Volvo EC210BLC Crank no start

[EliteEquipmentRepair]

SN: ec210v15998
I am having a crank no start issue with this machine. Key on the machine has a code on the display of 140 SID 231-9
When i look up this code it was I-ECU not communicating i believe (havent been to it in 4 weeks and its 3 hours away) during my trouble shooting i checked the data link wires. Can H had 3v and L had 2.5. Resistance between them was 60ohm. Checked this at the plug into the back of the I-ECU unit. When i unplug the I-ECU resistance goes to 120. Plug it back in and unplug the engine ecu resistance goes to 120 as well. So data link wires appear to be good. Checked power and ground at the I-ECU and they were good. Determined the I-ECU was bad. Given that this is a 3K dollar unit the customer decided to try an amazon special with the same volvo part number (VOE14527149) When he got this part in and plugged it in the code was gone, display lights up BUT there is still a crank no start issue on the machine. Dealer says this is a plug and play unit. Ive been told that all new ECUs have to be programmed. Does anyone have any insight one way or another on that? Will this display not communicating cause a crank no start issue or am i looking at something else? I have not been back to the machine since troubleshooting it and am trying to get as much information as i can before going back down there

 

[BigWrench55]

You say in one sentence that this is a Amazon special. And in another sentence you speak as if you purchased this from the dealer. Either way if it didn't come from the dealer then it is not programmed. And they are not usually programmed when you buy them from the dealer. It can be done but isn't common practice. These are programmed to be machine specific. And in some cases you have to install it and tell Volvo which unit was installed. Give a part number and serial number the control unit to be installed and programmed. This is usually done on the machine at the customer site or in the field.

 

[BigWrench55]

The machine should crank and run without the I-ecu. You probably have two separate issues.

 

[EliteEquipmentRepair]

yea, sorry. That can be misleading. It is an amazon unit with the volvo part number. The dealer says the unit they would sell me is plug and play and that it needs no programming. As in it comes in the box ready to go. But if it should crank and run without the I-ecu then i have other things to worry about. The machine ran fine when they parked it. 2 Months later they went to start it and it would only crank.

 

[farmerlund]

does it have a picture of the ecu and engine with an red X on the display? There is a box on the front of the fuel tank, under the plastic cover, that has a bunch of relays in it. some times the one for the computer quits. just swap it with another one to see if it works.

 

[BigWrench55]

Why not have the dealer come out and program the unit you already have and diagnose the no start issue. Or at least give you all of the codes.

 

[Mike85]

Sorry to ask but fuel didn’t bleed back while sitting or something simple?

 

[BigWrench55]

The B series have a different display and it wouldn't show the ecu failure like that.

 

[EliteEquipmentRepair]

mike85, a fuel issue is not out of the question. I was trouble shooting the code thinking that would be the issue. This machine is 3 hours away from me and i have not been able to get back to it. He ordered the parts and installed it himself to see if it would fix it. Now that it hasnt im trying to gather more information.
Paul- He doesnt want to pay a dealer the outrageous price of $3,000 he was quoted for them to even show up. I can do a lot of troubleshooting for that price. And after talking to them about the issue he has little to no faith in their service department. I will soon have the ability to hook up to it myself and have the service manual. Just trying to gather any information i can that is volvo specific. Volvo is one of the few brands i dont have much experience with

 

[funwithfuel]

First, the I-ECU was not the problem, it was reporting that it had no communication. 231-9 indicates no comms as you tested for. The thing that's missing is 187 and 128. We know that since it displayed 140-231-9 that you have the LCD display. Does the fuel gauge show an accurate level vs the sight gauge on the tank?
Farmerlund is on to something. Above the batteries, ahead of the fuel tank is a 4 bolt plastic cover protecting the relay box. Remove the 10mm cover screws carefully. The guts may have shaken apart. The screws like to fall out. Relays for EMS and data like to crap out from heat. I always suggest swapping with horn and high speed travel. (Neighbors)
Just beneath the relay box are several oblong harness connectors. Check for corrosion and broken wires. Finally, check harness wherever you can access for rodent damage. You might be running a tenement for mice.

 

[EliteEquipmentRepair]

These are the pictures he sent me the other day when he plugged in the new one. The old display only shows the code. The new display lights up like a Christmas tree and the gauges work, although im not sure they are accurate.

 

[funwithfuel]

So does it still display 140-231-9?

 

[EliteEquipmentRepair]

So does it still display 140-231-9?

The new one does not. When you plug the old one in it does. Ive been told that its because the new one has to be programmed for that machine but the dealer i called to get the part number says it does not. So getting some conflicting information

 

[funwithfuel]

Typically, 140 has to be programmed to the machine. Conversion kits have to be ran for updated hardware blah, blah blah. I know there are some European companies knocking out "will work" units. It doesn't say no data, so that says it has software in it. It's going to be difficult without being able to see the network.