Takeuchi TL 150 fuel solenoid trouble

[GrandpaScott]

I have a first-generation TL-150 with ~2500 hours on it. A while back, I was having trouble getting it started and experiencing low power. A friend of mine ended up hooking up a "pull-wire" to something fuel solenoid related (it works, but I haven't even checked it out under the hood). The fix has been to put tension on the wire, and then when I turn the key to the run position, the wire moves about an inch or two, then I hit start, and it's all good. I tie the wire off, and everything is fine. I thought it was a fuel solenoid issue, but in googling the problem, it seems like it might be relay related. A few other symptoms that lead me to believe that are:

The alternator light flashes, but I don't think I'm losing battery power ever

I have no float on the boom

The above-mentioned reaction when I turn the key

I have been using the workaround for a few years, and even though it only takes about a minute to do, I'm probably losing time having done it a few hundred times instead of spending an hour or two to properly fix the issue. If anyone has any ideas for me, I'd like to face reality and take care of this.

Thanks,
Scott

 

[HarleyHappy]

Sounds like your fuel solenoid arm is sticking or the start coil on it is burned out.

 

[heymccall]

First, I need a picture of the "override" setup.
The fuel stop rod is concealed under the solenoid.

 

[Vetech63]

I can't hardly wait to see a pic of this set up lol

 

[HarleyHappy]

My advice, if it’s been working like this for that long, keep it up.
lol

 

[GrandpaScott]

OK, I'll see about getting a picture of the override (a picture is worth a thousand words) and continue the conversation. I am a good operator, but didn't exercise any of my limited mechanical abilities on this. HarleyHappy, I have been working with your advice for quite some time, but as I said, I've certainly spent more cumulative time with the workaround than a repair would have taken, and may well continue that process . I am a work-alone, sole proprietor with a heavy workload, so sometimes it's better to focus on my clients, but the older I get, the more I'm realizing that taking a little "me time" keeps my attitude better and doesn't really affect the insurmountable task of getting everyone else's jobs done. I get to the end of the work season every year, and these just roll over to next year.
I appreciate you guys weighing in on this and will do my best to follow up in the next month or so as my season winds down (northern Minnesota septic system installer). I will be snowbirding in early November, so this may run out to next spring, but if I do find a little "spare time," I'll get after it.

 

[thepumpguysc]

I would like to see a picture also.. some/most solenoids are adjustable..
If it’s the one I’m thinking of, there’s 2 10mm nuts that u loosen and adjust the “throw”..

 

[heymccall]

This is the stop solenoid. Plunger is hidden when mounted, and is non adjustable.

 

[thepumpguysc]

Thanks..
U r correct.. non adjustable..

 

[GrandpaScott]

The machine is on another project, but I will be getting there next week and will take a minute to get picture(s)

 

[heymccall]

I never met a TL150 that didn't need the two "triple" relays resoldered, ever. Every one here had that issue. And, if i simply replaced the relay, it would need resoldered within 3 years.
The symptoms always varied, sometimes shutoff when driving, sometimes idiot lights, sometimes a no start, sometimes no hydraulics ...always different depending on which of the 6 relays had the worst cold solder joint.

 

[GrandpaScott]

Yep, I've come across this theory on a couple of searches. I was thinking about just ordering the entire bank of relays and replacing them. I also saw something about a relay tester that I might look into.

 

[heymccall]

Never failed any relays on my TL150s except the BE31-107 "triple" relays and they're not really testable. Buying all of the others would be, well, ridiculous, and prove nothing.

If you know how to use a soldering iron, take the two units apart and inspect them. I won't cost a dime.

 

[Simon C]

Never failed any relays on my TL150s except the BE31-107 "triple" relays and they're not really testable. Buying all of the others would be, well, ridiculous, and prove nothing.

If you know how to use a soldering iron, take the two units apart and inspect them. I won't cost a dime.

Probably fixed better than new, at Zero cost.
Simon C

 

[GrandpaScott]

Never failed any relays on my TL150s except the BE31-107 "triple" relays and they're not really testable. Buying all of the others would be, well, ridiculous, and prove nothing.

If you know how to use a soldering iron, take the two units apart and inspect them. I won't cost a dime.

I've got a soldering iron in the garage and have used it with success in the past. Probably worth a shot. Thanks for the encouragement!

 

[GrandpaScott]

These pictures are about mid to back engine on the operator's left side of the machine. The wire pulls to the front of the machine. I'm thinking that my friend probably had to remove the air filter setup to get to the area. I will look into the BE31-107 theory and see if that pans out.

 

[heymccall]

Wow. I'm sorry for showing the wrong stop solenoid. I keep mixing up my takeuchi .

 

[GrandpaScott]

I just looked at my owners manual and came up with this page. I see one relay that I probably have to replace - "I" - heater-horn-float, as I don't have horn or float and that's 3 items so if that relates to the "triple" description, you're probably on to something. Would that be related to the fuel system issue that I'm having?

 

[GrandpaScott]

Wow. I'm sorry for showing the wrong stop solenoid. I keep mixing up my takeuchi .

View attachment 349014

So, looking at this picture, I can see where the wire pulls. I'm trying to figure out if it's the solenoid, which, when I turn the key to the run position, allows that wire to move the inch that I mentioned (absolutely cannot pull the wire, but when in run position it pulls about as easy as peeling a banana, for reference ) and appears to allow the fuel circuit to activate, or if it's a relay not telling the solenoid to do its job.

 

[HarleyHappy]

Well if turning the key only, allows it to move, then more than likely it’s the solenoid pull in coil and not the relay.