Guys in my shop can tell you I preach to them "if it don't get Locktite...it gets Never-sieze!"
that's just cause you might still be working when it needs to be removed again!!! LOL I use plenty of it also
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Stubborn Bolts - Advice Needed
- Thread starter zmountain
- Start date
that's just cause you might still be working when it needs to be removed again!!! LOL I use plenty of it also
willie59
Administrator
that's just cause you might still be working when it needs to be removed again!!! LOL I use plenty of it also
A: I sure hope so.
B: Yes, like machine cover panels and belly panels, they get greased with Never seize. Heck, I even use it on spark plug threads on the rare occasion I work on a spark engine.
A: I sure hope so.
B: Yes, like machine cover panels and belly panels, they get greased with Never seize. Heck, I even use it on spark plug threads on the rare occasion I work on a spark engine.
like a buddy of mine tells all the new guys "its even good on a ham sandwich" LOL
willie59
Administrator
In all honesty, as much as I use it, I've probably had it on a ham sandwich, that stuff has a way of getting on everything you touch.
Nige
Senior Member
The one problem with anti-seize compounds is that if the OEM didn't use it in their initial assembly and it's used while doing repair work the OEM torque spec (if there is one) is probably anywhere from 150% to double what is needed to get the required bolt tightness because of the reduction in friction, especially if applied to the threads and the taper on a bolt like the one in the photo above. I've seen bolts broken that way.
Good point Nige .
That's where common experience comes in . After a few broken bolts or stripped threads a young feller will finally get the feel on how hard pull on a wrench in a given situation .
Track pads , wheels , & engines require good threads in order to get a firm stretch on the bolt or stud to keep things tight . To keep threads in top shape I like to use some type of lube on them .
It's pretty rare for myself to reach for a torque wrench . After awhile .... Well .... You just get the feel for it .
That's where common experience comes in . After a few broken bolts or stripped threads a young feller will finally get the feel on how hard pull on a wrench in a given situation .
Track pads , wheels , & engines require good threads in order to get a firm stretch on the bolt or stud to keep things tight . To keep threads in top shape I like to use some type of lube on them .
It's pretty rare for myself to reach for a torque wrench . After awhile .... Well .... You just get the feel for it .
willie59
Administrator
It's pretty rare for myself to reach for a torque wrench . After awhile .... Well .... You just get the feel for it .
Amen, same here for me TD. Aside from torque specific fasteners, such as head bolts on an engine, I rarely if not never use a torque wrench. I've been working with all manner of fasteners for so many years that the feel in my hands on the tool is the torque wrench. :drinkup
Scrub Puller
Senior Member
Yair . . .
So you fellers have that click thing in your elbow too? (big grin)
Cheers
So you fellers have that click thing in your elbow too? (big grin)
Cheers
repowerguy
Senior Member
- Joined
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My wrist clicks on inch pound stuff, elbow is for foot pound!
willie59
Administrator
Shimmy1
Senior Member
With all the smart talking, was wondering if anybody was going to mention engine assembly. Nobody is that good. It's one of the only jobs I use a torque wrench for, too. That and stuff that involves aluminum. **truck wheels not included** Then, if there is a torque spec, it gets followed. Also, there are those rare wheel bearings that require "rolling torque". Never have quite gotten what THAT engineer was thinking when he dreamed that up.
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nowing75
Senior Member
If your looking for the bees wax you can just get a toilet seal. It also works great on a band saw for lube
Nige
Senior Member
Cat articulation hitch bearings have to be set at a "rolling torque" also.
My point about the use of anti-seize is when it's used in conjunction with a specified amount of foot pounds of torque on the bolt when the manual doesn't call for anti-seize. I had a situation once where an entire front wheel and spindle assembly fell off a truck in the shop during reassembly after a suspension replacement when a set of new brand bolts holding the spindle assembly to the taper on the bottom of the suspension let go simply because the assembly procedure didn't call for anti-seize and the mechanic liberally lathered the bolts with it, then pulled them up to the manufacturer's specifed torque. 12 x 1" bolts (rapidly followed by a 4000lb wheel group) came down faster than the zipper in your jeans ........
Scrub Puller
Senior Member
Yair . . .
Okay fellers, I'll show my ignorance again, what is "rolling torque" and how do you set it?
Cheers.
Okay fellers, I'll show my ignorance again, what is "rolling torque" and how do you set it?
Cheers.
Nige
Senior Member
It's how much torque is required to rotate whatever assembly the bearings support. It requires the use of a dial-type torque wrench, and you'll find that the amount of torque required to start the assembly rotating is always slightly higher than that which is required to keep it rolling. Generally rolling torque is specified on a pair of taper roller bearings and the adjustment is made by using shims under the bearing cap or a big adjusting nut on the spindle.
LOL! Never would have thought of that, bowl-wax seal, yeah!
Scrub Puller
Senior Member
Yair . . . .
Gotcha fellers, same familiar old chit, just high falutin' different name . . . I always thought the classic was bevel gear/cross shafts, whatever you want to call them.
You set the preload on the bearings and then pull it all to bits, fit the bevel gear and start swapping shims around to get contact pattern and backlash . . . as lantraxco mentions fun.
Cheers.
Gotcha fellers, same familiar old chit, just high falutin' different name . . . I always thought the classic was bevel gear/cross shafts, whatever you want to call them.
You set the preload on the bearings and then pull it all to bits, fit the bevel gear and start swapping shims around to get contact pattern and backlash . . . as lantraxco mentions fun.
Cheers.
nowing75
Senior Member
Bees wax also works good on burr bit on die grinder on aluminum to keep it from clogging up.