1998 INTERNATIONAL 4700 + DT466 wiring diagram needed

[truckerben]

Hello all,

I'm looking for a copy of the wiring diagram for a 1998 international 4700 with a DT466. I am under the impression that many diagrams from years earlier will also be the same or very similar (same ECM if I'm not mistaken) and will help me troubleshoot my truck, but any later than 1998 probably will be different. DT466E versions will also be different and not helpful in my case. I managed to find the diagrams for a 98' DT466E but not just the 466.

Let me know if you can help.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Ros$]

think i have one at work will check tomorrow

 

[Ros$]

This is what i could come up with hope it helps.

 

[mekanik]

Can you post the last eight of the VIN.

 

[truckerben]

Thank you for sharing this Ros$, I will have a look and see if this matches up with my truck, this one states that it's for the DT466E, mine is just DT466. I haven't sorted out whether or not there are differences.

Mekanik, I'll check for the VIN and get back to you asap.

Thanks for your help.

 

[truckerben]

Last 8 digits are: WH533244

 

[mekanik]

This is the engine according to the VIN: International:
DT 466E HEUI INT DSL 230HP/2300RPM 50 State 230 HP @ 2300 RPM, 605 lb-ft Torque @ 1500 RPM, 2500 RPM Governed Speed.

The above diagram should be correct.
What problem are you troubleshooting?
Terry

 

[truckerben]

Mekanik, thank you for this VIN info. Here are some pictures just incase this helps you confirm your findings:




I am diagnosing a crank, no start problem. The truck is not giving any codes with the manual diagnosis button. An onsite mechanic was unable to retrieve codes with a computer, either. We checked all the grounds to the chassis and they all were good. We have not load tested wires or verified that the ECM is getting power yet, that will be this Sunday. We changed the cam position sensor.

Sunday I will check the relays to the ECM and the fuses in the battery tray. I will check any sensors for oil infiltration or bad connections. I will try to verify that the ECM is getting power.

Let me know if there are any other good tests I can perform on Sunday to help me narrow down this issue.

 

[mekanik]

There is a "Clean Power Harness that supplies power to the engine ECM from the batteries.
It has a fuse in it in the battery box. It connects to the batteries and to the ECM. Unhook it from
the batteries and inspect if for breaks and corrosion. If you ca't retrieve codes the ECM may
not be getting power.

 

[truckerben]

Went out to the truck over the weekend and followed all of your advice so far:

I decided to start at the source with the batteries. Started checking all the fuses in the battery box and checking that the fuse sockets were clean and conducting to the mounting rungs. traced each connection to its destination at the battery and noted the wires heading into the 'clean power harness'. Inspected the wires heading over to the harness and..... THERE IT WAS! A hole in the wire insulation revealing a totally dusty green interior that no longer contained any copper in that section due to extreme corrosion.

The only reason why the truck was cranking was because a previous on-site mechanic had 'rewired the starter' because we thought the starter wiring was damaged. What he had actually done was wire up a band-aid fix that connected the starter to the switch directly from the battery, bypassing the crank relay etc..

With the clean power wires repaired I was able to pull codes from the ECM via the manual diagnosis button. Here's what I got:

111 [ECM GOOD]//
224 [KAM PWR, KAM CORRUPT]/
615 [PROGRAMMABLE KAM CORRUPT FAULT]/
//

A week or so ago we replaced the cam position sensor thinking that was the problem when we began trying to fix this truck. We were unable to check codes at that time due to the broken wire, but I was just guessing that the cam sensor may have failed because that seems to be pretty common.

I cleared the codes and got no new codes after cranking, just:
111 /// (three blinks at the end from the code-separator indicator)

But it still didn't start because (we think) that same onsite mechanic replaced the fuel filter and didn't fill it with diesel before putting it in because we had none on hand and no tube to syphon some. He said, "you have a bleed pump, you'll be fine". When we tried to bleed it yesterday we were unable to get consistent spurting out of the purge valve. At some point we weren't able to get any more spurting from the purge valve. We're pretty sure the fuel system is not delivering because of this and that's our only problem now. We ran out of time and will try to figure out how to bleed that system as well as put some fuel into the new filter. Maybe we're in the clear.

Any thoughts are very welcomed.

Thanks everyone for the insight and assistance. The diagrams were correct, the VIN lookup you did was accurate. Much appreciated.

 

[mekanik]

Does it have a priming pump at the filter head? There should be a Schrader valve there as well.
Remove the cap and hold the valve open with a small screwdriver or pick and pump the primer pump until fuel squirts
out then remove the object holding the schrader vale open and keep pumping until the primer
pump starts to get harder to pump. Crank a few times 20 seconds max letting the starter cool
between cranking and it should fire up. The check ball in the filter head is prone to not sealing
after a few years and if that happens then the primer pump will not draw fuel and build pressure.
The check ball is item 4 in the attached pic the Schrader valve is item 9.
The check ball is easy to replace if its shot.

Terry

 

[truckerben]

We worked on this and with the help of a friend, tried to prime the system by disconnecting the injectors and pumping until everything seemed primed. There was a lot of air in the system. Still couldn't get it to start. We were stumped.

We checked for codes again and got 622 - VPM Engine using Field Default rating

Any thoughts?

Thank you!

 

[mekanik]

Give the individual wires at the cam sensor the ten pound pull test. There is/was a small metal clip on the harness that stops the wires from vibrating and shaking from the air from the fan. If its not clipped to the bracket the wires can break inside the insulation.
Can you connect the laptop and see what the injection control pressure is? Alternatively you can tee into the fitting I marked in the picture with a 4000 PSI gauge and see what the pressure is when cranking the engine. It needs over 800 PSI to start.

 

[mekanik]

Does it show oil pressure on the gauge when cranking?