Off, be back at it later today.
 

56wrench

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 4, 2016
Messages
2,180
Location
alberta
All those nut covers do is trap moisture and rust the threads.
i used to run lug nut covers but when i went to change out a set of steer rubber, i found the threads out past the nuts were completely rusted off on the rh side. I likely had not taken them off for 5+ years and had forgot to remove them to coat the exposed threads. I had to replace all the studs on that side:(. I quit using them after that
 

JPV

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 20, 2015
Messages
756
Location
S.W. Washington
Awesome job Miller, love the truck and the build thread. One of the most impressive parts (there are many) to me is that you changed that air duct damper motor, how the heck did you do it without pulling the whole dash? I have never had to do it yet but have worked on most other aspects of the POS heater setups in those things and everytime I look at that motor I cringe knowing it is coming some day. If the plastic piece that connects the cam to the doors in the heater box break so they no longer function I have found that it works best to cut as big of a hole as you can right behind the glove box, make your repair and patch the hole however you see fit. The other thing that commonly happens on those is the fan motor resistor fails so you don't have all 3 fan speeds. It is buried down on the left side of the box and requires major disassembly of the lower dash to replace. I relocate it to the right side where they were for years on the old dashes and extend the wires to reach it and it works great and is easy to change the next time.
 

DMiller

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 21, 2010
Messages
16,724
Location
Hermann, Missouri
Occupation
Cheap "old" Geezer
Major PITA
Large hands did not help but managed, moved wiring and firewall insulation as could out of way and pulled lower cover below glove box.

Actually used a old Wood Chisel to clean off the rivet heads to pull motor on the mount plate, took 4.5” cut off wheel to the nuts on the small studs and still broke one. Reimagineered that.
At least only 1/8” rivets so when did get back into place and Double D drive aligned right slipped rivets into holes to hold it then hand rivet tool and set them.
Bleeding was not a optional cannot accomplish, was a necessity in the process as was leaving skin behind.
 
Last edited:

DMiller

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 21, 2010
Messages
16,724
Location
Hermann, Missouri
Occupation
Cheap "old" Geezer
Installed, not in a cumbersome spot, handy to fuse block and is active as well power to tail plugs confirmed. Cover that used to hang here was found in a side compartment, broken.
Made a 1/8” thick aluminum screw plate for behind left hand dash panel as screw tabs were as usual broken away. Panel is just above the shown point.
BF235744-DC20-450C-BCD8-6459BFF96767.jpeg
 

Truck Shop

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 7, 2015
Messages
17,248
Location
WWW.
Both of those areas on B model cabs took a beating when someone got in a hurry to remove the damper
motor or gain access above clutch pedal.. I've changed those damper motors-not a fun job better off
to figure in a 1/4 pack and three cups of coffee to complete the job. All the real late trucks the outer
dash covers are force fit tabs and all plastic, can't get in hurry removing those or will be buying new
dash parts and pieces-expensive. The plastic 7"x 11" power distribution box/fuse relay cover is a snap
in-unsnap it wrong and it's $136.00 for a late model W900L.

Dash work has always been a fight to keep your skin.
 

DMiller

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 21, 2010
Messages
16,724
Location
Hermann, Missouri
Occupation
Cheap "old" Geezer
Forgot to mention, as repaired right door inside latch also replaced door seals, all good except have to roll window down a bit to close the damn doors now.

This morning, got to fiddling with rear fenders, to Me were way too HIGH, reset the mounting and still retained 3/4-1" clearance rear duals to underside of fenders on the stops, dropped height by 1 1/2". With fifth wheel flat to frame have just at 3" from wheel deck to top of fenders.
 
Last edited:

DMiller

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 21, 2010
Messages
16,724
Location
Hermann, Missouri
Occupation
Cheap "old" Geezer
Done for winter now. Due for Sub freezing temps, WET stuff albeit freezing rain or snow or what ever coming next week. AC is down, leaked completely off what had put in it, where before fell apart my electronic detector said Compressor Shaft Seal. Will get a new unit with a clutch then pull down all the oring connections, reseal EVERYTHING and then replace drier and recharge, IN SPRING. Do not need AC currently. Appt. on the 17th NOV. 7:30am MO State Insp, with similar appt after at local shop for DOT inspect. May be able to get license prorated for 22 and full 23 first week of DEC.
 
Top