Replacement bushings have the wrong groove pattern for grease to flow

[crazydane]

I'm in the process of fixing up my Takeuchi TB260 and am replacing the main bucket pin and bushings. I got the new oem bushings in yesterday and toss them in the fridge overnight without inspecting them first. Knocked them in this morning and then noticed the grooves that allow grease to flow, don't match the originals.

My dipper arm has a single grease nibble in the center that then pushes grease out into the bushings to keep the pins greased. Here you can see the grease grooves in the old bushings extending out past the edge:



In the new bushings however, the grooves stop short of the outer edges:



Instead, they have center grease hole:



Should I just not worry about and once I get some wear in the new pin and bushings, expect that to then allow the grease to flow, or should I extend the grooves in the new bushings past the inside edge so that grease can flow into the grooves?

These are oem bushings ordered from a Takeuchi reseller, so I'm not sure if they send me the wrong ones, or the design just changed over years. My TB260 is 2018 model, so not that old.

 

[crazydane]

I went ahead and added some grooves using this:



Turned out ok I think:



I blew out with compressed air afterward, but will also wipe down with a rag soaked in diesel and than dry it real good and give it a final blow with air. Don't want any metal shavings hiding out in there.

 

[Coaldust]

That’s groovy, man.

Very awesome you are putting new life in the ol’e Takeuchi.

 

[csthompson12]

How many hours on your 260? I have a little over 2,200 on mine, very little play in any of the pins.

 

[Jonas302]

Should work nice that way

Just as a note when I replaced bushings on 320 cat also a center greasing cavity the bushings are just dimpled no groves and grease still pushes though and to the outside

 

[crazydane]

Mine has a little under 2,400 hours on it. Been going through it thoroughly and cleaning everything. Even took out the seat to clean everything inside the cab. Not only was there a layer of dust everywhere, but also nasty grease and what not. Turned out pretty nice.





Replacing both bucket pins as well as the thumb pins as all are quite worn:



Took bucket rod to get re-chromed as it had a lot of scratches in it and a pretty deep nick:



Seal was leaking, so replacing that as well.

 

[crazydane]

Got my first of new parts in:



Engine and hydraulics areas cleaned up nicely:






Replacing all fluids and filters as well:



After doing some research, I believe that Traveller Anti Wear Premium ISO 46 will be ok and also Lucas Oil 80W-90 gear oil for the final drives. Was trying to get some CAT TODO-50 / TO-4, but not get it in less than a 5 gallon bucket and I need less than a quart per side.

 

[Coaldust]

Looking good! Thanks for the photos.

 

[csthompson12]

Nice work!

 

[tantoy]

I have a tb135 and am always impressed with its reliability, feels good to keep up with things like your doing, nice work!

 

[crazydane]

Yeah, the thickness of the metal everywhere on this machine is pretty impressive. They did not cheap out anywhere from what I can tell. Spoke to the hydraulic shop and got a quote for $400 to strip, polish and re-chrome the rod. Still less expensive that a new one ($650 plus shipping), so I told them to go ahead.

New bucket cylinder seal kit came in, so I got those installed. The pieces are on the left.



There were 2 extra pieces (on top of the plastic), that are not used. I think the grey one might be for the piston, but I don't plan to replace it since it looks fine.

Also got the bushings pressed into the link (after grinding grooves into those as well:



Cleaning up the battery "tray" area as well and will sand it down and prime/repaint before rust gets a chance to take hold:



I'll pay special attention the where the grounds all connect, as that area looks particularly bad.