Takeuchi TB235 track problems....

[Mrpush]

Hi,

3rd time i popped a track!

Third times a charm! Pulling on track, i catch my thumb on
a sharp piece of metal under rear....fillet my thumb like a fish! Off to the ER I go, no work today or for 10 more!

Anyway, what gives with the grease tension-er and the front idler assembly?????

Front idler assembly falls out while i trying to get the popped side up slope. now cant get it back in correctly!!!

The rod and spring part are slightly bowed...and i dont think the pin is going into the receiver properly! does only the center of the receiver where the pin end goes push grease out? Impossible to "guide" it in with such tight quarters in the frame.

I'm beating the crap out of the idler trying to push it in w the bucket....I have the grease port open 2 full turns (manual say only 1.5 max) and im getting like almost no grease out!

I cant get the track back on if that idler is not fully back. What gives????

I have done this twice already same side, grease came out better and i could push idler in w bucket...not this time. and im on a slope in the worst possible spot. not getting machine out without both tracks on!!!

next, why these so bad on slopes???? maybe 15 degrees slope. POP off it goes again! First time my fault, I was on a slope and hit a small stump i didn't see which did it. 2nd time i have not idea...not on much slope at all...but was mounding soil in the track on downhill side...POP!

3rd time about the same but more slope. I was going slow, was not changing directions abruptly. POP.

I have it set to spec..about 3.25" mid gap as per manual. Do these thing just not do slopes well??? I can see the other track is ready to come off too...they shift laterally down slope in the middle...and the center rollers disengage...then..a little rock or to much movement and POP..off it comes! that is terrible!!!

now the track are about 50% and maybe they are worn more than I'm thinking on the inner steel lugs or something causing the pop offs???

Its my first Mini Ex so I dont know.

Any advice on getting the front idler in easily and correctly and why does the grease cylinder not seem to be letting out grease???

(also when filling it, as much grease as would go in would come out around zerk. thats 3 on this machine that do that. Grease gun in brand new and does all other zerks on other machines without leaks...making me think its the zerks on this machine not the gun.

Not much I can do for a week now till my thumb heals....can do this easy with two let alone one hand!!!

Any tips and tricks would be helpful!

Thanks!

MP

 

[suladas]

From what you are saying is the idler tensions the track, but googling the machine it shows that it is actually the roller on top of the track frame? First off i'd be sure to check which one is actually the one that tensions the tracks. If it's the idler i've found you need to just keep slowly loosening the nut, and then stand on bottom of track to force it down. If it is the idler you can use the bucket to push it back in carefully.

The reason the tracks come off is either very shape turn, an object pushing it off or running them too lose. Most likely too loose. I have thrown a track quite a few times on my 153FR, same one each time as the tensioner is bent a bit and won't tighten track to spec, I don't even loosen it to pop it back on. Driving carefully keeps it on, no tight turns is the biggest thing. But if they are adjusted properly, they will not come off easily. Wear shouldn't be a problem, mine are probably down to 15-20% left they don't really seem to stretch much. Possibly wrong spec?

If the track is popped off towards the outside of the idler i've found it to be pretty easy to slowly drive ahead and use the bucket pushing the track back on.

 

[uffex]

Good day
I believe you have explained why you are loosing your track a similar experience is explained in the attached, this adds up if it is the same side which derails on each occasion.
Kind regards
Uffex

 

[Mrpush]

From what you are saying is the idler tensions the track, but googling the machine it shows that it is actually the roller on top of the track frame? First off i'd be sure to check which one is actually the one that tensions the tracks. If it's the idler i've found you need to just keep slowly loosening the nut, and then stand on bottom of track to force it down. If it is the idler you can use the bucket to push it back in carefully.

The reason the tracks come off is either very shape turn, an object pushing it off or running them too lose. Most likely too loose. I have thrown a track quite a few times on my 153FR, same one each time as the tensioner is bent a bit and won't tighten track to spec, I don't even loosen it to pop it back on. Driving carefully keeps it on, no tight turns is the biggest thing. But if they are adjusted properly, they will not come off easily. Wear shouldn't be a problem, mine are probably down to 15-20% left they don't really seem to stretch much. Possibly wrong spec?

If the track is popped off towards the outside of the idler i've found it to be pretty easy to slowly drive ahead and use the bucket pushing the track back on.

Hi...thanks for tips. its the idler that tensions the track. I did notice some grease wad around zerk this last time....like it leaked grease even though but was tight. This could have caused loosening. I may pull tensioner out completely to inspect and clean. In such a bad spot...,ugh.......

Thx

MP

 

[Mrpush]

Good day
I believe you have explained why you are loosing your track a similar experience is explained in the attached, this adds up if it is the same side which derails on each occasion.
Kind regards
Uffex

Hi, ummm, wow. U r impressive with your knowledge. Yes, the spring is bowed. It was the first thing i noticed when i picked it up..."is that supposed to Be bowed?" I mentioned this made it very hard to get idler back in. (But it sure fell out easy, lol) I think the idler wheel looked ok....but I will double check it for uneven wear as in your graphic. (Again very impressive).

So u are saying that a 90 degree spin on this spring will help my track popping issues?

I still think I have a tensioner issue...grease not coming out this time....it like its stuck or something. Last time I pushed it in w bucket easy.

And I noted gob of grease around zerk this time before I loosened it...like some leaked out even though nut was tight. Do they have seals that go bad? Can I take the nut all the way off w out issues? It there a nut on inside holding tensioner in? (If so looks like I have to remove a roller to get at it...all in the worst spot ever...go figure)

This could explain my last pop off...if it loosened on me.

Well I will spin that spring, check for uneven idler wear, and Maybe pull out tensioner for complete inspection and testing, all in the middle of woods, on steep slope, w mud and brush all around, and it poured rain last night, and i get to try this all with only one hand! Great fun! Ahahhahahhah!

Thanks for the help!

MP

 

[uffex]

Good day Mrpush
Thank you for your kind remarks may i mention that springs coming from Asia are often suspect compared to those coming from other sources, contributing here is part of my Atzheimer's prevention program so your comments encourage dodging the retirement home wheel chair.
Good luck with the fix.
Uffex

 

[Mrpush]

Good day Mrpush
Thank you for your kind remarks may i mention that springs coming from Asia are often suspect compared to those coming from other sources, contributing here is part of my Atzheimer's prevention program so your comments encourage dodging the retirement home wheel chair.
Good luck with the fix.
Uffex

Ok, so after deciding I'm going to forget about this machine for the day, and just relaxing with my family, I end up back at this machine stuck in the woods. Its funny how I dont want to leave it out there, like its a pet or something. Maybe its because I realize HOW MUCH MANUAL LABOR these machines can save folks, and how much they can get done so quickly. It WOWS me every time I use the thing!

So last I left it, I had the grease nut loosened past where the manual sated, and I was banging on the bare idler with the bucket to try to get it back far enough to accept the track. (The track blew totally off when i was trying to turn the machine track side up-slope.) sucker WOULD NOT BUDGE! And very little grease came out the loosened nut.

So today I just plan on taking the entire grease tensioner out caseu "something ain't right". Did this last time and lots grease came out and I easily pushed the idler back with bucket.

So at first after reading antoher fourm where guy had similar issue, i decide to check the zerk first for function. So I look up the parts manual and see that this grease "bolt" is just a bolt with a zerk in the end, no special "grease groves" like on some. So i figure what the heck I'll just take the bolt all the way out. Maunal states "do not loosen past 1.5 turns" Eh, enough of this non-sense! Its coming out!!!

I turn it all the way out. Like 20 turns. And its just a bolt with zerk and hole all the way through the middle, with a hold at 90 degrees mid bolt. Huh, who knew?

With removal no grease came out, but i know there is no tension on the piston as the idler is barely pushed in to normal position, let alone drawn back all the way.

So I figure well, lets push on the idler again with bucket.

I BARELY touch it, and it pushes all the way back with ease!!!! I get our and confirm the coiled red grease "RATTLER" under the grease port on the ground.

I think "WHAT THE???" How could i open that thing 1 turn the last time i had to do this and grease came out easily and idler pushed back easily, and then this time with same loosening its not BUDGING with me banging on it with the bucket?!?!?!? ITS A FREAK OF NATURE!!!! HOW CAN THIS HAPPEN??? NO CHANGE! No temp change, not grease density changes, nothing different besides the day and time! Works one day, but not the next??? ITS MADDENING!

Well I laughed it up a bit. Murphys law I guess, but the Good Lord helped me keep my sanity.

With my one hand down, I had my son come help me.

He says "where is the track". I said over there. He is thinking "oh, not big deal". Then I say "ok you ready to wrestle thing back on?" he say yep. Then he tries to life his end..like a couple times...and is like "what the heck, this thing is HEAVY! AHHAHAHAHAH!!!! I said "told you so, and I put it back on twice already myself" Good fun, he is a great kid and he was great help.

So we get it on, and grease it back up "after" i pirated a zerk fro another spot as the one in the tensioner looked a little funny and it would leak a lot of grease around it.

So the new one with my dewalt powered grease gun, STILL contines to leak grease as I'm putting it in. Literally like half goes in and half leakes around. Its bizzare. Maybe a pressure thing?

Anyway i break out the "lock n lube" grease fitting and it does a much better job!!!

So I pump away, and i get to a point of 3.25" track to bottom of frame, and it just stops taking grease even with lock and lube. so i figure its maxed. Spec says 3 to 3.5". I'd like to get 3" but it wont do it. Maybe my track is stretched or something???

Anyway question of my bowed idler spring. After inspection, the idler looks pretty good, i cant see any notable uneven wear. and then it occurs to me, that the bow was top to bottom, not laterally so it not skewing my idler left or right.

Could a top to bottom skew somehow have a similar effect as to why this right track keeps jumping off?

I did not turn the spring 90 as I just wanted to get the thing out of the wood and mud.

Thanks for the insight here you guys, its back at the RANCH again....lol. Only loss is use of my thumb for a week to ten! We spotted the metal edge that filleted my thumb. funny its really not super sharp, but man it did a number on my thumb. All could be avoided if I had the gloves that were on the machine, ON MY HANDS!!!

Lesson learned!

MP

 

[uffex]

Good day MP
Seems you are making some headway with the machine from your description it appears that the track chain is loose even with the adjuster working, may be it time to remove a track link to get the last part of the life, and may be prevent derailing so often.
Kind regards
Uffex

 

[uffex]

Missing file

 

[KSSS]

I have a TB153 and have had my share of detracking. I can sometimes flip it back on with the bucket and thumb. If your not getting grease out of the tensioner, I take the back of the bucket, elevate the tensioner with the blade and collapse the tensioner with the bucket. The tracks on these in my opinion needs to be run tighter to prevent detracking. It is a job getting those tracks on by yourself. Using your bucket and thumb helps, especially when by yourself.

 

[Mrpush]

I have a TB153 and have had my share of detracking. I can sometimes flip it back on with the bucket and thumb. If your not getting grease out of the tensioner, I take the back of the bucket, elevate the tensioner with the blade and collapse the tensioner with the bucket. The tracks on these in my opinion needs to be run tighter to prevent detracking. It is a job getting those tracks on by yourself. Using your bucket and thumb helps, especially when by yourself.

KSSS, Ok so I would go to the bottom of the spec, which is 3", but it just wont take any more grease. Cylinder must be full and its just over 3.25". Is it possible that these stretch a bit which may prevent me getting it any tighter if tension piston is maxed out?

Thanks,

MP

 

[KSSS]

Are you still running the Bridgestone OEM tracks or have they been replaced? I run my tracks to where they are almost touching the roller on the bottom with the track elevated. If your running them 3" from the bottom of the roller, that in my experience is too loose and would explain the constant detracking. I also put one of the tips on the grease gun that actually clamp on the zerk. I couldn't keep the gun the zerk either without one and actually it works better in almost all situations.

 

[Mrpush]

Hi, ok so manual on tb235 says track distance top inside of track to bottom of frame is "3.0 to 3.4". I'm just over 3.25 now. Other side is 3.375".

Right side that's popping off would not go any tighter. it just won't take any more grease.

MP

 

[KSSS]

are these Bridgestone tracks?

 

[Mrpush]

are these Bridgestone tracks?

Hi, yes they are the OEM Bridgestone tracks. I popped same one off again. Its just odd, i will be just on a mild slope, driving straight as an arrow, tracks running perpendicular to the slope and I hear a funny grind sound, and WHOOP. Its off. I see the other track is "sagging" to the downhill side as the machine weight is "pulling" it down slope some and that must enough to have it come off the front idler on that right side. Never lost the other side.

I wonder if this track is just not damaged, maybe the pads on the inside or something. My Sprockets are in great shape, show very little wear. Both Idlers look good, no uneven wear, all rollers are in perfect shape.

I may do the deed and get new tracks. I will also look at that bowed idler spring and see if I can straighten that out. Its just such a pain in the A$$ when it somes off and you know it happens in the worst spots.

I will pull both off and compare them for wear....maybe when the NEW ones come in? Caching! Ouch!

Hey can you recommend an off brand Track brand that has a good rating? Those Bridgestones are just too much. I'm not using this for my living, its just a farm machine, so I'm not concerned about absolute performance. I just want them to STAY ON!

Thx,

MP

 

[KSSS]

There are steel bands inside the tracks that hold the tension. You may have broken one of those bands and when stressed the rubber expands out over the idler and drops your track off. It sucks. I replaced the tracks on my TB153 with Trojan tracks and I have been happy with the wear. I do a lot of concrete demo and the conditions of course suck and these have held up well. I wouldn't pay for the Bridgestone tracks either. They are twice the money and while they are good tracks I don't see them lasting twice as long as a quality replacement brand.

 

[Mrpush]

KSSS, I will have a look at that brand. I had been looking at some others, like Mclaren, Prowler, Rio, Camso, etc but will have a look at these. Any reason you went them? I know concrete work can wreck tracks quickly with slices and chunks, how many hours do you have on the Trojans?

Thanks for you help, I think you could be right on an internal belt issue. Even a partially broken belt could allow the track to "sag" and jump the idler or sprocket.

Thanks again,

MP

 

[KSSS]

The dealer here uses them, I looked them up, talked with them and thought I would give them a try. I have a few cuts but nothing I wouldn't have expected given the task it serves. There are other good aftermarket brands out there as well. Camso I think is a very good quality brand. I have a 1K on the tracks.

 

[uffex]

Good day
The attached is for steel tracks but the same solution may apply.
kind regards
Uffex