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The old closing kerf question.

RobVG

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Sometimes I have a problem with it. I've tried different settings, cutting speed etc.

What's the definitive answer?
 

ETER

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Rob, I have a #5 tip on the oxy/accet and does well from 1/4" through 1"...the cut does tend to close on 3/16" and thinner (too much heat, to little steel?).
Regards, Bob
 

lantraxco

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I would agree, it seems customary to use one cutting tip for all occasions, from auto sheet to 2" and rosebud duty. I tend to use an 0 tip most of the time because it works well up to about 1/2 and I hate paying for gas every week.
 

RobVG

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Yair . . . .

RobVG, Could you elaborate a little mate? I don't quite understand the problem.

Cheers.

C'mon Scrubby, everyone else knew ;)

#2 seems to work well for most things. I "still" have an occasional problem but turning down the heat helps.
I guess #2 it's to much for the thinner stuff.
 

Williams Marine

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I use 0 tip for 3/4 inch, gives a nice thin cut, great for cuts that are not just a straight line. In the marine industry not much is straight or at 90 degrees.
 

StanRUS

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lantraxco

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Oh, and did I mention gas? Look up the manufacturer's recommendations on pressure settings, almost everybody uses WAY too much oxygen pressure, it's detrimental to clean cutting and the stuff is not cheap anymore. I'm not a tightwad, just hate waste and fighting gas bottles. Keep the tip clean and the flame properly formed, 20 psi generally will be plenty for anything 1/2" and under.
 

Scrub Puller

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Yair . . . .

Oh! That problem RobVG. . . I didn't know it had a name. (big grin)

The definitive answer as others have mentioned is everything must be right.

It appears the US uses a different tip numbering system to us but different tips are made for different thickness metal. Some overlap of course is possible by adjusting flame and travel speed . . . . fuel and oxy pressures on conventional equipment must be right and, for perfect cuts the steel should clean on both sides.

I haven't used conventional equipment for many years and have a different type that is pretty fiddly and uses very low acetylene pressure. It cuts like a plasma if you persevere though.

With any system the travel speed should be such that the preheat does not melt the edge of the cut and the cut edges should always have the pattern ninety degrees to the face . . . if the flow appears to curve back the travel is too fast or oxy pressure low.

The only variation to this is when cutting thin (say) 1/8" it can be cut very clean by resting the edge of the tip on the plate freehand and cutting with the handpiece lent at an extreme angle say 25 or 30 degrees from horizontal and increasing travel speed . . . it makes the tip think it's cutting thicker plate.

Properly done, cutting say 1/4" and 3/8" plate for boat hulls with by hand with guide wheels the scribe line should remain visible and the plate should need only a touch with the grinder to make it fit.

Cheers.
 

ETER

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Scribed line should remain visible? Sometimes I wonder why I waste my time penciling a line...I should be using sidewalk chalk.
Regards, Bob
 

lantraxco

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Scrub, Do you use one of those torches with the second preheat tip? They sell them at fairs and trade shows here, with a magician demonstrating how to cut and weld with them....
 

td25c

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Yair . . . .

Oh! That problem RobVG. . . I didn't know it had a name. (big grin)


With any system the travel speed should be such that the preheat does not melt the edge of the cut and the cut edges should always have the pattern ninety degrees to the face . . . if the flow appears to curve back the travel is too fast or oxy pressure low.

The only variation to this is when cutting thin (say) 1/8" it can be cut very clean by resting the edge of the tip on the plate freehand and cutting with the handpiece lent at an extreme angle say 25 or 30 degrees from horizontal and increasing travel speed . . . it makes the tip think it's cutting thicker plate.

Properly done, cutting say 1/4" and 3/8" plate for boat hulls with by hand with guide wheels the scribe line should remain visible and the plate should need only a touch with the grinder to make it fit.

Cheers.

Spot on mate !

Travel speed & torch angle play a big part in it .

Out of habit I cut with a lead angle up to one inch thick . Like you say 1/8 inch & under torch angle damn near flat & fast cutting speed . Makes a for a clean cut without any slag .:yup

Normally just mark cuts with soapstone / chalk line . On more intricate cuts I will center punch every 1/4 inch or so just to help stay on the line .
 
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willie59

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Lot of good advice here. I'm with scrub, if you're cutting sheet metal, lay the tip at an extreme angle in the direction you're cutting. On thick metal, if you desire little slag in the cut (metal melting behind the torch head and filling the cut, of course gas/oxy pressure is important, and the thickness of the material has a lot to do with those settings, but I've found it helps to have the oxy backed off just a bit. In other words, for a good hot flame I typically turn on the gas and light up and adjust to the flame length (pressure) I desire, then turn on the oxy until I get a nice deep sky blue flame. But if I want to control slag in the cut, I back off the oxy just a bit from sky blue to more of a turquoise blue flame. At this setting it takes a little longer to preheat to begin the cut, but once it starts it makes a nice cut with reduced slag because the heat isn't melting the surrounding metal near as bad. I hope this makes sense.
 

Scrub Puller

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Yair . . .

Yes lantraxco. One of those pistol grip thingy's . . . they have been around for years under various names. I bought mine originally for art work as they will cut thin plate like plasma when making silhouettes . . . I sorta got hooked on it.

They use a lot less gas to do any given job . . .acetylene has a special gauge that runs @4PSI.

Too fiddley for general purpose but wonderful for panel and radiator work.

ETER . . .
Scribed line should remain visible? Sometimes I wonder why I waste my time penciling a line...I should be using sidewalk chalk.
Regards, Bob

I don't quite get what you are saying but a properly scribed line is very easy to see and yes a well cut plate will show the scribe line as witness all along the cut.

For a suitable scriber for doing precise fit up plates I used to chuck up a piece of (say) 1/4"stainless round bar poke a 2.5 mm hole up it and then tap in a piece of TIG tungsten. . . the whole thing was then sharpened like a pencil on the grinder.

The freshly tungsten scribed line sort of shines in the front of the flame and is very easy to follow . . . the proviso being to seeing the witness is that the travel speed and flame have to be pretty right so there is an absolutely square cut and no erosion of the edge.

Cheers.
 
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StanRUS

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Yair . . .
They use a lot less gas to do any given job . . .acetylene has a special gauge that runs @4PSI.
Cheers.
Koike cut tips (oxy-ac) use low psi ac 2.8psi 1/4” to 1 1/2” oxy 30 to 45 psi
One of my favorite toys; Koike Handy Auto motorized hand torch https://youtu.be/lFVr-TRi-4Q

For a suitable scriber for doing precise fit up plates I used to chuck up a piece of (say) 1/4"stainless round bar poke a 2.5 mm hole up it and then tap in a piece of TIG tungsten

Available in the US as standard layout scribe, extra new tungsten points are stored in the circular hollow handle.

Oxy-AC cutting thin gauge sheet steel, Victor makes a tip for that purpose, resembles a gouging tip.

Leaving soup-stone layout lines: Journeymen fitters use the line width for cutting allowance, centering the Oxy orifice dead center on the line; expressed as take-the-line.

If you carry cutting tips wrapped in rubberized protectors that prevented burnishing (wear) the tapered seats and cut tip orifices, even the plastic holders from the OEMs cause wear while carrying around in service trucks.

Thank for sharing your knowledge guys
 

repowerguy

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If you carry cutting tips wrapped in rubberized protectors that prevented burnishing (wear) the tapered seats and cut tip orifices, even the plastic holders from the OEMs cause wear while carrying around in service trucks. guys[/QUOTE]

I have started using American torch tips on my cutting outfits. Once you install the adapter, tip changes take a few seconds and there is no seat to get beat up rattling around in a truck. The best thing is, it's so easy to change tips, I'm inclined to use the right size for the steel thickness. I also found that a rosebud tip uses the same adapter so I often use it where before I would have just used the cutting tip and waited.
 

lantraxco

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Had to look up American, love it. Great system AND I may get to use a couple of older straight torches I have had trouble getting tips for....
 

ETER

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Scrub, here is a pic of some of the "scribing" instruments found in the shop where the hand-held torching operations are conducted (side-walk chalk being on the far right). My point was that I have not yet come to terms that my glasses would probably help around the shop as well as they help me to read the "captions" on TV:drinkup
DSC05418.jpg
 
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