Section for komatsu d20,21 and similar grey market dozers

[GuglioLS]

Frank,

Thanks for asking. I will try to help answer some of your questions. First the ROPS, The uprights are 3" X 1/4" wall hollow square tubing. I have one pic for now, and will get you some more as soon as I take some close up's, re-size and upload them. Give me a couple of days to do that.

Adding a valve like I did involves removing the floor plate, Seat, seat plate, rear plate between the hydraulic and fuel tanks. Then remove the soft line and hard line from the hydraulic pump all the way to the control valve. Install a Open center valve with ~ 20 GPM capacity and 3/4" in & out ports somewhere like mine Then get two new hoses made up, with Komatsu JIS 22 mm x 1.5 mm metric female 30* cone seat fittings on one end and 3/4" pipe thread on the other. One end connects to the hydraulic pump, the other to the IN of the new valve, from the OUT of the new valve to the IN of the OEM blade control valve. To get hose lengths use some old garden hose routed through the system to get the lengths just right.

Larry

 

[Frank Dozer]

Dozer Valve........

Larry, Thanks for the info. I look forward to more pictures. The valve you mentioned is at Nortrac.com which is Northern Tool. They have 2 open valves.
RD-2575-T4-EDX-1 and RD-2575-M4-EDA1. Do you recommend either valve?
Also, the installation of the lines and valve seems easier than I expected. Frank

 

[GuglioLS]

Frank,

Those valves are motor control spool valves. Which means when the valve is in the center position, both work ports (A & B) are open (Connected to each other). If a motor control spool valve is used on cylinders, the cylinder will not lock or hold it's position when the valve returns to the center (neutral) position.

I would recommend a valve from Surplus Center item 9-6701-F, it will lock the cylinder in any position you set, plus the valve has a detented float position, which will allow your home made TPH setup to float much like that of a traditional TPH on a tractor. With that valve when you lift the TPH, the cylinder will lock and stay where you put it for transporting from one location to another, plus you can get down pressure, or set the valve to the float position so the TPH will raise and lower with the contours of the land. Open center means the in and out ports are open to each other (In the center or neutral position) allowing fluid to always flow from the pump back to the tank. An open center cylinder control valve will lock the cylinder in place when the valve is in the center or neutral position (Work ports A & B are blocked, in and out are open to each other) Float position = in and out open to each other and A & B work ports are open to each other, in the float position, fluid from the pump flows through the valve back to tank, and the A & B work (Cylinder) ports are open to each other allowing a cylinder to move back and forth (with some resistance to move the fluid through the cylinder and lines)

The valve below would be my choice for a home made TPH setup. In fact if I were going through all the trouble making a TPH setup for a dozer, I would have a hydraulic top link, and two hydraulic cylinders for the lift links (one for each side) also known as TNT (Top -N- Tilt). No doubt you have seen a TNT setup on a tractor.

CLICK HERE

Surplus Center Item # 9-6701-F

Larry

This is the TPH TNT setup on my tractor:

 

[Frank Dozer]

Dozer Valve

Hello Larry, Just when I'm all set with what to do, You've thrown me a curve ball nad it sounds good. Well, let's do it right !!! You design the hydraulics and I'll design and fabricate the metal parts. Is there 1 valve that will do all you talked about? I have a metal fab shop so, fabrication is no sweat. This past weekend I purchased a new 6" KingKutter landscape rake and I'm ready to go.

 

[GuglioLS]

Hello Larry, Just when I'm all set with what to do, You've thrown me a curve ball.......snip.

Sorry about that Frank, my bad. OK here is the suggested valve to control 3 cylinders. It's a SV (Sectional Valve) that you "build it yourself" sort of. Actually it's custom ordered with the features you want and you put it together. The complete part # would be 9SV-3-DDD Surplus Center SV valve CLICK HERE The valve is a 3 section valve, each section is a three position double action cylinder valve spring return to center with a detented 4th position for float. Of course the price goes up dramatically, from the original one spool valve.

So, you have a metal fab shop? Sweet, you should be able to knock out something like this no sweat. The ROPS you are asking about should be duck soup for you as well. I got some close up pics of my ROPS for you. Which dozer do you have?

Larry

Valve:

 

[GuglioLS]

ROPS mounting system close-ups

Here are the close up pic's of my ROPS mounting system FrankDozer was asking about, I think Frank wants to make his own ROPS in his metal fab shop. Is that right Frank? Here are four pics, I have two more to for the next reply as there is a 5 pic limit per post.

The plates are 5/8" thick that have been plasma cut, bent and or cut and welded to match the contours at the rear of the fuel and hydraulic tanks. Holes were drilled to line up with existing plate bolts.

Larry

 

[GuglioLS]

Here are the balance of the ROPS and mounting system:
Larry

 

[GuglioLS]

Frank,

That three spool valve is going to need some fittings.
Get two of these for the in & out: SAE 8M x 3/4 NPTF 90* SWIVEL

Then for the work ports to the cylinders- are you going to use quick connects so you can remove the TPH assembly? or are you going to hard plumb it for a more permanent installation? Obviously the fittings will be different for which way you go. I suggest using 3/8" id hose max. There really is no need to have huge ID hose going to the cylinders as they will not be cycled very often, flow rate or heat build up is not going to be an issue so you might as well save costs by using the smallest ID hose and fittings possible. The valve takes SAE 8M fittings Here is a link to the SAE 8M fittings and adapters: CLICK HERE
These are the quick connects CLICK HERE

Larry

 

[IdleUp]

I've decided to put new steering brake bands on my 1985 D21A - does anyone have a source for the parts?

Thanks

 

[Danny B]

I have another question about batteries. It was my understanding the OEM batteries were 750CCA each. Is that correct? Would that make the total CCA 1500? I called my local NAPA and asked about the 5051 battery. I was told the CCA on it was only 450. Can I get more info? I think I found a battery at wal-mart that would fit. It is the best battery they sell. Three year full replacement. Nine year total warrenty. $75.00 each, cheaper that NAPA 5051 at $86.49 each. CCA is 900 each. Is there any drawback to using two batteries that are this much over what is needed?

 

[jughead]

i think the amperage on 2 batteries stays the same if they are hooked in series it doubles the voltage only

 

[darinray]

Yeah call DM Machinery LLC at 716-397-5963 cell.

I've decided to put new steering brake bands on my 1985 D21A - does anyone have a source for the parts?

Thanks

 

[GuglioLS]

I've decided to put new steering brake bands on my 1985 D21A - does anyone have a source for the parts?
Thanks

IdleUp,
Do you have the part # ? Are you going to replace the entire break band assembly or just the linings? Darin has posted throughout this section that he has available all the break and clutch parts. I see he has done so again for your convenience. When you get your parts and start taking it apart, I sure would be interested in you posting pictures and a description of the process. I am willing the bet that many here would really like to see what it takes to do that. Please take the time to take and post a boat load of pictures.

Larry

 

[GuglioLS]

i think the amperage on 2 batteries stays the same if they are hooked in series it doubles the voltage only

JugHead, You are 100% correct, batteries in series will produce the amperage available from the lowest rating of all the batteries in series. Voltage of each battery is added to solve for total volts.

Danny B -
Do not be concerned about having "too many CCA's" there is no such thing. If a billion CCA amps were available, the starter will only draw the amount of amps based on load and resistance of the starter motor windings.

Sounds like you found a reasonable priced battery from wally world, what brand / model # is it?

Larry

 

[Danny B]

Larry
The battery I think will fit is the MAXX-35N (yellow). I haven't tried to fit it in yet. Was waiting on some info from you guys. The height and length are almost the same as the OEM batteries; 8 in and 9 in. The width may be my challenge. It is 6 1/2 in, where the old battery is 5 in. I think I can make it fit. Can anyone tell me how many CCA is minimum in case this doesn't work and I have to look at other less powerful batteries?

 

[Danny B]

Also, thanks to jughead for the info on the amps. I should have remembered that from my basic electronic training at Kessler AFB. But, that was a few years back.

 

[earl1957]

This is my first post maybe I'll get it close to right. I'm not even sure I'm asking the right question,but they say the only dumb question is the question that's never asked.I have ap310 Komatsu track loader that Ineed a starter (24v) for.
Earl1957

 

[earl1957]

I'm in the hospital without nothing much else to do so I'll go ahead and post another question.I also have a p21d-6 dozer.We put new steering cluches in it not to many hours ago.It seemed to work pretty good for a while except one side was hard to stear,and by that I mean the stearing leaver was hard to pull.It would stear it just took a lot more pulling pressure to get it to act like the other side.Now comes my question hear lately when it gets in a bind one side quits pulling.We call ourself's having done a major ajustment on all the linkages,but did no good.We have'nt checked any of the pressurers but let me state right hear profectnels (see I cant even spell it) we are not.Mybe there is someone who knows something were over looking.If so please help us out and maybe we'll be able to return the favor sometime.
By the way this is a wonderful site.I've read every post in this FORUM.I'VE owned equipment of one kind or the other for over 20 years so I feel for sure somewhere down the road I'll be able to help someone.I'm thanking y'all in advance for any and all help I can get.

 

[GuglioLS]

This is my first post maybe I'll get it close to right. I'm not even sure I'm asking the right question,but they say the only dumb question is the question that's never asked.I have ap310 Komatsu track loader that Ineed a starter (24v) for.
Earl1957

Hi Earl,
Welcome, do you happen to have a part #? if so try searching for it here:
http://www.andersonequip.com/product_support/parts/

I did a google search on an ap310 track loaded and came up empty handed, is ap310 the correct model?

My experience tells me a new starter will be way over priced, somewhere in the thousands of dollars Something that should normally cost 150 is marked up at least a 1000%. I highly recommend the started be removed and taken to a rebuild shop to have it repaired / re-wound.

Larry

 

[earl1957]

I put in the wrong model# its ap31d track loader.