DMiller
Senior Member
I seem to have started a Rumble!!!
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Working the National 1300A
- Thread starter Natman
- Start date
skyking1
Senior Member
the cut line is not the problem. Either they hung the track above wrong, or that old floor is really out of level. My bet is the floor is needing jacked and he cut it to keep the level hung door equal distance. any old level would tell that tale.
crane operator
Senior Member
The old floor is all out of level, its actually tradesman's picture from a remodel job he did years ago. He didn't have any choice on the job, except make the worst of a bad situation. If you look through his pictures, they do some beautiful work.
I however shouldn't be allowed anywhere near finish carpentry work.
skyking1
Senior Member
hehe 
I enjoy it myself. I have pictures of the kitchen I did here, but thankfully did not have to deal with much out of square or level conditions. They can be extremely trying. Sometimes you fudge grout lines on tile to fix out of square rooms. There is always some way or another to fool the eye.
I enjoy it myself. I have pictures of the kitchen I did here, but thankfully did not have to deal with much out of square or level conditions. They can be extremely trying. Sometimes you fudge grout lines on tile to fix out of square rooms. There is always some way or another to fool the eye.
DMiller
Senior Member
I have moments Wrench bending, wood butchering, iron smoking, farm mutilation and meats burning where have a good time at all but any attempts are generally practices in futility and self punishment.
- Speaking of doors, I have a 3'0" man door framed in to my big hydraulic hangar door, (an unusual deal, in my defense) and in the last 15 years since I installed it it very gradually sagged a bit, enough for the latch to not fully engage. I realized this, always making sure it was latched before raising the big door into the horizontal position, and put it on my list of minor homeowner types things to do when I got around to it. It never occurred to me that it could fall open when I was pushing the plane under the big door, until I landed one day (I leave the 36' hangar door open if I'm coming back in an hour or two) and saw it had opened itself. LUCKILY not while I had the plane underneath, fabric airplanes are tough where it counts, structurally, but a steel insulated door slamming down on it would require some major fabric work, plus no doubt some rib replacement, re-painting etc., and be an all around huge PITA. The door is working properly now, plus, as a backup I have a dead bolt I also engage whenever the big door is raised. With 3000 hours of off airport mountain flying without a scratch (a few on the wingtips, that doesn't count...) or any damage to the wings, and that door almost got me. It'd be like wrecking the National by not putting the parking brakes on, I dodged a bullet.
Toolslinger
Active Member
Amazing what time and a heavy door will do...
I had to replace the hinges on the door to my folks garage a couple years ago. It was a heavy steel door, and my father had made it worse by adding 1" thick barn siding planks to it. That door was always a bit of a pain, but after 45+ years, it had managed to wear down the barrels of the hinges almost 50% so the strike didn't catch any more.
3 New hinges, and the door was ready for the next 40+ years... Sold the house in March, I'm sure it is in the dumpster by now...
I had to replace the hinges on the door to my folks garage a couple years ago. It was a heavy steel door, and my father had made it worse by adding 1" thick barn siding planks to it. That door was always a bit of a pain, but after 45+ years, it had managed to wear down the barrels of the hinges almost 50% so the strike didn't catch any more.
3 New hinges, and the door was ready for the next 40+ years... Sold the house in March, I'm sure it is in the dumpster by now...
The rare job, where the load weighed LESS than I was told, fiberglas fuel tanks for my school district headquarters. I got a tour of the entire facility, 84 buses, food prep area etc., etc., good to see where my property tax money goes. Looked at the front view mirrors on the buses, and then simply bought another camera for my existing back up camera system, small enough to hose clamp it to my driver side mirrow, took about 2 minutes to install, no more right front blind spot. MORE 4 plexes, this town, besides all the big custom houses, is going crazy for 4 plexes, guess they pencil out the best for the money boys. Then a super insulated custom home, 1.5" foam bonded to the OSB, 2x8 LVL studs,, lastly another 2x4 inside wall. This house will be so tight, if the dog farts you'ff smell it a week later, they will probably have an air to air heat exchanger, which I understand is the in thing on super tight houses.
DMiller
Senior Member
Cities of St Louis and many of its original burbs had loads of four plexes, we call them Quads here and date into late 1800s. Row houses all looked alike except a main entry door gable or small porch change, lost favor in the early 1900s to full scale single family homes and became our minority housing regions. Almost all are brick as STL was a brick capital for forever, clay is everywhere.
A very intermittent thing seems to be getting worse, my boom wants to retract....just a 1/4" at most or so at a time, felt as a small bump in the op cab, too small to see, no one notices but me. Of course after a few minutes I need to winch up to hold the load, cycling the extend and retract functions a few times seems to be the way to stop it, once stopped I can work all day with no problem, more of an initial thing. No leaks anywhere, I suppose the issue is the holding valve, but I have no idea where that is or if there is even such a thing, I've just heard the term somewhere. I'd like to think its some small, cheap, and easy to get at valve (right...) than something requring pulling the boom apart to get at the main boom extention cylinder.
DMiller
Senior Member
Perhaps receiving a stray signal?
Hope not, next time I'll try changing the sat radio station and see if that makes a difference! I had a short notice job today unloading a trailer loaded with concrete forms, and it didn't do it. Seems to only do it with very little weight, and even then, rarely.
skyking1
Senior Member
look after that. I had the packing on my boom truck let go during a pick. I left it boomed up high to see what was up and it retracted ~20 feet over lunch. I'd do the same thing, stick it all out and boom it up steep and measure it after an hour. If it is the packing, you won't like what happens next so don't delay figuring it out.
I had an hour between jobs this morning so I got the ebike dingy out and rode over to our highly regarded local hydraulic shop. Running redlights and stops signs, traffic permitting, way more fun and quicker than the Mack, no diesel used also. Told the symptoms, the hyd. guy said "rod packing going out, and/or maybe water in the hyd fluid, water being more able to get around the seals. When I mentioned a check valve, he just looked at me....don't know where I got that concept from! He told me to check for water, (last Blackstone Labs report showed none) other than that, keep working it. Two setups today, worked perfect, officially on the back burner.
skyking1
Senior Member
Nice to have a dingy on the deck. I delivered the sweeper and boom truck several times with my bike on the deck, and rode off to catch the train home.
crane operator
Senior Member
It won't be water in it. Its possible that its the check valve, but in my experience its usually the piston seals.
Is this a cold weather thing? Your hyd. oil coming from the tank is 200 degrees. It will cool to outside temp as it sets. In cold weather you can see up to a couple inches of tip creep inward just as the oil cools.
The check valve should be right on the bottom of the telecylinder. You could try a new one- you don't have to pull boom to swap them.
You will have to pull boom if its the piston seals. Better get that 2nd crane bought so you have something to pull boom with.
Is this a cold weather thing? Your hyd. oil coming from the tank is 200 degrees. It will cool to outside temp as it sets. In cold weather you can see up to a couple inches of tip creep inward just as the oil cools.
The check valve should be right on the bottom of the telecylinder. You could try a new one- you don't have to pull boom to swap them.
You will have to pull boom if its the piston seals. Better get that 2nd crane bought so you have something to pull boom with.
Better yet, it's completely concealed in it's own custom weather tight storage box, in otherwise wasted space between the truck cab and hyd. tank. Having it out of view makes it more fun, when I pull it out and ride off 30 seconds later, at 30 mph.
It won't be water in it. Its possible that its the check valve, but in my experience its usually the piston seals.
Is this a cold weather thing? Your hyd. oil coming from the tank is 200 degrees. It will cool to outside temp as it sets. In cold weather you can see up to a couple inches of tip creep inward just as the oil cools.
The check valve should be right on the bottom of the telecylinder. You could try a new one- you don't have to pull boom to swap them.
You will have to pull boom if its the piston seals. Better get that 2nd crane bought so you have something to pull boom with.
I'll look for that check valve, and see if I can get one coming. With just the one rig, when I breakdown it's the missed work that really costs, for sure. 5 jobs today...., but it's not doing it now and may not for a few months. I hate these intermittent type of issues that come and go, on any piece of equipment, much harder to trouble shoot.
It was easy enough to find, this sure looks like a "holding valve-complete assembly", as it's called in the parts book, to me. One rebuild kit, on its way. Thanks for the heads up CO. Didn't do it once yesterday, on 5 different setups.
