That first oil filter change..

[RobVG]

Seems like every new machine we get, they've tightened the oil filter at the factory with something other than a hand. Such was the case with our new ZX 160LC. Usually a chain wrench does the trick but not this time. The problem was, they are apparently making their filters out of cheese. It twisted up into an hour glass. Had to remove the head and put it in a vise and get the chain wrench on the rim of the filter next to the head. How was your day?.....

 

[Junkyard]

We’ve got one guy who helps us with PM’s. He must be half gorilla. I have the same problems coming behind him! I don’t get it. I do hand tight and a quarter turn with strap wrench.

 

[RobVG]

Never lost one hand tight only

 

[92U 3406]

I did the first service on a new CP54B last week. Of course you can barely get a filter wrench on the thing and some goon has cranked it on to about 500ft-lbs. Worst 30 minutes of my day.

 

[Birken Vogt]

Hand tight here too, my hands are not real strong either. I had one leak once about 20 years ago and all I had to do was turn it tighter but I always check with the engine running before turning it loose but I have never had another one leak like that.

 

[Junkyard]

Something about drill rigs will rattle stuff loose that normally doesn’t come loose. Harmonics or who knows what. A 1/4 turn won’t hurt anything and it’s a quick 1/4 turn with a strap to break them loose at the next service.

 

[kshansen]

Something about drill rigs will rattle stuff loose that normally doesn’t come loose. Harmonics or who knows what. A 1/4 turn won’t hurt anything and it’s a quick 1/4 turn with a strap to break them loose at the next service.

I too have had the "pleasure" of trying to remove "factory gorilla" installed filters!
Most filters have instructions on them and if followed 99.99% of the time they never leak and come off easy.

One exception to the easy-off filters were the small hydraulic filters on the 769D Truck we had at the quarry. The instructions as I recall on the filter were turn till it touched the head then 1/10 turn more! Not exactly in a position where you could easily see 1/10 of a turn but I tried to do the best I could. Problem was these small high pressure filters many times would lock on the threads and the canister would actually slip around while the threaded end stayed put! The solution was a very careful application of an air chisel just below the filter head to break the threaded part loose. Just a short brapp and it would screw off by hand.

Now for the strangest filter install instructions I have ever seen was the instructions for the canister hydraulic filter on the 980K Cat loader!

Just so you don't think I've been smoking something below is the print out from Cat, the bolding in the last sentence is Cat's not mine!

Yes, they say to leave it 1/4 turn loose on that canister #5 in the picture! Loader had over 4,000 hours on it when I retired and never lost a filter or had one leak!

 

[RobVG]

Air chisel. Brilliant! I'll give it a try next time.

 

[DMiller]

Been that air chisel route YEARS ago on Euclid machines where the spin on changeover craze hit on the old canister filters. Guys at then Western Diesel evidently had a four foot cheater pipe when they spun down the filters, we used a air chisel to remove many of the first installs as the base plates of the spin on filters were wedged on so tight. Got the cans to crush, tried the screwdriver thru the outside skins into the media but would just shred. PITA even back then and I am talking thirty years ago.

 

[Junkyard]

Air chisel. Brilliant! I'll give it a try next time.

You’d be amazed all the things an air hammer will do. Rattle things apart, break stubborn glands loose, large hydraulic fittings you can’t get a big wrench on. I even have a 1/2” drive bit for mine so I can rattle, hammer and turn a fastener.

 

[RobVG]

Going off topic a little but I've used Willy's trick of using a hammer to loosen hyd fittings a few times now.

 

[hosspuller]

My theory of factory filters is the lack of an oil film. Most filter instructions say coat the rubber seal with oil. Even if one doesn't, the housing is dripping with oil.

I believe the factory puts them on dry. Assembly line Guy takes filter from parts bin, screws it onto new, clean, and dry housing and you get to fight it off.

 

[RZucker]

What he said^^. And add some possibly "green" paint to help glue them on.
Bought a new Chevy pickup in 1982, completely tore the can off on the first oil change. Used pin spanner wrench to get the base off.

 

[Nige]

I just had a wander into the shop and took a look at quite a few Cat filters. All the instructions were the same: -

Lubricate the seal with the same fluid that is in the system.
Spin the filter on until the seal contacts the base.
Tighten the filter and additional amount as directed by the instructions on the outside of the filter can.

It seemed to be that the instructions on everything spin-on engine oil/secondary fuel/hydraulic was +1 turn apart from primary fuel filter/water separator elements that were 1/2 turn - YMMV but I can well remember a number of years ago instances of 3500 engine oil filters loosening because the recommendation changed from +1/2 turn to +1 turn after a change in design of the filter.

 

[DMiller]

Still remember a few filter lines that upon engine or hydraulics start up would blow the can and a Quantity of fluid into the floor. I will NOT EVER install a Fram on my equipment. Are a few others as bad for the same, no name store brands are usually same manufacturers.

 

[Nige]

+1 - I hate Fram filters with a passion, closely followed by Fleetguard which I also think are sh1te ......

 

[DMiller]

I have a few conditional uses for Fleetguard, mainly for those engines that require them for a warranty, friend of mine still works a lot of Cummins where the Warranty is affixed to the filter line. Can honestly state have not installed one for close to five years.

 

[Birken Vogt]

I remember seeing a publication saying never ever dent or gouge a filter can when installing. And if you do then throw it away.

I believe it, too, seeing the pressure they run at and how thin the metal is.

So I will not use tools to install. With one exception, if absolutely necessary filter pliers around the rim which is not the same metal as the can.

Interesting about Fleetguard, I thought they were top of the line for aftermarket? I used to use them extensively in the past but that was 10-15 years ago. We are on Donaldson now because the vendor is good to us. But I have seen a change in Donaldson over the past 6 months where they have gone from the fancy o-ring gasket to a square gasket that reminds me of Wix. Everything else has changed also such as threaded plate, country of manufacture, outward appearance, etc. Still some difference from Wix though, don't know what to think.

 

[DMiller]

WIX went south around 12 years ago first in light applications then the cheapening out moved on to larger groups. They supply a number of the Off Name brand filters sold as does Fram. At one time used AC by GM almost expressly with few issues, have NOT seen one in a coon's age, not even sure if offered as a full line any more.

Really satisfied with the Baldwin products I use.

 

[kshansen]

Air chisel. Brilliant! I'll give it a try next time.

The filters I was using the air chisel on had the outer shell crimped over on the heavy cast aluminum end with the threads in it. The shell would just slip when you tried to unscrew the filters. The air chisle would let the impact put a small notch in the inner end cap and turn it just a couple degrees then it would turn off by hand.

I would say about 2/3's of the time I did not need the air assist but every so often I did. Can't blame anyone too much as 99% of the time I did all the service work on the equipment in the quarry.