Tow behind padfoot/sheepsfoot compactor

[Nige]

Is the Serial Number prefix of the one in the photos 43N.? Do you have a full Serial Number perchance.?
The 825B shares the same 3-speed powershift transmission as the 36H-prefix 824B Wheel Dozer so parts shouldn't be a problem. I'd imagine a lot of internal parts such as clutch discs, plates, seals, bearings, etc, are also common with a wide range of other models apart from the 824B

There are literally thousands of D343 engines still around and I am not aware of any major issues with parts availability, either OEM or aftermarket. Hopefully others can confirm that.

 

[ippielb]

Is the Serial Number prefix of the one in the photos 43N.? Do you have a full Serial Number perchance.?
The 825B shares the same 3-speed powershift transmission as the 36H-prefix 824B Wheel Dozer so parts shouldn't be a problem. I'd imagine a lot of internal parts such as clutch discs, plates, seals, bearings, etc, are also common with a wide range of other models apart from the 824B

There are literally thousands of D343 engines still around and I am not aware of any major issues with parts availability, either OEM or aftermarket. Hopefully others can confirm that.

View attachment 270623

I don’t have the serial number off the machine. I sent them a message right now asking for it.

is the transmission a divorced arrangement with a prop shaft or is it bolted to the flex plate?

what would you expect a transmission rebuild would run roughly these days? Just parts. If they’re as simple as you say I could probably tear it out and see myself.

 

[Nige]

is the transmission a divorced arrangement with a prop shaft

Yes. It's not really a shaft per se, just a double u-jpint setup. LH side is TC output, RH is transmission input.

what would you expect a transmission rebuild would run roughly these days? Just parts. If they’re as simple as you say I could probably tear it out and see myself.

Sorry no idea on cost but with the resources and facilities you have available to you I have every confidence that you could do it yourself. Attached SysOp for the Power Train.

 

[ippielb]

Yes. It's not really a shaft per se, just a double u-jpint setup. LH side is TC output, RH is transmission input.

View attachment 270630
Sorry no idea on cost but with the resources and facilities you have available to you I have every confidence that you could do it yourself. Attached SysOp for the Power Train.

Ah yes, I have the same style coupler that hooks the transmission to the engine on my Allis Chalmers M-100 grader. Which the splines are right worn out.

I’ll be picking the brain of the owner to see what he conditions it had before it was parked.

thanks again for your knowledge.

 

[Nige]

Just because he says the transmission doesn’t work it could be a bad pump or a hundred other things. It’d have to be properly diagnosed first. However nothing in that powertrain is complicated. For a start there are no electronics involved.

 

[ippielb]

Just because he says the transmission doesn’t work it could be a bad pump or a hundred other things. It’d have to be properly diagnosed first. However nothing in that powertrain is complicated. For a start there are no electronics involved.

So just got word, the person operating the machine said the transmission slipped a couple times. Then went into neutral for good.

 

[Nige]

So just got word, the person operating the machine said the transmission slipped a couple times. Then went into neutral for good.

Loss of pressure somewhere by the sound of it. It would need diagnosing properly to find the culprit. $64k question is how much time are you willing to invest in the diagnosis.?

 

[ippielb]

Loss of pressure somewhere by the sound of it. It would need diagnosing properly to find the culprit. $64k question is how much time are you willing to invest in the diagnosis.?

Not as much as it would need. So I’ve shied away from it. Plus I don’t have the money to invest into fixing and maintaining that machine at the moment. My packer is almost done and it’s going to be usable. My buddy is going to be cutting my steel tonight for the end plates gussets etc.

But we had a blizzard for the last two days now. 10-12” of snow and rain. Icy roads. So I never got a quote on the bolts I wanted to. But guy was guessing 2-1/4” bolts 12” long would be $180 a piece. And the kicker… the nut would be $12. So $8XX and change for the bolts and nuts. machine shop quoted me $1100.

 

[Welder Dave]

Could you use round bar with flanges and several smaller bolts or thread solid bar internally and use bolts like some Cat hydraulic cylinders have? Could probably have external threads machined on solid bar too for a big nut. If you could find some old hydraulic cylinder rods, you could weld a plate on the end with a bolt hole for holding it in place like a pin on a machine. The 1 other idea is having both ends threaded for a big nut or internally threaded for bolts. $180/bolt does seem a little high. Do the bolts need to be 2 1/4 inches?

 

[ippielb]

Could you use round bar with flanges and several smaller bolts or thread solid bar internally and use bolts like some Cat hydraulic cylinders have? Could probably have external threads machined on solid bar too for a big nut. If you could find some old hydraulic cylinder rods, you could weld a plate on the end with a bolt hole for holding it in place like a pin on a machine. The 1 other idea is having both ends threaded for a big nut or internally threaded for bolts. $180/bolt does seem a little high. Do the bolts need to be 2 1/4 inches?

My thought is that if that packer gets dropped in the mud, potentially stuck. All that weight is being pulled by the front pivot pin. The thicker diameter the bolt is, the more material it will have as the bolt wears down from pivoting. Continuing to give the strength over the years. I watched the hydraulic press channel and seen how strong the bolts are at this diameter and it gives me the utmost confidence that it will not fail. I would be comfortable with 2" diameter bolts as well. I can get heavy walled tubing with the inside diameter of both easily.

What im going to do is cut out a hex shape out of 1/2" steel that the bolt will have, and weld it to the back side of the wheel frame to prevent the bolt from spinning in the frame. That way the bolt is untouched, easily removeable and replaceable in the field.

I'm not just making this so that, i can take it easy on it and last for ever. I'm planning on renting it out and have to accommodate people who will trash and not care for it at all, and then hopefully last for a good amount of time. Over engineer with sheer strength and size, for my lack of actual engineering.

 

[DB2]

Just as a curiosity would the wheeled packer have the same neutralizer on the left hand brake pedal as the corresponding wheel loader ?

 

[ippielb]

Got my steel cut out. Four half inch plates for the hubs of the packer wheels. Eight 3/8” swivel plates for the pivot pins. Sixteen 3/8” gussets to support the axle. Then 1/2” bearing support plates that will reinforce where the bearings are on the frame, to help prevent the pillow block from trying to rotate and distort the frame.

oh and a 4” box end wrench that I’ll weld a bar onto so I can try and break free the axle nuts on my rome breaking disc hangs.


More snow too, melted yesterday, this morning had more.

 

[John Shipp]

Good progress on the cut steel. You're more than half way there

 

[ippielb]

Also ordered four 2” bolts and nuts. $146 a bolt, $14 a nut. Two weeks out. Should have the welding done by then. Only thing left I need to buy is some thick walled pipe for bushings in the frame for pivot bolts.

 

[John Shipp]

Also ordered four 2” bolts and nuts. $146 a bolt, $14 a nut. Two weeks out. Should have the welding done by then. Only thing left I need to buy is some thick walled pipe for bushings in the frame for pivot bolts.

How's it going with the welding?

 

[ippielb]

How's it going with the welding?

As you can see, exactly where it was last I left it. I got busy land clearing, did 50 acres almost this fall early winter, and in the mean time it got extremely cold since I got back. Had a week and a half there of -20 or colder. With close to -40 windchills. So I’ve been in my shop working on my snowmobile getting it ready for the season. Then I need to do some work to my truck. But after that I’m going to take my hoe and try and walk the wheels one at a time into my shop through the door so I can weld them. That way I can use solid wire instead of flux core.

 

[colson04]

View attachment 274763

As you can see, exactly where it was last I left it. I got busy land clearing, did 50 acres almost this fall early winter, and in the mean time it got extremely cold since I got back. Had a week and a half there of -20 or colder. With close to -40 windchills. So I’ve been in my shop working on my snowmobile getting it ready for the season. Then I need to do some work to my truck. But after that I’m going to take my hoe and try and walk the wheels one at a time into my shop through the door so I can weld them. That way I can use solid wire instead of flux core.
View attachment 274764

What's the scoop on the sled? I had a hot rod Arctic Cat about years ago. D&D big bore, clutched, piped, stripped every extra pound off I could, etc. I could pass anything but a gas station. I ran it for about four years. After three rebuilds and a near death experience, I gave up chasing that high as I just didn't have the funds to support the habit. She was a rush though.

 

[ippielb]

What's the scoop on the sled? I had a hot rod Arctic Cat about years ago. D&D big bore, clutched, piped, stripped every extra pound off I could, etc. I could pass anything but a gas station. I ran it for about four years. After three rebuilds and a near death experience, I gave up chasing that high as I just didn't have the funds to support the habit. She was a rush though.

I have a f7 engine with a d&d big bore, rktek head, speedwerx lightened crankshaft i built for a drag sled. Lost interest once i went to the mountains

That sled is a 2019 arctic cat alpha one, I have a bunch of lightweight parts on it. Jaws pipe set up. ECU flash. Just powdercoated the suspension which is that neon green in pictures.

 

[ippielb]

 

[Welder Dave]

Looks like you could maybe have used a little more voltage to flatten your welds out a bit but looks pretty good.