Volvo L90D hard starting

[JakeHarrington]

hi guys i have a 2000 L90d that only wants to start when it is ice cold. but even then it takes about 8 seconds of cranking until u feel a "bump" in the throttle pedal.
once warn the machine will not start at all with out ether. if you crank with no ether then it will just crank forever, no smoke what so ever out of the pipe. I'm talking only a tiny blast and she goes right off. but once again you get that little bump in the throttle.
the machine has been doing this for actually about 5 years and i just can't take it any. we use it all day and never shut it off for 15 years straight now and we had never had a single problem besides this hard warm start problem. any ideas what can be going on. i always fix and maintain my own equipment but i went to the dealer for this one finally and the dealer is useless so far.
my gut feeling is the motor is getting no fuel because there is no smoke. i also feel like it has to be fuel pump related because i feel the bump in the throttle. its also most like the governor is holding back the rack and the ether spins the motor just fast enough to knock the rack open.

let me know what you guys think.
thanks in advance

 

[thepumpguysc]

No sense in blaming the fuel system until the compression has been checked..
Even IF IT WAS getting fuel, it wouldn't start w/o compression..
Dealer should charge you about 2-3 hrs labor for a compr. check.
An experienced back yard mechanic would charge 1 hr..
Get that done and I will help w/ the fuel system..

 

[JakeHarrington]

i will work on getting the compression check done as soon as possible.

 

[JakeHarrington]

i had the Volvo guys come today with the service truck and they did the compression test they said the compression was great. so no problems there.

they really didn't have much to say about my hard starts. so do you guys have any thoughts.

i tried all the basics. new fuel lines and hand primer and lift pump. i made sure that the solenoid that shuts down the rack was in adjustment and actually opened the rack all the way. still the same issues.

 

[walkerv]

No sense in blaming the fuel system until the compression has been checked..
Even IF IT WAS getting fuel, it wouldn't start w/o compression..
Dealer should charge you about 2-3 hrs labor for a compr. check.
An experienced back yard mechanic would charge 1 hr..
Get that done and I will help w/ the fuel system..

pump guy couldnt he try the ole when the engine is hot no start cummins trick and poor cold water over the injection pump to cool it off and see if it will start which would point the finger directly at the pump ?

 

[thepumpguysc]

That's the bosch inline pump correct?? It sounds like in the first description about " the bump"..
That the rack isn't going to start position..
Another thing to check would be the overflow valve.. very common for the spring to break.
The ov.flo valve is opposite the fuel inlet on the inj. pump.. just unscrew it and check the spring..
You can usually just poke it w/ a small scribe to feel if there is tension on the ball OR shake it and listen for rattles.
Also you can loosen the lines going to the injectors to make sure its pumping fuel TO THE INJECTORS when your cranking the engine.

 

[JakeHarrington]

i have no idea what type of pump this is but yes its inline with 6 barrels and plungers all going to different fuel lines and injectors.
what you are saying with the bump and the rack position is what i was thinking but I'm not sure how all that works.

over flow valve is in the same port as the return to the tank and acts almost like a pressure regulated for the pump?

i will definitely try the cracking the injectors once it get nice and hot.

another thing. if really hot and you shut it off and you go to restart the machine you have about 20-30sec where it will fire right off exactly like when cold. you still experience the bump in the throttle. this leads me to wonder if it could related to maybe oil pressure dropping down when the machine heats up?

 

[thepumpguysc]

Any chance in posting a picture of the pump?
You could send it to my home email at, a o l . c o m
Yes the ovflo valve acts like a pressure regulator..
it holds NO LESS than 25psi in the fuel gallery on the pump..
When you start the machine, are you holding the throttle to the floor.?? You SHOULD BE..
Is the shut off, by pull cable or w/ the key switch??
You could plumb a pressure guage into the return side on the pump..

 

[JakeHarrington]

i will post a picture as soon as i make it over to the machine.it might be a few days.

yes the pedal is to the floor. it won't go unless the pedal is to the floor.

shut off by key switch. its an electric solenoid connected to a cable that moves second lever of the the pump.

looks like i might be installing a pressure gauge this weekend.

 

[thepumpguysc]

Disconnect the solenoid cable from the shut off lever just to make sure the shut off lever is COMPLETELY out of the way of the cranking circuit.
Don't forget, you'll have to shut it off by hand after checking it out..
I like to mark/scratch the lever to the housing, before and after disconnecting/connecting the cable, just as a reference to see if its completely out of the way after reconnecting.

 

[JakeHarrington]

alright i the shut off lever is definitely in the proper position at all time. i had it held down in the run position with a bungee cord and still the same issues. i repositioned the solenoid cable just to make it perfect. so that is all fine.
i couldn't set up a pressure gauge because i need to get more of these banjo fittings to plumb it up right.

i took apart the overflow valve and it looks good to me but that really doesn't mean much ahaha. once i get the right fitting we will know for sure.

I'm going to try to attach some pictures. hopefully they are sent.

if you look at the picture of the entire pump you will see that by the throttle lever i leak motor oil. not fuel. Is this a big deal? its really like a slight ooze when hot. nothing much though.

 

[thepumpguysc]

NO, no big deal..
Look at the top of the governor.. You see the 2 big allen head screws?
Remove the 1 closest to the injector lines.. I think its an 10mm.. I know the back one is 8mm
Its gonna be TIGHT.. just give it a couple of raps w/ a brass drift or hammer 1st..
Remove the plug and hold the throttle wide open..
You'll see a bracket w/a screw and nut.. that screw goes thru the bracket and hits another bracket, underneath it, to keep it out of excess fuel.. AFTER STARTING..
keeping the throttle wide open, have someone crank the engine.. the bracket w/ the screw SHOULD go forward towards the pump and come back when you bring the throttle back to idle, and stay there..
TRY THAT and get back to me.. I'll tell you how to adjust it..

 

[JakeHarrington]

after greatly he appreciated help from thepumpguysc we got the machine starting up like she is brand new. this gentleman knows his pumps. he directed me perfectly on how to adjust the governor to adjust the fuel starting delivery.

 

[thepumpguysc]

Glad to help Jake..
And thank you, for following the directions..
Good thing you didn't condem the fuel system without trying to adjust it first..
You saved yourself OVER 1000.00 and that DOESNT include pulling it off and putting it back on..
Happy tractoring.. TPG

 

[axhandle]

NO, no big deal..
Look at the top of the governor.. You see the 2 big allen head screws?
Remove the 1 closest to the injector lines.. I think its an 10mm.. I know the back one is 8mm
Its gonna be TIGHT.. just give it a couple of raps w/ a brass drift or hammer 1st..
Remove the plug and hold the throttle wide open..
You'll see a bracket w/a screw and nut.. that screw goes thru the bracket and hits another bracket, underneath it, to keep it out of excess fuel.. AFTER STARTING..
keeping the throttle wide open, have someone crank the engine.. the bracket w/ the screw SHOULD go forward towards the pump and come back when you bring the throttle back to idle, and stay there..
TRY THAT and get back to me.. I'll tell you how to adjust it..

I n

NO, no big deal..
Look at the top of the governor.. You see the 2 big allen head screws?
Remove the 1 closest to the injector lines.. I think its an 10mm.. I know the back one is 8mm
Its gonna be TIGHT.. just give it a couple of raps w/ a brass drift or hammer 1st..
Remove the plug and hold the throttle wide open..
You'll see a bracket w/a screw and nut.. that screw goes thru the bracket and hits another bracket, underneath it, to keep it out of excess fuel.. AFTER STARTING..
keeping the throttle wide open, have someone crank the engine.. the bracket w/ the screw SHOULD go forward towards the pump and come back when you bring the throttle back to idle, and stay there..
TRY THAT and get back to me.. I'll tell you how to adjust it..

I need to know how to adjust this bar?? Same pump, same machine!!