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Wabco 111A trouble

F

frankderrico

Member
Joined
May 2, 2009
Messages
21
Location
wisconsin
:(Good morning 25c. Yesturday was a bummer, I fabricated a wrench for the axle nut. but it failed to work. Today its back to the bench to try again but hey you learn from your mistakes. Its a good thing I'm not busy right now. I'm planning to move dirt in a couple of more weeks. All of my other equipment is ready to go. About a year after I bought the Wabco I was looking at a dozer at the dealer who had sold the 111A to the man I bought it from. We got to talking and he sad they had a big box of parts and tools that came with the machine that he wanted $100.00 for and the man I bought it from didn't want them! I said I would buy them, they looked all over but could not find them. I could use them now. Well I'm out to the shop, thank you for your help and sharing your shop manual.....Frank:usa
 
F

frankderrico

Member
Joined
May 2, 2009
Messages
21
Location
wisconsin
DAEXCO, do you want to sell the machine or are you going to part it out? I like Case to, have an 1150E LGP LT with full cab. When I sized down I kept it and sold my D8H and straight 1150. I have a CAT 930 wheel loader that I like alot. and a 3208 CAT in a dump truck that I can always count on.....Frank:)
 
dayexco

dayexco

Senior Member
Joined
May 21, 2005
Messages
1,224
Location
south dakota
frankderrico said:
DAEXCO, do you want to sell the machine or are you going to part it out? I like Case to, have an 1150E LGP LT with full cab. When I sized down I kept it and sold my D8H and straight 1150. I have a CAT 930 wheel loader that I like alot. and a 3208 CAT in a dump truck that I can always count on.....Frank:)
Click to expand...

i want to sell the whole machine, not parts off of it. 2 yrs ago when parked because of trans problems, the detroit ran great. tranny's out. you send a truck, we'll help load, $2k. let me know if you want some more pics of it.
 
scraperboy222

scraperboy222

Active Member
Joined
Feb 10, 2009
Messages
41
Location
australia
Occupation
operator/trainer
Gday Frank looks like you have got plenty of good advice i have been fishing so sorry to take so long to reply there are days we all wish we had longer or double jointed arms fingers etc there are some twisted persons that design some of these assemblies looks like your on the right track.

cheers

Bevan
 
F

frankderrico

Member
Joined
May 2, 2009
Messages
21
Location
wisconsin
scrapperboy222, thanks for the encourgement,:) I can use it. I'm doing this job mostly by myself and it is not easy. My son is coming over today so I can help him replace a leaf spring on one of his semi trailers. I'll get him to help me pull the axle. Does any one have a parts book for the 111A's? Part #'s for the axle bearings and races and seals would help. Thanks.....Frank:usa
 
D

Dickerson Bros

Member
Joined
May 16, 2009
Messages
5
Location
Virginia
You may need to pull the cockpit to do it. Working from the bottom is really hard. Be glad it is not the left, it is almost undoable. You can actually loosen the cockpit and jack it up from the back to get clearance to get inside. Those two axles are the second hardest thing to fix. Brushes in the gen were my hardest. If you ever need help contact me there isn't anything I havent done with one of these over the past 30 years. normand43@verizon.net I also have parts available.
 
F

frankderrico

Member
Joined
May 2, 2009
Messages
21
Location
wisconsin
Dickerson Bros, thanks Ill try that. I looked at that possibility a couple of times and thought it might be the way. How far do you jack up the cockpit? Is there enough play in the wiring, hoses, etc.....Frank
 
D

Dickerson Bros

Member
Joined
May 16, 2009
Messages
5
Location
Virginia
111-a

Take your hood off. Then when you jack, the cockpit will raise in the back and the front part will slide back. You will need to take the wires off of the transformer pack and loosen the pack so it will come up with the cockpit. Check to see if you can take the cable holders loose, this may save you from taking the transformer out. You need to loosen your air line and gear shift take apart. Block the cockpit because it will slide and it is heavy and it will hurt. ou may need a come along to help protect you or a chain. If you don't have the proper tools, you will ruin the nut. Sometines that nut needs heat to loosen. Try to find the corrwect wrenches. When you put it back together you will need those wrenches to set the torque that preloads the bearings. If the bearings were extremely loose ypu may have a broken axel. Pug a magnet on the shaft if everything is cleaned real good and slowly pour metal filings or dust at the flange and shaft connection. If the dust lines up in several places it is indicating a crack. That is what those axel shafts do and then break. I used to hot rod the turns loaded and I have replaced a few of them totally by myself, but I was young and didn't mind. I have crawled from one end to and through and around to the other. If you are a contortionist it helps. Where are you located? I have 6 of those machines I would be happy to sell and parts and tools. Good luck
 
D

Dickerson Bros

Member
Joined
May 16, 2009
Messages
5
Location
Virginia
Take your hood off. Then when you jack, the cockpit will raise in the back and the front part will slide back. You will need to take the wires off of the transformer pack and loosen the pack so it will come up with the cockpit. Check to see if you can take the cable holders loose, this may save you from taking the transformer out. You need to loosen your air line and gear shift take apart. Block the cockpit because it will slide and it is heavy and it will hurt. You may need a come along to help protect you or a chain. If you don't have the proper tools, you will ruin the nut. Sometines that nut needs heat to loosen. Try to find the corrwect wrenches. When you put it back together you will need those wrenches to set the torque that preloads the bearings. If the bearings were extremely loose ypu may have a broken axel. Pug a magnet on the shaft if everything is cleaned real good and slowly pour metal filings or dust at the flange and shaft connection. If the dust lines up in several places it is indicating a crack. That is what those axel shafts do and then break. I used to hot rod the turns loaded and I have replaced a few of them totally by myself, but I was young and didn't mind. I have crawled from one end to and through and around to the other. If you are a contortionist it helps. Where are you located? I have 6 of those machines I would be happy to sell and parts and tools. Good luck
 
F

frankderrico

Member
Joined
May 2, 2009
Messages
21
Location
wisconsin
Thanks for the advice Dickerson Bros., I'll give it a try. You know your WABCO'S, when I get the axle out I know I'm going to need bearings and races and seals, do you know the part #'s? I'm located in central Wisconsin, my son is a trucker and gets all over, maybe if we need some parts or tools he could book a load your way and stop by. Were are you located? TIA.....Frank:usa
 
D

Dickerson Bros

Member
Joined
May 16, 2009
Messages
5
Location
Virginia
I'm in Virginia just south of I-95 and rt17 interchange, place called Spotsylvania. I am having my books brought to me so I can get you those numbers.
 
M

manish

Member
Joined
Jan 26, 2008
Messages
8
Location
india
wabco parts

frankderrico said:
can someone please give some advice? My wabco 111a lost a bearing and seal on the right axle. It seems like the only accses is throuth the plate on the back, but there is no room and i can not figure out how to get the big round gear off the axle and get the axle out to replace the bearings and seals.:beatsme tia.....frank
Click to expand...

hello frank,

the part # are as per below:

1. Oilseal # sf2848
2. Race # h-5029
3. Roller bearing # h5028

also i can help you with new parts , you can avail the same from me.
 
Showpony

Showpony

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 29, 2009
Messages
193
Location
Canterbury New Zealand
Hi Frank
Its been a while since I have been into a 111a rear end, we used to remove the diesel tank to get at the inner axle bearing retaining nut, while you have the rear end apart it is good practice to crack test the bull gears and pinions, do not get to concerned over chipping on the crowns of the teeth, it is cracks at the root that will let you down, if you have chipping on the bull gear and/or pinions, a mod we did was to weld a re-enforcing plate across the fuel tank cavity, the rear axle housings flex on 111as and cause premature pinion and bull gear failure, an 8mm plate will stop this happening. If you need to get back in you will have to cut it out, a sure sign of flexing is oil weaping around the fuel tank flange and/or the final drive covers. Swapping bull gears & pinions from left to right side of the machine after around 10000 hrs helps as well. Another tip is if you are removing the park brake retaining nut to remove the left side pinion, put the wench on the nut. lodge the wrench against the frame and run the transmission in reverse to unwind the nut, this will save 3-4 hours of fustration. reverse this proceedure to install, about 1200 rpm in 1st gear will give you about the right torque. make sure you set the 4 brace screws in the final drive housings before you set up your bearing preloads. Do not attempt to undo any of the splined nuts without the genuine wrenches, I bet Dickersons will have the manuals and tools you need.
good luck.
 
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