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Section for komatsu d20,21 and similar grey market dozers

willie59

Administrator
Joined
Dec 21, 2008
Messages
13,474
Location
Knoxville TN
Occupation
Service Manager
Well after going without a starter for almost 3 weeks and coming up with nothing - I just paid almost a $1000 to Komatsu for just a damn starter for my D21A. Talk about getting it in the rear. How can this company charge a grand for a $150 starter?


Yeah, that bites! I think Komatsu has taken lessons from the IRS on how to take your money. My boss wanted to replace the hour meter on a D65, the kind that's inside the instument panel. My Komo parts man said, I see a part number for the hour meter but not a good description of it, it's $225.00." Well, the boss want's the original, so order it. When I recieved it, (now remember this is a $225.00 original Komatsu meter, very important detail), took it out of the Komatsu part box, it was a round surface mount Hobbs hour meter! It didn't even have Komatsu on the face, it had HOBBS! You've got to be kidding me! I sent the chunk of gold back for credit, went down to my local NAPA store, and bought the exact same Hobbs meter for about 50 bucks! I wish I could sell parts for that kind of mark up. :rolleyes:
 

Brianls

Member
Joined
Jun 9, 2007
Messages
12
Location
Perry GA
Broken track

I have a D20P-6 with a broken rubber track. I have searched everywhere and I cannot find a replacement. The track size is 500x125x45. The tracks that are on there now are "Morooka" and I have been told that this grey market machine is branded "Komatsu" but it has a Morooka undercarriage. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I have a D20A-6 that came with rubber tracks. The tracks were Bridgestones and the big "K" folks wanted $4500 each and that was in 2006 I hunted around the I'net and found replacements at $6500/pr plus shipping. The new tracks are completely different. Insead of being like flat top rubber pyramids they have a farm tractor style tread. with the Bridgestones I would spin tracks at half power. With the new tracktor style tracks at 3/4 power I start to stall. Because of the chain style and using every tooth on the drive sprockets it is MUCH smoother riding. :D I have one serviceable bridgestone that I would part with for $1000 plus shipping. I'm in central Georgia near Macon.
 

Brianls

Member
Joined
Jun 9, 2007
Messages
12
Location
Perry GA
At that price for rubber tracks (not good around stones I was told) I will rather upgrade to a NICER AIR CUSHIONED SEAT!:cool2

I understand. I use my toy dozer for light clearing and yard work. Because I have to cross driveways and sidewalks the grousers or pyramids would require lots of wood or tires to not wreck their concrete work.
 

skywryder

New Member
Joined
Feb 10, 2009
Messages
2
Location
Reardan, WA
Operating on ice?

Hello,

I bought a D20 with 750 hrs on it a few weeks ago to use on the farm. We had a lot more snow than usual this year, and I have a few summer projects saved up for it, then I will probably sell it again. This is my third dozer and by far the smallest, still learning about it. I have the factory SM and IPM on Cd if someone needs something.

This time of winter we now have two things that will have you wishing for a ROPS... ice and slopes. Also, when trying to push deep snow I find the light weight machine wants to go sideways when you angle the blade even more than others I have seen. You can't really even steer it much with the clutches in deep heavy snow, you just tilt the blade opposite the angle and you can do some work laying power down until you start to spin which can be soon. You have to steer with the blade elevation, lower turns you left if the blade is angled right.

I know that others have welded re-bar on the grousers, with the intention that they will last through the winter then wear off. I am wondering if anyone on here might have some experience with it? I am thinking of a 1 1/2" pc on the outside of every other grouser, maybe one in the middle of the others?

Has anyone ever cut the pads for snow relief? I have the std steel pads. Not sure if I have to as I do not run it that much, but I know it is hard on it without.

I am wondering how the pyramid tracks do in the snow? Side traction?

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks, great forum you have here.
 

HDPSCORP

Member
Joined
Feb 6, 2009
Messages
18
Location
Cleveland/TN

HDPSCORP

Member
Joined
Feb 6, 2009
Messages
18
Location
Cleveland/TN
I am wondering how the pyramid tracks do in the snow? Side traction?

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks, great forum you have here.


I found this information:




There are 2 model numbers that show transmission type.

D20 = direct drive transmission. This is a standard shift, where you operate a foot clutch and shift with a lever mounted on the floor. Very similar to a standard shift truck and same benefits. Simple, long lasting and more power to the running gear. Very durable and idea for remote location use. The 3rd forward speed is very fast for overland travel.

D21 = power shift transmission or hydrostatic. This allows shifting without using a clutch. You still have to shift to change direction and speed, but the lever is mounted on the side by armrest. There is still a clutch if you need it for close in work. 2 forward speeds /2 reverse. U pattern with neutral in the center forward. This provides a more open cab design than the direct drive models. Faster operation is one benefit.

There are 2 letter designations after the model number that show track type

A Model = Standard track width. On the factory "A" model the shoes are a 12" single grouser with 5.1 psi ground pressure. Blade width is just over 7'. On the models that we convert the shoes, we install a slightly wider 13.5" single grouser for 4.75 psi ground pressure.

P Model = wide track. On the factory "P" model the shoes are 20" pyramid or swamp type shoes with 3.4 psi ground pressure. Some have grouser bar welded to the top for additional traction. These are an excellent low ground pressure pad and are self cleaning and will run in snow without plugging. They are rough riding on rocky ground, do not provide as much traction as the single grouser shoes and tend to break in hard ground applications. Blade width on the "P" model is 8'-4" and angles to 8'.

We can convert the "P" models to an "A" model by changing out the track shoes to an improved 13.5" single grouser shoe or the factory spec 20" single grouser shoe. The 13.5" shoe increases the ground pressure to 4.75 psi but you have the advantage of increased traction, keep the larger blade of a "P" model and the tracks are more offset from the machine providing a wider stance and more stability. We believe this modification gives you an excellent machine/track combination and is only available from us. We have the shoe plates and bolts in stock to do whatever you prefer.

APPLYING THE ABOVE:

D21P - is a powershift wide track
D20P - is a direct drive wide track
D21A - is a powershift narrow track
D20A - is a direct drive narrow track

The only other model designation is the -5, -6 or -7
Models ending in -5 are pre 1985
Models ending in -6 are 1985-1992
Models ending in -7 are 1992 or newer
There are also some -7 models produced after 1997 that have a single lever blade control and the 2 speed in the directional joystick

The -7 models are different in that they have the latest refinements. The most significant is the option of having a single lever (or joystick) steering control. They are also quieter, have full engine side covers and turn off with the key. The -7 models are quicker and are typically the high end contractor models.
All can be outfitted with a Roll Over Protection System canopy to replace the fiberglass rain canopy. We stock all steel canopies. (RO
 

skywryder

New Member
Joined
Feb 10, 2009
Messages
2
Location
Reardan, WA
Operating on ice?

I found this information:

P Model = wide track. On the factory "P" model the shoes are 20" pyramid or swamp type shoes with 3.4 psi ground pressure. Some have grouser bar welded to the top for additional traction. These are an excellent low ground pressure pad and are self cleaning and will run in snow without plugging. They are rough riding on rocky ground, do not provide as much traction as the single grouser shoes and tend to break in hard ground applications. Blade width on the "P" model is 8'-4" and angles to 8'.
(RO

Hi,

Thanks for the reply, yes that is a snip from the web page where I bought the machine. I cannot imagine one of these things with wide pads, wow, talk about low ground pressure! You could drive on marshmallows...

If a person wanted to keep one of these and use it to push snow, you would have to do something for traction. This is of course the case with all tracked machines, they will just slide on hard snow or ice, especially sideways. Can be a lot of fun watching the scenery whiz by if you are sitting in one, not used to moving so fast and all. Let's see, is that seat belt still stuck under the battery cable?

You can buy ice cleats that bolt to pads for many machines, I have not seen them for this one. They can be a bitch though when it comes time to load the machine on a trailer unless you have a tilt bed. Also the pads need to be cut to let the snow squeeze through or you can lose a track or break something. I am sure the pyramids clean pretty well.

Just wondering if anyone uses one of this micro wonders to push snow, and what their experiences might be? Pyramids with cleats might be the best, but expensive. The prospect of swapping pads twice a year seems daunting even on the little guy. A whole new chain with pads. ouch. Then of course there is the joy of swapping tracks twice a year...

Have also thought about fabricating cleats to bolt on the track pads. Have a local fab shop build some pieces, make a jig, weld em up. Probably only need one every other pad, or every third. But you would still need snow relief holes?

Like most things in life, I am sure I am destined to repeat the mistakes of others before I figure it out.... start with the rebar weld method. Cheap, not too much time invested, could try it and add more if needed. By the time I get good at it, I should never have to do it again....

Thanks again!
 

BrentD

Active Member
Joined
Jul 19, 2008
Messages
25
Location
Cameron, TX
Have a 1988 BD2G that is running great. When we bought it, the steering just didn't quite feel right, so I ordered a set of manuals and adjusted it. It was better for a while, but now both sides groan quite a bit when making harder turns and pulling the right-hand side steering lever bogs the engine down a bit. Funny thing is, it bogs down for a second or two and then picks up almost like the clutch is sticking a bit but breaks loose when the brake band engages. Is that possible?
 

VinceF

New Member
Joined
Feb 4, 2009
Messages
3
Location
toronto
Hello,

I bought a D20 with 750 hrs on it a few weeks ago to use on the farm. We had a lot more snow than usual this year, and I have a few summer projects saved up for it, then I will probably sell it again. This is my third dozer and by far the smallest, still learning about it. I have the factory SM and IPM on Cd if someone needs something.

This time of winter we now have two things that will have you wishing for a ROPS... ice and slopes. Also, when trying to push deep snow I find the light weight machine wants to go sideways when you angle the blade even more than others I have seen. You can't really even steer it much with the clutches in deep heavy snow, you just tilt the blade opposite the angle and you can do some work laying power down until you start to spin which can be soon. You have to steer with the blade elevation, lower turns you left if the blade is angled right.

I know that others have welded re-bar on the grousers, with the intention that they will last through the winter then wear off. I am wondering if anyone on here might have some experience with it? I am thinking of a 1 1/2" pc on the outside of every other grouser, maybe one in the middle of the others?

Has anyone ever cut the pads for snow relief? I have the std steel pads. Not sure if I have to as I do not run it that much, but I know it is hard on it without.

I am wondering how the pyramid tracks do in the snow? Side traction?

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks, great forum you have


here.


Hi ,
I have a D-20P-6 and have cleared snow with it on the farm for 3 years now.The pyramid tracks dig in and do a great job.I have had no problems with steering even with the blade angled all the way.Sure does push a lot of snow.By the way I could really use a copy of the parts manual for this machine.Can you email it to me? [email protected]
Thanks in advance
Vince
 

IdleUp

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2009
Messages
104
Location
Roanoke, VA
Have a 1988 BD2G that is running great. When we bought it, the steering just didn't quite feel right, so I ordered a set of manuals and adjusted it. It was better for a while, but now both sides groan quite a bit when making harder turns and pulling the right-hand side steering lever bogs the engine down a bit. Funny thing is, it bogs down for a second or two and then picks up almost like the clutch is sticking a bit but breaks loose when the brake band engages. Is that possible?

I didn't get if you had a D20 or D21 - if it's a D21, when you adjust the band barake you'll also have to adjust the valve in the rear so the drive dis-engages at the right point when you pull the brake / steering lever. On the D21 when you pull the lever it does two thing it applies the band brake and disengages the drive on that track.
 

BrentD

Active Member
Joined
Jul 19, 2008
Messages
25
Location
Cameron, TX
I didn't get if you had a D20 or D21 - if it's a D21, when you adjust the band barake you'll also have to adjust the valve in the rear so the drive dis-engages at the right point when you pull the brake / steering lever. On the D21 when you pull the lever it does two thing it applies the band brake and disengages the drive on that track.

It's a Mistubishi BD2G. I've got the complete shop manuals on it, just not entirely sure exactly what the clutches are doing.
 

darinray

Charter Member
Joined
Nov 15, 2003
Messages
435
Location
Delevan, NY
Occupation
Owner-Equipment & Parts Sales
Actually like you mentioned it is probably the clutches stuck together until you bog the motor down and tighten the brake band around the clutch pack that breaks them free. That works sometimes but won't eventually. :( A lot of times the drum gets filled with clutch material and brake material along with rust and then the clutches can't slide to release freely. The steel plates are probably rusted which makes them expand in width not allowing the steering clutch release cylinder to let them release. Run it till it doesn't work anymore. :) I keep drums, clutches, plates, brake bands, and bearings for the complete task on the shelf here.

Darin
 

keito

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 28, 2009
Messages
46
Location
southaven mississippi
Oil Change

How was changing the oil for the first time. Did you have to crawl under the machine I suppose so right? Prop the blade up? I will be attempting it soon and don't want to make any mistakes. Thanks
Keito
Howdy guys
I am a new owner of an old Kom D21P-6. Been pushing a lot of brush and smaller trees with it. It runs mighty good. I can't make new posts yet.
I just bought a new hydraulic filter for it today. Can't get one from anywhere but Komatsu ... but all other filters are available from normal sources.
I have ordered all the manuals from SSB Tractor.
So far, I have changed all fluids and filters.
Welded on it for 3 days.
Adjusted all linkages.
Installed a new coolant temp gauge and an oil press gauge.
Rewired some stuff on it.
Adjusted the tracks by the book.
Been told I got screwed when I bought it.
Found out I can't find another one anywhere around here and the guy who said I got screwed wants to sell me one for over twice what I paid for this one....ha ha ha ha ha ha......the jerk!!!!!
So far, it has done really well for me, but then, I never even ran one before, so can't really compare it with anything, but my tractor...ha ha
Hope to see more posts about these machines.
Thanks, Pete in MS
 

kc5gxc

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 8, 2007
Messages
75
Location
Poplarville, MS
Occupation
Retired
Hi Keito and all.....Yep, you crawl under to get to the drain plug. Remove the cover plate first...17mm bolt head with one bolt, I think. You will see the drain plug. I go under machine from the rear...ain't crawling under no blade! Drain oil per manual....warm engine. The engine will hold 2 gallons of oil with a filter change. I use 30 weight diesel engine oil. I always change filter with oil. You can get filters from O'reilly's but they need to order them for you..get 'em in overnite.
Wix filter # 51206.
I built me a place to park machine under a little shed. Built up spaces under the tracks, so machine is up higher when I crawl under. I use a piece of plywood about 2' x 8' to lay on. I can drain oil into a 5 gal bucket....that's how high the dozer is on the pads I made. You gonna get real nasty, so don't wear your Sunday clothes....ha ha.
Good Luck.......Pete/Poplarville
 

IdleUp

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2009
Messages
104
Location
Roanoke, VA
Either one will work - I like the wood since it does have more traction for loading and the machine slides around less.
 
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