Kind of disappointed in the tree pushing ability of the 953C. I end up having to make too big a hole to get the roots snapped off so I can get it over and it's taking too much time. Would a ripper do any better at snapping off the big roots or would it not be worth the expense to get one? I'm new with this machine and need practice in my technique--I suspect. White oak has been the worse. Thanks, LB
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Tree pushing with 953C
- Thread starter LeakyBoot
- Start date
Fred from MO
Well-Known Member
Just curious, I am now thinking of getting a 953 either to rent for a small job or on a perminant basis. How big in diameter approx of trees are you pushing? Mine are white oaks as well.
Lee-online
Senior Member
Oaks are a tough tree to knock over because of their long tap root. What size are the trees?
Trees
Maybe16 inches at chest high dia. I have seen alot bigger that had been removed with a 953 but didn't see what they had to do to get it done. I'm still interested to know if a ripper will get the side roots better than the bucket or it's not worth the money to rig it all up. LB
Maybe16 inches at chest high dia. I have seen alot bigger that had been removed with a 953 but didn't see what they had to do to get it done. I'm still interested to know if a ripper will get the side roots better than the bucket or it's not worth the money to rig it all up. LB
grandpa
Senior Member
In my opinion a ripper wouldn't help you any,,,, a bucket is still the best way.
CM1995
Administrator
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A ripper on a 953 is well, worthless. Anything you can do with a ripper on a '53 you can do better with the bucket.
I think that is where you need to start. I have an '04 '53 I bought new and put 3K or so hours on it (it's been sitting for a year and a half
). Some might say a '53 is small but it's a powerful machine in a small package IMO.Technique is everything in getting all that a track loader has to offer. Here is my technique for taking down trees with a '53:
First start with going up to the tree about 4-5' above the ground level and give it a push and see what you are up against. If you get lucky, it gives way rather easily and you can see where it's weak spots are.
If it doesn't budge on the first push, reposition and try the other three sides of the tree. If it still doesn't budge, take the bucket and cut on either side (left and right) of where you just tried to push and then try again. At this time you may be able to see from the ground around the root ball, where your resistant roots are. If you can see that, repeat cutting in that area. Then try another push.
If it's a stubborn tree you just have to keep working at it, pushing up on the trunk itself, not down low at ground level, use the leverage of the loader and the tree to help push it down. Although sometimes you just have to keep digging and pushing until you get it over. If you have to dig alot of stubborn roots out, keep at least one side of the 4 "sides" of the tree undisturbed since you will have more mechanical advantage and a stronger safety factor, pushing at ground level rather than trying to push from inside a hole you dug trying to get the roots cut.
A track loader takes some time to get used to and when you get familiar with it's operation, it becomes a swiss army knife of yellow iron.
Scrub Puller
Senior Member
Yair...don't know about track loaders but I know a LOT about pushing trees with a 'dozer. If that little machine can be fitted with (say) a three tine ripper go for it..and for ripping trees drop off the centre tyne and you are good to go.
Have a look at the tree and if it has a slight natural lean always push from from that side, that is to say with the tree leaning towards you.
Lift your blade/bucket full up and then drop it about six inches and give the tree a shove. At the same time lift on the blade/bucket to get some up weight on the tree and weight down on the tracks.
If it rocks a bit flick back into neutral and then up it again a time or two trying to keep in time with the natural rythm of the tree. If it's a sunny day you can sometimes watch the shadow of the tree swaying.
If it starts to go and it's a big tree get back out of there in case the rootball or a root hangs you up.
If it won't go without a rip I usualy rip a triangle on three sides of the tree. Bust out the roots as close to the tree as you can get in order to keep the root ball as small as possible. Give the sucker another shove and rock and if no go start digging on the side you want the tree to fall...in other words you push the tree into the hole as it were.
If that doesn't work build a ramp with dirt you have dug out of the hole so you can get more leverage by pushing higher on the trunk...if that doesn't work you need an excavator or bigger tractor
Have a look at the tree and if it has a slight natural lean always push from from that side, that is to say with the tree leaning towards you.
Lift your blade/bucket full up and then drop it about six inches and give the tree a shove. At the same time lift on the blade/bucket to get some up weight on the tree and weight down on the tracks.
If it rocks a bit flick back into neutral and then up it again a time or two trying to keep in time with the natural rythm of the tree. If it's a sunny day you can sometimes watch the shadow of the tree swaying.
If it starts to go and it's a big tree get back out of there in case the rootball or a root hangs you up.
If it won't go without a rip I usualy rip a triangle on three sides of the tree. Bust out the roots as close to the tree as you can get in order to keep the root ball as small as possible. Give the sucker another shove and rock and if no go start digging on the side you want the tree to fall...in other words you push the tree into the hole as it were.
If that doesn't work build a ramp with dirt you have dug out of the hole so you can get more leverage by pushing higher on the trunk...if that doesn't work you need an excavator or bigger tractor
I have a 953 with a ripper and I agree with the statement that the ripper is worthless. It was on the machine when I bought it. I have used it from time to time but it has never “saved the day”. I would never spend the money to add it to this size machine for the work I do. I’m in Iowa and suspect I do some of the same type work as you on similar trees in similar soil conditions. Ripper will not go deep enough and roots will always be at the wrong angle to hook and rip out.
When I started all I had was the 953 to remove trees. Now I have a track hoe and it’s by far the best and quickest way to tip trees out then stack with the 953.
What I found worked good was to “test” the tree first by pushing on it to see if it will go. Be careful because if you break it you just doubled your work. Then dig three sides of the tree. Leave the side that is the direction you want the tree to go alone. After you dig around the tree push loose dirt back in the hole on the side you want to push from. Ramp it up if you need to so you can push high on the trunk. You may need to run back and forth to pack loose dirt before you start to push. If you cut enough roots tree will hinge on undisturbed side and roll over.
Trouble is it seems like you have to move a lot of dirt to cut the roots because the bucket is so wide. Some times you can pile dirt so the machine is on a slope so you are cutting with just the corner of the bucket. This ends up reducing the size of the hole you have to dig.
This is just what I have found but I’m not the sharpest tool in the shed. I love my 953 and have told my wife to burry me in it when I go.
When I started all I had was the 953 to remove trees. Now I have a track hoe and it’s by far the best and quickest way to tip trees out then stack with the 953.
What I found worked good was to “test” the tree first by pushing on it to see if it will go. Be careful because if you break it you just doubled your work. Then dig three sides of the tree. Leave the side that is the direction you want the tree to go alone. After you dig around the tree push loose dirt back in the hole on the side you want to push from. Ramp it up if you need to so you can push high on the trunk. You may need to run back and forth to pack loose dirt before you start to push. If you cut enough roots tree will hinge on undisturbed side and roll over.
Trouble is it seems like you have to move a lot of dirt to cut the roots because the bucket is so wide. Some times you can pile dirt so the machine is on a slope so you are cutting with just the corner of the bucket. This ends up reducing the size of the hole you have to dig.
This is just what I have found but I’m not the sharpest tool in the shed. I love my 953 and have told my wife to burry me in it when I go.
Monte1255
Senior Member
For land clearing operations my main and only machine is the 953, and even without the ripper I've found it more than adequet for most clearing including oaks, I've taken trees down as big as I would say about 30+ inches with no real wear and tear on the machine. If you have got a leaner, exploit that added weakness in the tree by using the weight of the tree to help topple the tree in question. Sometimes a "get off and look" approach to a tough tree is well worth the time If you have a particulary large tree, before you start scabbing the bark off take a quick look at it to see if there are any irregularities in the bark which could ultimately mean a weakness in the trunk it's self.
There is a lot of disscussion here on HEF regarding leverage, and on this note a track loader can get your push point much higher on the tree, but please do remember that with that bucket high up in the air your center of gravity is also much higher. you will loose stability easier and you will notice that the higher you go the easier it is to lift that 53 right off it's front idlers. A machine sitting on it's sprockets in back with little track on the ground does not have much push, and when that root ball comes out of the ground you are a sitting duck as that tree will fall over faster than you can let the bucket down and reestablish your center of gravity.
Hillsides can work against you and for you, backing up the hillside and using the added weight/push from your machine will help a lot.
On final note, I realize taller grousers on a track loader is a debated subject, but since I've gone with taller dozer pads on my unit, I've been sticking to the hillsides like glue and pushing larger trees rather easily. (with considerations for hydro system in mind of course) this might be something to consider as well.
There is a lot of disscussion here on HEF regarding leverage, and on this note a track loader can get your push point much higher on the tree, but please do remember that with that bucket high up in the air your center of gravity is also much higher. you will loose stability easier and you will notice that the higher you go the easier it is to lift that 53 right off it's front idlers. A machine sitting on it's sprockets in back with little track on the ground does not have much push, and when that root ball comes out of the ground you are a sitting duck as that tree will fall over faster than you can let the bucket down and reestablish your center of gravity.
Hillsides can work against you and for you, backing up the hillside and using the added weight/push from your machine will help a lot.
On final note, I realize taller grousers on a track loader is a debated subject, but since I've gone with taller dozer pads on my unit, I've been sticking to the hillsides like glue and pushing larger trees rather easily. (with considerations for hydro system in mind of course) this might be something to consider as well.
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Burnout
Senior Member
Well I haven't done a lot of tree clearing in my track loading adventures but.. I have removed a few. Some by accident, some on purpose. Rippers on track loaders are pointless, you can't see anything out the back end of the loader for strategic ripping, and its not going to pull like a dozer.
The bucket is your ripper and you'll be amazed at what you can do. I have horsed out a couple biiiiig trees that the 973 wasn't able to topple quickly. What I generally so is jam an outside tooth under the tree if I can, and use my bucket curl to topple it. As much as a track loader will push... it can curl soooooooo much more. Also grabbing under the tree with a corner tooth, then pushing will yield the results you desire. With the downpressure on the bucket you can push more and it gets the weight off the drives which helps it push harder.
The bucket is your ripper and you'll be amazed at what you can do. I have horsed out a couple biiiiig trees that the 973 wasn't able to topple quickly. What I generally so is jam an outside tooth under the tree if I can, and use my bucket curl to topple it. As much as a track loader will push... it can curl soooooooo much more. Also grabbing under the tree with a corner tooth, then pushing will yield the results you desire. With the downpressure on the bucket you can push more and it gets the weight off the drives which helps it push harder.