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Road work advice

deerefan

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 2, 2010
Messages
88
Location
northern wisconsin
Occupation
operator
The company I work for just got a contract to grade some local county gravel roads, ive been designated about 15 miles of two lane hard packed. To be honest I havent really done much road work on with the grader, mostly finish work and scraper chasing. Im just looking for some basic advice on really were to start and how to go about grading a two lane gravel road, I never really was tought the proper wey our anything like that. There not really looking for a precise slope or anything just a smooth road when im done. any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks btw machine is a 140m
 

Cat_man320

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 11, 2012
Messages
175
Location
Canada
15 miles .....how much time do you have to complete the work ? Is the two lane used very much?. is it a ditched road ? do you have a sod shoulder ? What type of material on the road ie 3/4 road gravel or is it just natural soils ?. Thats just some questions before I can comment
 

leachrod

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2012
Messages
67
Location
wichita ks
Occupation
grader operations
Don't know what material your on but all rds pretty much the same. You need drainage to keep rd passable. You need to keep a crown. Once you make a pass then you ca move material from center to other side of rd on next pass and leave a wind row on edge to go with the next time you grade rd. That is one way of maintain a rd. There are other methods of this it depends on your material and rd travel of vehicles weather solid or sft base and how often they want it graded
 

terrasmooth

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 27, 2012
Messages
83
Location
Northern Arizona USA
The company I work for just got a contract to grade some local county gravel roads, ive been designated about 15 miles of two lane hard packed. To be honest I havent really done much road work on with the grader, mostly finish work and scraper chasing. Im just looking for some basic advice on really were to start and how to go about grading a two lane gravel road, I never really was tought the proper wey our anything like that. There not really looking for a precise slope or anything just a smooth road when im done. any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks btw machine is a 140m

I have an article about this very subject on my website that you may find helpful.:)
 

leachrod

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2012
Messages
67
Location
wichita ks
Occupation
grader operations
You may also want to use a box scraper to do those roads, I use mine weekly just to scatter sand and rock to keep a smooth driving surface. Mine is a gradall brand 10ft wide and uses 4- 5ft grader blades or edges whitch ever you call them. It also allows me to finish grade leaving 2" of lose sand. And rock on top of road. If yo leave much more than that it creates trails and heavy piles of material that can be hard to drive on if you need to pass. It also allows you to grade at 11-13mph instead of the 3-4 mph on grader
 

rsherril

Senior Member
Joined
May 2, 2009
Messages
264
Location
Far West Colorado
Occupation
Geologist, Retired from teaching sciences
May be the discussion should be what not to do. Start with "do unto others .....". DO NOT leave rock larger than your surface material in the road. I carry a potato fork to clean-up with as needed for automobile traffic. I have seen roads left with 4 inch plus river rock scattered like land mines over a finished job. DO NOT attempt to blade on a muddy road. A waste of time unless you are just trying to improve some drainage. Same goes for a road without sufficient moisture unless you have a water truck available . DO NOT pull ditches until you "know" where the utilities are. Knowing where they are suppose to be won't help you much when explaining that wad of copper wire or that smell of mercaptan in the air. DO NOT use the grader to find culverts as it decreases their worth considerably. DO NOT expect traffic to equate your presence on the road with slowing down. I especially like finding a trail of oil leading from the windrow to the side of the road, or better yet, several miles of oil trail leading to an abandoned car. Expect a call from an upset citizen. If you don't put up signs at both ends, you might be responsible for those peoples (lack of) driving ability.
Most of this is common sense, but we all get in a hurry sometimes. BTW, does this contract including snow plowing ? If it does, then you can easily double this list of "do nots"
 

deerefan

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 2, 2010
Messages
88
Location
northern wisconsin
Occupation
operator
Sorry for the lack of information guys, road is 3/4 minus crushed.. sod shoulder, and they only want it graded about once a month. The county plows it themselves, there cuttin back on summer help an dont have time to grade it. Im just lookin for advice on how many passes and what direction to move the material.
 

leachrod

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2012
Messages
67
Location
wichita ks
Occupation
grader operations
Should be easy to maintain one pass each way move to crown and then to other shoulder. Sounds like the road doesn't get much traffic. My roads get 50-200 cars a day some I'm on everyday others once a week
 

farmer45

Member
Joined
Oct 25, 2012
Messages
18
Location
Kansas
If you can get the windrow over the crown in one pass you can finish the road in two passes. If you can't get it over in one pass you will need to make a second pass just to get the windrow over the crown and you can probably finish it in one more pass. Don't straddle the crown with the machine or you will get a flat center. If you get washboard like ripples or potholes in the road you have to cut them out. If you smooth them over they will come back. If the grader starts to bounce you are most likely driving to fast and you need to stop or slow up a lot real fast or it won't stop bouncing on it's own and you will have a real mess. These are a few things that I learned after 22 years working for our Township. Traffic can be interesting. I once had a school bus pass me on a bridge. I would have swarn there wasn't room but somehow she flew right by. I didn't need to feel my wrist to count my heart rate for a while.
 

deerefan

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 2, 2010
Messages
88
Location
northern wisconsin
Occupation
operator
If you can get the windrow over the crown in one pass you can finish the road in two passes. If you can't get it over in one pass you will need to make a second pass just to get the windrow over the crown and you can probably finish it in one more pass. Don't straddle the crown with the machine or you will get a flat center. If you get washboard like ripples or potholes in the road you have to cut them out. If you smooth them over they will come back. If the grader starts to bounce you are most likely driving to fast and you need to stop or slow up a lot real fast or it won't stop bouncing on it's own and you will have a real mess. These are a few things that I learned after 22 years working for our Township. Traffic can be interesting. I once had a school bus pass me on a bridge. I would have swarn there wasn't room but somehow she flew right by. I didn't need to feel my wrist to count my heart rate for a while.

so you would just cut one lane, roll it as far to the center as possible, then on the return pass grab the windrow and wing it towards the ditch?
Also the road actually gets quite a bit of traffic from crude haulers and its usually rough and beat to hell by the time they want it graded again
 

leachrod

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2012
Messages
67
Location
wichita ks
Occupation
grader operations
Yes farmer45 thank you. It would depend on how wide you're road is and what mold board you're machine has. 12-14-16-24ft but over laping the crown is key. By the way I have people pass me all the time on bridges So if you read in the news about it you know where I operate and what township. LOL
 

deerefan

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 2, 2010
Messages
88
Location
northern wisconsin
Occupation
operator
Machine is a 140M AWD, 14ft moldboard I believe. havent been down the road in a while but if I remeber right its definetly wopuld have to be a 3 wide pass road.. which brings me to my next question, would I then use the second pass just to get the first windrow over center into the opposite lane? I`m thinking the road is gonna be pretty nasty by the time i get there so im sure i will have to cut out all the holes and rough spots.. do i just roll it from side to side once or twice as im cutting the bad spots out?
man this has given me a whole new respect for them county boys
 

leachrod

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2012
Messages
67
Location
wichita ks
Occupation
grader operations
That will take more than a top grade but yes you will have to cut the ruts out. Then blade it to your satisfaction. Do the same for other side of road. This will mix you're materials so you get a better pack and holes wont come back right away. When you cut be carefull not to cut past the bottom of holes you could end up with more dirt than mix and in wet terrain you will have a slippery mud road
 

deerefan

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 2, 2010
Messages
88
Location
northern wisconsin
Occupation
operator
Haha i agree, county cutbacks I guess, Oh well it will give me some good road practice. My forman was considering some kennametal cutting edges. anyone have any experience with them.. do they work? also I really appreciate all the sound advice guys!
 

leachrod

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2012
Messages
67
Location
wichita ks
Occupation
grader operations
I use straight edges but have a scarifier on front of grader for wash boards. Can just tear up portion that needs repair not the whole road.
 
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