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TD20, d7g, d6m n r, d8h, 750/850 deer. Thoughts and suggestions?

D5Dan

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 29, 2021
Messages
156
Location
Oxford, Maine
Great machine and even better pics- luv that Georgia red clay!! Thanks for posting, definitely enjoy seeing that machine…there’s one down the road from me; not sure my neighbor is willing to sell it, but nice to know what it can do!!
 

Georgia Iron

Senior Member
Joined
May 6, 2012
Messages
1,319
Location
USA - Georgia
Occupation
Concrete building slab and grading contractor
Looks good. I'd love to have some equipment like that, transporting it is the problem around here. With some grades exceeding 20%, most of the guys with a 963 are hauling them with a semi. 953 is a good load for a stout tandem in these parts, even so there are a few steep stop signs you try to avoid. Had a chance to buy a 977L a while back for a good price, but at 48,000lbs transporting it would be a major issue. It was stout though, I got to run it on a land clearing job and it would take out a 30" pine stump in two passes.
Kind of a funny, i bought my first 953 with no way to move it. Got my first job down the road by driving it threw the woods to a neighbors house.

I have everything I need to move this 963 but still could not. Trailer needed tires and the dump truck needed a 7 way added to the back for this trailer. No time to even get tires so I paid to bring it back to the shop. I paid to have my 953 brought to me also so many years ago.

My 953 is too small for the current clearing job, I needed something that can put out more, so I decided to get a 963. As jobs keep piling up I want the tools that will save me the most time. I am booked up the rest of the year with work. I am not able to keep up anymore. Even with a little help here and there work has become a gaint gorilla on my back and I can't get it off.

I am in the process of completing 4 contracts, and I have stopped taking any new work. I have stopped answering the phone and looking at new work. I am working towards a clean state with no work, I need to disappear for 2 or 4 months to recoup. I am working threw the holiday including Sunday to try and get some jobs out of the way.

I am sure you guys have felt the same way. I often wonder what is the point of working for months on end just to go get another machine so a different machine can sit. Maybe it is better to just have one really good tractor and truck and not chase everything. But the chasing everything has led to so much work that now I can't breath. Anyway..

I am in the process of building clearing guards for the 963 they are turning out sweet. I just rebuilt both lift cylinders and dropped all the pans to inspect and clean the belly. This tractor is a 90s models and the seals were completely gone when I pulled the cylinders apart. If you buy older equipment get ready you will need to work on it. I have put 100 hours into this in early mornings, Sundays, after work etc. PIA.

20250627_151801.jpg

20250627_151755.jpg
20250627_151833.jpg

The 963 is better designed than the 953. More room and hoses and what not seem to have better access.

$600 for the seals. I don't really know how it was not spraying fluid out the ends the internal seals were just disintegrated...
 
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Georgia Iron

Senior Member
Joined
May 6, 2012
Messages
1,319
Location
USA - Georgia
Occupation
Concrete building slab and grading contractor
Here are some photos of my clearing screens. Still in the process of doing it.

20250628_120817.jpg

20250629_112417.jpg

20250630_105251.jpg

20250628_103913.jpg


I just used some steel i had laying around 1/2 rebar. Everything welded. Seems strong enough i believe it will keep a tree top from falling into the front of the machine. Or slapping me in the face.

Now I am making doors and side screens and then finally some (rear sweeps) pieces to make limbs slide over the air cleaner and rear exhaust. I put up in another thread about getting popped 3 different times on the 953 on this clearing job. It hurt bad enough that I decided clearing without protection just is not worth it. I am lucky my head did not get crushed by a 6" oak limb. Never again.
 
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Georgia Iron

Senior Member
Joined
May 6, 2012
Messages
1,319
Location
USA - Georgia
Occupation
Concrete building slab and grading contractor
Here are a few pictures of the some of the mess I am working with.

20250618_173558_exported_1751509666312.jpg


20250618_172901_exported_1751509577477.jpg


It is hard to put it into a picture. The amount of damage and debris is a lot. I am basically just trying to open some 50' wide firebreaks so it can be burned. I need to clear several miles worth and try to push up whatever I can. Stumps everywhere.
 

chidog

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 21, 2021
Messages
1,509
Location
wa
Looks like easy clearing to me. I'd like to be back in it again, with my own machine though.
 

Georgia Iron

Senior Member
Joined
May 6, 2012
Messages
1,319
Location
USA - Georgia
Occupation
Concrete building slab and grading contractor
Looks like easy clearing to me. I'd like to be back in it again, with my own machine though.
20250616_192951_exported_1751518952347.jpg20250618_172624_exported_1751519014534.jpg

Where is your machine?


This area is mostly dry and flat. Other areas are sloped with 10 or 15 trees stacked ontop of one another. Some trees are 40" in diameter. 100 year old trees. Some are just snapped off and some have root balls sticking up 10'. I have pushed the road previously in one of the above photos logs line each side of the road.

Not 100 feet from this picture my TL150 went to the belly stuck working on this road. Not sure how the 63 will do.

I have been stopping and cutting out good logs to take to my saw mill. I am now about to stop and only go after the white oak. Bugs are already in the pine logs and 4 different big oaks did not produce good boards... a lot of work for so so wood. The biggest and best trees are the cypress down jn the swamps. I don't think i will get to recover much of it. Can't even walk threw it and it is deep black mud with up rooted trees everywhere. Nature will have to take care of it.
 
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Georgia Iron

Senior Member
Joined
May 6, 2012
Messages
1,319
Location
USA - Georgia
Occupation
Concrete building slab and grading contractor
I was not able to get a good finish. The 1/2 bar was 30"s long so I worked it from each side so 15" bar. It was flexing a lot and I had to dial the middle in probably 1500 more than the ends. The ends did fine but i had to wittle away at center over and over. My skills are not so great.... anyone got more experience at machineing.

20250703_110710.jpg
 

materthegreater

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 25, 2012
Messages
2,108
Location
VT
I was not able to get a good finish. The 1/2 bar was 30"s long so I worked it from each side so 15" bar. It was flexing a lot and I had to dial the middle in probably 1500 more than the ends. The ends did fine but i had to wittle away at center over and over. My skills are not so great.... anyone got more experience at machineing.

View attachment 343896
Does your lathe have a center rest or a follower rest? Looks like the cutter could use sharpening or adjustment also.
 

Georgia Iron

Senior Member
Joined
May 6, 2012
Messages
1,319
Location
USA - Georgia
Occupation
Concrete building slab and grading contractor
Looks like you are using a cutoff tool instead of a turning tool? Been awhile since I've done much machining though.
Yes I was using a cut off tool. It had a new edge, but the bar was still flexing. Worked great close to the Chuck and the tail stock. I have seen others on YouTube use it that way. Is that an issue?
 

JS430

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Joined
Feb 28, 2024
Messages
95
Location
Texas
Yes I was using a cut off tool. It had a new edge, but the bar was still flexing. Worked great close to the Chuck and the tail stock. I have seen others on YouTube use it that way. Is that an issue?
If you could come up with a single point turning cutter things would be smoother. I completely understand using what you have though. I came up on this thread today and enjoyed the read. The 850B seemed to fall off though. How is it running?
 

Georgia Iron

Senior Member
Joined
May 6, 2012
Messages
1,319
Location
USA - Georgia
Occupation
Concrete building slab and grading contractor
If you could come up with a single point turning cutter things would be smoother. I completely understand using what you have though. I came up on this thread today and enjoyed the read. The 850B seemed to fall off though. How is it running?
I have a few single point cutters. I used the parting tool because it was setup and ready. Now I am curious if the single point will do better.

The 850 got parked and it is going to be a winter project maybe spring. I have too many stumps for it and the 63 should work them up faster.
 

JS430

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 28, 2024
Messages
95
Location
Texas
I got started on this thread because of the TD20 in the title. C&C Equipment in Indiana has one for sale and the rebuild videos they did on it were really interesting...if you like Equipment videos. Lol
 

chidog

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 21, 2021
Messages
1,509
Location
wa
I was not able to get a good finish. The 1/2 bar was 30"s long so I worked it from each side so 15" bar. It was flexing a lot and I had to dial the middle in probably 1500 more than the ends. The ends did fine but i had to wittle away at center over and over. My skills are not so great.... anyone got more experience at machineing.

View attachment 343896
Yeah for long parts like that you need a follow rest, the flexing can cause that finish, as well as the tool.
What sort of tool? And rpm? And problem with a lathe sometimes doing a proper rpm is a dangerous deal. With a follow rest and decent carbide tool and proper feed you would get a better finish.
I'd do that half bar deal as well, that was a smart move. You do have the tool point on center?
Just reread and ....
Do not use a parting tool as the cutter, it is too much pressure on the surface, you need something with maybe a .02 to .03 radius on the tip, with mild steel part, then high speed cutter is fine. The tip radius will help give a better finish, and take very light cuts. Get the feel for it.

Also number 1 rule, always keep the cutting tool as short as possible and as close to the holder as well.
The key thing in machining is the set up and machine need to be as solid as can be.
Make sure the carriage, cross slide etc has no gib play. And spindle as well.

If you don't have a follow rest, only stick maybe 4 inches at a time out of the chuck still using the center, once you get the 15 inches flip and go on the other side. Then could save for a final longer finish cut or just leave it ?

Yes do 4 inches then move it out 4 more inches etc, and is easy to blend the cut that way too. Use a felt pen to mark and lightly touch it to blend with previous cut.
 
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Georgia Iron

Senior Member
Joined
May 6, 2012
Messages
1,319
Location
USA - Georgia
Occupation
Concrete building slab and grading contractor
Yeah for long parts like that you need a follow rest, the flexing can cause that finish, as well as the tool.
What sort of tool? And rpm? And problem with a lathe sometimes doing a proper rpm is a dangerous deal. With a follow rest and decent carbide tool and proper feed you would get a better finish.
I'd do that half bar deal as well, that was a smart move. You do have the tool point on center?
Just reread and ....
Do not use a parting tool as the cutter, it is too much pressure on the surface, you need something with maybe a .02 to .03 radius on the tip, with mild steel part, then high speed cutter is fine. The tip radius will help give a better finish, and take very light cuts. Get the feel for it.

Also number 1 rule, always keep the cutting tool as short as possible and as close to the holder as well.
The key thing in machining is the set up and machine need to be as solid as can be.
Make sure the carriage, cross slide etc has no gib play. And spindle as well.

If you don't have a follow rest, only stick maybe 4 inches at a time out of the chuck still using the center, once you get the 15 inches flip and go on the other side. Then could save for a final longer finish cut or just leave it ?

Yes do 4 inches then move it out 4 more inches etc, and is easy to blend the cut that way too. Use a felt pen to mark and lightly touch it to blend with previous cut.
Sounds like some good advice. I will give it another shot, how you suggested and see what it does.
 
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